blind_elk

Can't possibly be "out by 1 inch" after using an alignment tool. The gearbox input shaft has to go through the driven plate. They are splined. It is probable that the splines aren't aligned correctly. Turn the input shaft a bit until the splines line up. Also, if the shaft isn't going in absolutely straight, you will have the same problem.

Piece of string or thin rope, coated in grease. Stuff it into the cylinder, bring the cylinder nearly tp TDC, the grease should pick up the broken bit of spark plug.If you must pull the head, do a search for the torque specs and remove / install order.

Try 180hp @ flywheel (unless, of course, you actually make hp through the drivetrain)

Well, the R30 is EFI, so it gets a Z170 then. Now I'm really confused

Thanks

Have you got the fuel lines on the right way? (yes stupid question, I know) Have you got fuel pressure? (just because the pump works doesn't measn you have pressure)

Probably.I've had the car since 2000. Only ever activated the ABS 2, maybe 3, times. 1st time was on the track. I got by for a long time without ABS, having learned threshhold braking at an advanced driving course. Drive within the conditions. Concentrate Anticipate React You shouldn't need ABS.

My point is that a competent driver doesn't need ABS. A competent driver reads the road, and can anticipate the need for brakes, not "Oh SHHIIIITTTTTT", and stomp on brake pedal. I got my 32 in 2000. It has ABS. It was the first car I ever had that had ABS. I have activated the ABS on 2, maybe 3, occasions. The first was on the track shortly after I got the car, and I didn't really realise at the time that it was the ABS. The rest of the time, I simply apply brakes up to the threshhold of wheel lockup, in effect I am the ABS unit. Learn to drive, and you won't need ABS, so you won't need the swtch. What happens if you forget to turn the ABS back on? (and don't say you won't - we all forget things accasionally)

I have the module from my RB20DET. I would imagine they are basically the same - anyone confirm / deny?

It could be a safety thing - colder fuel is less volatile, so not as much vapour around to ignite on hot exhausts / brakes / etc. But colder fuel is denser, so they can fit a few extra litres in the tank.

Why do you want to be able to turn it on/off? Read my comment in Aidan's "ABS Installation" thread.

ABS is for idiots who don't know how to brake safely. As Skyline owners and drivers, we are better than that, aren't we? Just because the car doesn't have ABS doesn't mean it's not safe to drive. Simply learn threshhold braking.

Here's the stupidity of this law - the government is aiding and abetting a breach of its own laws. If you aren't supposed to be driving that car, then why haven't they confiscated the car (or at least the keys) so you can't drive that car. No, just grab a few $$ from you, then send you on your way - in a car you aren't supposed to be driving.It's pure fund-raising, nothing to do with road safety.

Anyone know the correct part / model number?

Depends where it's leaking. Where is it leaking?

All the years this site has been around, and no-one has asked this question.

Consider it sold

What are the dimensions?

Idle is too high, IMO. That indicates air leak (likely some bozo cleaned the throttle bodies). Have you checked the base timing? Although that might be difficult if you can't control the idle speed.

www.westnet.com.au

Always park with gearbox in 1st, handbrake ON (obviously), even if it's auto. Sometimes put it in reverse if parked downhill, but usually 1st.

That will be the starter solenoid clicking in and out. Somehow voltage to hold it IN is being lost. The solution is to wire the solenoid through a relay - use the existing trigger wire to trip the relay which then provides direct battery voltage to the solenoid.

Use the "Alan key" style nuts. Available at wheel shops, maybe at Autobarn, Repco, etc.

On what pretence? It's a spark plug. The air/fuel mixture doesn't look at the spark plug and think "he's running R5671a spark plugs - I think I'll generate 20kW extra". It's a spark plug - it ignites the air/fuel mixture after it receives a huge jolt of electricity. It's the same size jolt of electricity, irrespective of the type or manufacturer of the spark plug.It really doesn't matter what number is stamped on the ceramic, as long as the plug is designed to fit the application. You will be wasting your money, IMHO.

If the fronts are spinning under these conditions, then my opinion is that the ATTESSA is working. What does the torque-split gauge say? AFAIK, the front diff is open, so it would be possible to stop one side, and the other side would continue to be driven. Is that what happens? If you remove the fuse (in a R33), the car goes to limp mode (I believe) - that makes it impossible to run it on a 2WD dyno.