blind_elk

So, what rpm does it idle at? Have you checked the ECU temperature sender? Have you adjusted the idle speed with the AAC valve? You haven't had the inlet manifold off recently, have you? Have you checked for air leaks?

This question has been done to death on this forum. SEARCH!

How old is the battery? Just because the battery can start the car, the ECU might not like the available voltage and amperage.

The component is the cold start valve. Basically bleeds air when cold, until a bi-metal strip closes a "gate" inside the centre bit. Strip is heated by power through the connector on the underside. This problem is with my old dizzy? Try adjusting the timing a bit. spec is 10 BTDC @ 750 rpm in "N"

How can that help? It's a high air pressure region at the base of the windscreen. How else do you think you get air in through the heater vents. Or how those "reverse scoop" bonnets worked on old-school Falcons and Commodores? All you will do is push air into the engine bay. Then you will have overheating problems because there is no pressure differential to allow cool air to come in through the radiator.Back to the original problem - it's an engine making lots of power, of course it's going to generate some heat.

They're the same body! Just the cheaper one doesn't have a turbo.Don't be so impatient, grasshopper. Please don't tell anyone that you will behave yourself, and you will know how to drive the car sensibly, and you will be capable of handling the power. Several of your peers in Victoria thought that too, and look how it turned out for them and their friends.

I didn't say you did. It's in the OP by GODZLR.BTW - I'm not a DUDE.

Blowby has nothing to do with spark plugs. Duty cycle has nothing to do with the type of fuel pump or FPR. High compression motor running a turbo - standby for detonation.

You can never have too flow away from the turbo. If the wastegate is partially open, that should reduce the max boost, because some of the exhaust gas is by-passing the turbine wheel (which is how the controller limits boost). You could have the wrong wastegate controller - actuator arm too long. Do you have an aftermarket boost controller? Where does the wastegate controller get its boost signal from?

I've done it with a pre-Neo Stagea engine. You will need to: 1. replace the spiggot bearing in the back of the crankshaft. 2. fit a flywheel and clutch assembly. 3. retain the R32 P/S pump (for HICAS). Other than that, the engine should be a straight bolt in.

"Hoons" have been doing wheel spinning since long before this ad ever came along. And they will continue to do wheel spins long after the ad has faded away. Some people need to get a life.

It's a common problem, if you care to SEARCH.

Have you checked the dimmer control?

Get the photos. If there is more than 1 vehicle in the photo, you should have reasonable grounds to dispute the fines.

If you had a turbo, I'd be suggesting detonation. I suppose it still could be. It could also be piston slap - cylinder has gone a bit "oval", so piston doesn't "fit" properly.

So, you let someone else drive like a maniac in your car while you weren't around to stop them?

Anyone know anything about SQL Server? Is it like Oracle RDBMS, or is there a lot more in it, like .NET, VB, etc. I'm thinking of applying for a job at my local council.

Knew it couldn't have been you. Anyone who wins that much money, then tells the world about is in serious need of a psychiatrist.

If you order a set to suit the 1990 R32 GTSt, they will be the correct size. Check out the correct part number at the dba website.

The autos come with 4.08:1 (well, that's the gearing that came with the Stagea engine I dropped into my R32 GTS4). R32 GTS4 is 4.375:1It's probably simpler with the front diff, to just replace the diff itself, rather than the whole sump. And I found that the rear diff is a slightly different shape, so I swapped the internals into the existing diff casing.

shouldn't be necessary. Just point them at the crash we had here (Melbourne) over the weekend where 4 teenagers were killed. And the cars involved ... well, it's difficult to tell they were once modes of vehicular transportation.Oh, BTW, THIS tool needs to be banned ... for life!

Doubt an impact driver will work on flywheel bolts. Flywheel bolts are generally torqued to "FT". And they probably start to almost weld themselves in with time. Try soaking in WD40. Then get a L O O N N N G breaker bar.

Bozo selling it can't tell the difference between Jap Yen and US$.

AFAIK, the GT-R has a vacuum booster, similar to the booster on the brakes, GTSt doesn't. Now, you have to bleed the master first. If you have any air in the master, you will be wasting your time with the rest of it. The heaviness of the clutch is probably because there is a heavy duty clutch pressure plate installed.

Just disconnect the CAS, so it can't signal the injectors to operate.