blind_elk

First off, I think you need to confirm you actually have axle tramp. My understanding is that the driven tyres lose traction when you apply too much engine torque to, and the wheels simply bounce up and down. It's far more comon in leaf spring setups. That is why I couldn't believe that new Bilsteins and Kings springs didn't solve the problem. And since no-one has actually seen what is going on when you get the "axle tramp" happening. What did the guys at Traction have to say about the likelihood of you having "axle tramp"?

I suggest you get someone to watch what happens. I find it difficult to believe that brand new Bilsteins and Kings springs can't control the rear axles.

Axle tramp rarely happens while you are driving along. Might I suggest that it could be something in the drive shaft, maybe the centre bearing packing up.

Pretty certain Salvos and the like aren't going to be interested if the item is damaged.

The wider the tyre fitted to a given width rim, the larger the rolling diameter. Using wider tyres on narrower front rims will only accentuate the potential ATESSA problems.

So you've got a mate who has seen the rear axles tramping? Rather than dumping the clutch, have you tried feeding the power ie slightest clutch slip?

Ok, that might also explain why it's even getting difficult to open the hatch with the key.

What voltage do you have at the battery at idle? at 2000rpm? My nephew's car stopped on him one morning. Checked battery with engine running - 11.5V. So immediately suspected the alternator. When we got round to replacing the alternator, noticed the belt a bit loose, and then the -ve cable simply fell off the battery terminal. Tightened everything up - 13.5V, problem solved. So, is everything tight?

You basically need to tell them that the engine number has changed. They need to see the engine number on the block, and confirm it agrees with what you wrote on the form. The form also basically states that you got the engine legitimately ie not stolen. And you'll need to tell your insurance company. They are generally not very tech-savvy down at Vicroads, so I doubt they will find anything to defect you on (what have you got that's defectable?). Funny story - I put a L20ET in my 240Z. The form at that time had something about "make of replacement engine if not the same as the original". I left it blank, because the Z ran a "Nissan" engine (as do all Nissan / Datsun), and of course the L20ET is a "Nissan" engine. But the Vicroads guy filled it in - you see, the Z was a "Datsun", so it must have been originally fitted with a "Datsun" engine LOL.

24000rpm?????

The problem would be less of the cranking voltage taking power from the injectors, and more of the cranking voltage taking power away from the ECU. Try jump starting the engine.

Yeah, that makes sense.

How about just asking the question ONCE!

They use a twin filament globe - 1 filament for the brakes, 1 filament for tail lights. That is why the brake light works, but the tail light doesn't. If there is no power to the tail light terminal, then either you have blown the fuse for the RH tail lamp, or the power wire to the RH tail lamp is broken somewhere (have fun finding that one!)

What ECU are you running? Something I discovered when trying to tune mine - you can't always cure pinking with timing, but you can by fuelling.

"Doctor, it hurts when I do ...... THIS" Then don't do "THIS". Take a bit of lead out of that right boot. You don't have to wring the neck out of every gear. And maybe get some new shocks to control the axle tramp.

If he can get it to work again, then it can't be the speedo cable. Try checking the P/S fluid level.

Something I learned last night - my nephew's car stopped on him recently. When we got it home, it managed to fire up, but only had 11.5V at the battery. Immediately suspected pooped alternator. Anyway, went to fit the replacement alternator last night, noticed the belt seemed a bit loose, and the -ve battery terminal was loose. Tightened them both up - va-voom 13.5V with headlights on. So, the point of this story - is the fan belt tensioned correctly, and the battery terminals done up tight?

Does the R30 hatch have a "valet mode" for the remote release, similar to the remote boot release on the R32? Or has my cable broken?

But it also turns on with the parking lights!

Dick Smith have some that wrap around the source wire, and provide a spade connection for the branching wire.

How is the alternator? Is it charging correctly? If it is overcharging (crook regulator), it will fry the battery to the point where it basically is incapable of retaining any charge. And how old is the battery?

Um, the headlight?

The oil isn't going to heat up in just 5 sec of running time. It's cold, and will take quite a time to return to the sump. You NEVER bother checking oil levels immediately after shutting down the engine - you need a few minutes, even when the oil is hot. When it's cold, you need even more time. The viscosity of the oil makes little difference as to how quickly it will get up to temperature. That is controlled by the shear that the oil is subjected to, as it squeezes past all the clearances. The engine willl heat up faster if it is doing some work - drive the car around the block; the oil will heat up quicker.

Yes, the release cable has probably broken. You might be able to get a replacement from a wrecker, otherwise your friendly NISSAN dealer.