blind_elk

According to the pic of the crank pulley, the engine is not at TDC #1. So everything in the pics means nothing. Bring the crank around so the dot on the pulley lines up with the dash on the timing case. Then check the cam pulleys. They might be 180 out, so bring the crank around another revolution and check the cam pulleys.

Wonderful news to make my weekend worth while. I've just been advised that as of next Wednesday July 1, I will be without a job. My current job is in IT, working on Oracle databases, Oracle Forms, SQL*Plus. If anyone knows of suitable work please let me know via PM. TIA the visually challenged moose

They are twin filament bulbs - 1 filament for brakes, 1 filament for tails. Just because the brakes work doesn't exclude the tails from not working. The bulb should have 2 "knobs" on the base. They mate against the 2 "knobs" in the bulb holder.

Well, you STILL haven't confirmed that you actually have axle tramp. It seems no-one has actually seen what is happening when you get "axle tramp". You have only felt something going on. I just can't believe that brand new Bilsteins and springs are incapable of controlling the vertical motion of the rear wheels.

Back to the question - the problem is the loose nut holding the wheel.

It's bad enough when they do it in separate areas, but in the same area ????

And how about only asking the question ONCE

Which f*&^%$g cylinder? There are numerous threads on how to diagnose this problem.

Battery

It's not a quick / simple answer. It will depend, amongst other things, on: manufacturer synthetic / semi-synth / mineral hot / cold viscosity specification. And finally ... is the pressure sender behaving itself.

Are they the same carbies as on the Prince Skylines?

NGK website (and I'm pretty sure the cattle-dog) says 5s for a (stock) RB25DET.

As you increase the pressure, you will increase the overall stiffness of the tyre, which will contribute to the ability of the tyre to get you around a corner. But, you will also decrease the contact patch area of the tyre. There comes a point where the added stiffness is overcome by the reduced contact patch, and the car no longer likes to go around corners. If anything, you need higher pressures in the front tyres - this will have the effect of reducing any understeer. For your setup, I would recommend 38 front, 36 rear for general road use. But maybe check what the manufacturer recommends, and then basically ignore it. Add at least 2psi to what the manufacturer recommends, making sure you still have more pressure in the fronts. In the wet, ADD pressure (about 2psi or so) - what this does is hold the tread in a more open configuration, allowing the tyre to more easily pump the water from beneath the tread.

I would be looking into the possibility of a collapsed cannon internals.

Amazing - nothing in the sticky FAQ about checking ignition timing! It as been covered - numerous times. Either: use the wire loop attached to the ignition module (be wary of some timing lights that "double" the reading) or insert a plug lead between the #1 coilpack and the spark plug, then measure as you have been used to (more accurate)

The oil pressure senders in Skylines are a bit suspect, and may not necessarily indicate the true oil pressure. Although the gauge may show 0 (or close to it), unless the "oh sh!t" light comes on - seriously 0 pressure - then I wouldn't be overly concerned. As the temperature rises, the oil becomes less viscous, ie it becomes "thinner". Because it is thinner, it can more easily squeeze past all the restrictions - bearing clearances, etc - so it doesn't require as much pressure to force it through the engine. Hence the "loss" of pressure once the engine is up to operating temperature.

New fuel filter? What fuel pressure do you have?

Does the PFC indicate engine temperature? What temp does it say the engine is running at when "warmed up"?

Why don't you ask the people at Wolf? www.wolfems.com.au

Toby has a rally car (make and model unspecified) which is fitted with 15" rims that happen to also fit a Silvia. He wants to know what size rims came standard on a R32 GTS4 so he can determine if the GTS4 brakes will fit inside the 15" rim. The number of studs for the "Silvia" rim is totally irrelevant to the question. And which Silvia / 200SX had 15" rims or 4/5 studs is also irrelevant. In answer to the question - as previously stated, R32 GTS4 comes with 16" rims standard. That does not necessarily mean that the brakes will not fit inside a 15" rim on his rally car. That will be governed by the size of rotor on the rally car, and the relative position of the caliper mounting lugs on the strut. It will be pretty much "suck it and see".

Why don't you just try it?

What happens when you swap the #4 coil onto another cylinder?

It WILL NOT be a problem with the O2 sensor

I would recommend that you simply replace the standard fan. My experience is that you will have trouble getting air to flow through the radiator after you install the thermo(s). An overheated engine is not worth the couple of kW you will free up.

About 4 years ago, I had the RB25DET rebuilt with forged pistons after it blew the rings in #2. The mob that machined the block, I'm pretty sure, removed the oil restrictor in the top of the block. Ever since getting the engine back on the road, it has been burning oil. It is suspected that the oil is being ingested past the valve stem seals. Could the lack of restrictor be contributing to the problem? Should I put the restrictor back in? (In which case I would have the head ported, etc while it was off)