blind_elk

RTFM

Use the horn 2 or 3 times, and the fuse blows. Any suggestions?

Just because wheels don't spin doesn't mean you have a problem. If anything, the fact that the rears break traction is the problem. Go and read through any of the hundreds of threads that explain how the ATTESSA 4WD system works. Then decide if you actually have a problem.

GT-Rs do not likely "iffy" batteries. Letting the battery go flat is just asking for trouble.

It won't be anything to do with the alternator - during "start", the battery supplies all electric power. Alternator only takes over once the engine is running. Are the fuel lines on the right way? Have you done a compression check? If the engine won't start, you won't be able to check ignition timing. Get a booster battery onto it, so you know for certain that you have enough grunt.

(Birth - rotors are brand new, shouldn't need machining!) (you were probably getting shudder) Have you got ABS?

Which side of the FPR - engine or return - is the fuel pressure gauge sitting? Because if it's on the engine side, it should basically show around 2 bar when the engine switches off (unless you don't have the non-return valve in the pump). What pressure does it show with the engine idling?

http://www.news.com.au/heraldsun/story/0,2...53-2862,00.html I happened to be following the guy who flipped. He had accelerated a bit early on the Kings Way onramp. When he got to the freeway, he probably didn't see the 2 cars parked in the RH merge lane after their crash, and has clipped one, turning his car (Magna) on its roof, then spearing across the road and coming to rest against the barrier. Somehow, he ended up in the back seat, and has come out of the car via the rear passenger door (probably disoriented being upside down - I think I heard him say something like "WTF happened?"). Can't help thinking it could have been me. It could have been any one of us.

Well, the RB25 bolted straight up to the 32's gearbox. Pretty much any gearbox that bolts to a particular RB-series engine should bolt straight up to any other RB-series engine. My experience has been that Nissan gearboxes, in general, are pretty well bulletproof. I had a 180B SSS, worked - it was my road / race / rally car. In 300k, only problems were a bit of wear in the main selector rod, and a munched 1st gear layshaft bearing. You may actually need the R33 GT-R / GTS4 box, because the ATTESSA works slightly differently to the 32s.

The R32 GTS4 box should be more than adequate. I have a RB25DET in my 32, pushing 180 kW out through all 4 wheels, and the gearbox is fine.

Unless you are running drag-specific tyres, "warming up" the tyres is simply showing off. Absolutely no benefit whatsoever. IMHO.

Make sure you get the Plug'n'Play version - I'm pretty sure they don't have an adapter. I think you need to modify the CAS, although the PnP version might not need that. Check them out at http://www.wolfems.com.au/

I'm no expert on these things, but I've heard that the variable inlet runner system packs up and they run like shite.

That's too heavy for a Skyline engine. And that is only the cold start viscosity - what is the other number?A word of advice - DO NOT boost a cold engine. Wait until it has a bit of temperature. IT'S NOT THE F****N O2 SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's unlikely to be the water temp sensor - usually, when they fail, they don't tell the engine that it's up to temp, so the ECU overfuels the engine. Not a problem if the engine is still cold. It's probably just that the ECU can't cope with the extra density of the colder winter air.

You can, generally, fairly safely increase the fuel pressure to the injectors with an adjustable FPR. But keep it sensible. By increasing the fuel pressure, you get a much better spray pattern, and therefore better atomisation of the fuel in the mixture.

Instruments usually don't have their own individual fuse. If the gauge isn't working: 1. Have you got coolant? (Yes, I know - stupid question!) 2. Remove the wire from the sender, and attach directly to earth. With IGN ON, if the gauge goes full scale, then the sender is dead. Otherwise the gauge is dead.

You didn't go and clean the throttle bodies, did you? The sensors (they are not the cause of your idle problem) are under the manifold, at #2 and #5 cylinders. You have probably just left them unplugged. (the error is not that you have detonation, but that the circuitry is faulty)

That's the size of the tyres. The size of the wheel is different, like 9"x17 +35. You need the "+35" (offset) or thereabouts. And you need the right stud pattern - 5x114.3

A v e r y l o n g socket extension that reaches forward to the alternator.

Pretty certain they have inertia locks. So the belt locks if the car stops suddenly, or the belt tries to reel out quickly. You need to make sure the belt is "up the right way", and just pull slowly / gently on the belt to get some length.

Exactly the same as jumping a manual. Leave the auto in 'Park', handbrake on.

Also in Lonsdale St this morning. God it looks mean!

Try overhauling the calipers.

If the red-top is anything like the silver-top, then the CAS should align to a key on the end of the exhaust cam (a process which is described in too many threads to count!).

Unless you want the "high idle" problem, leave them alone. You can't see them so they don't need to look "pretty".