blind_elk

Was the car running OK before you checked the timing? It would seem it was driving better than after you made adjustments. So why not put it back? (the old adage of "if it ain't broke, why fix it" seems to apply) The crank pulley is marked in 5deg increments. The pulley rotates left to right, as you look into the engine bay. So the first (right-most) mark is 30BTDC. Some timing lights somehow show double the actual timing. The safest way is inserting a spark plug lead on #1 and measuring "old school". I don't know about the "jump".

I don't believe that is the case. I just tried it with my Pathfinder (it's on LPG and takes a while to start from cold). Also double-checked with the 32. While the engine is cranking, the tacho doesn't move at all, not until the engine is almost started. And, after all, its only doing about 300rpm while cranking. You suggested you got some gunk from low fuel in the tank, so have you replaced the filter and had the injectors cleaned? Also, the coil ignitors are prone to problems when they get old, but usually only when they are hot - usually cooling them off fixes the problem, at least temporarily.

Not being the owner of a 33, but just looking at the symbols, I would hazard a guess that it folds the mirrors in / out. Have you even tried the switch to see what it does?

There is a new business started in Hoppers - YourGarage. Its just like a workshop, except you do the work. They supply all the equipment - 3 hoists, all the spanners you could ever want, hydraulic press, engine crane, welder, lots more. You pay an hourly rate for use of the shop; the rate reduces for 3 or more hour blocks. You can do anything from a simple oil change to an engine swap. Its located at F8/29 Graham Ct Hoppers, ph: 8360 7033, yourgarage.net.au FYI - they have a show'n'shine happening this Saturday Sept 24 - free to come and look.

Uploaded my current map to dropbox. PMd you the link. It is for a fairly stock 25, so I suspect it is likely to run your engine rich as.

If the engine is stock, and the coils are good, then open the plug gap out to 1mm. Also, you seem to have the wrong heat range plugs - the correct heat range is a 6. BTW - I've lost count of the number of times I've had to say that the O2 sensors are ignored under anything but cruise conditions. So if you are on boost, the O2 sensors play absolutely no part in how the engine runs.

What plugs did you put in? Any mods? Have you done the AAC clean?

The need to shut down the gap on a spark plug (in a stock engine) is generally indicative of a poor spark (coil). Try a new set of either factory or Splitfire coilpacks. The spark plug heat range for a stock 33 is a 5, so try a set of BP5nnn plugs, 1 - 1.1 gap. Get the injectors cleaned.

Check the TPS. If it isn't indicating a "throttle closed" condition at no-throttle, then it will not be shutting down the injectors during back off and gear changes.

A simpler, and cheaper, possible solution is to fit a relay to the solenoid trigger wire, so you get maximum voltage to the starter solenoid.

How about just ONE post on the same topic?

Thanks Duncan. So, I located the relay(s), removed them, hit them with a bigger hammer, left them out of the car for a while, refitted them .... And haven't had a problem since

20SIX has some Bilsteins for sale http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464060-r32-4wd-billstein-adjustable-suspension/ Someone else had a few sets of various makes (incl Bilstein), but I can't seem to locate the ad. You really won't go too wrong with Bilsteins. I believe the sets available from Quadrant (Oz distributors) are similar to the Nissan Race Team spec.

Interior rear view mirror?

If you use the wastegate controller for an RB20DET, then you will get around 10psi available right through the rev range. Then "open up" the dump pipe and you can get a couple more psi. (this is how my RB25DET in R32GTS4 is set up. I also run the wastegate actuator from the fpr line, so I get full 12psi at the manifold, rather than at the compressor wheel)

First up, the rear brakes do next to no retarding of speed. The majority of the stopping is done by the front brakes. To the main problem at hand - are these calipers brand new or second hand? If second hand, did you put a kit through them, and ensure that the pistons actually slide in the caliper body?

Vicroads VSI8, Sect 13.3.2 Option 2. It states "for that model or vehicle series". In that case, you might be able to argue that you can fit a rim 25mm wider than a stock GT-R rim on a GTSt.

How wide is a 33 GT-R rim? 8"? If that's the case, you probably only need a 235/45 tyre. (245/45 max) I'm surprised the "tyre place" couldn't give you a definitive answer. (similar sizing rules apply in Victoria, fyi)

But there is a rule that you cannot go more than 1" wider than the widest rim available in the series.

Just trying to confirm the rim width for the steel rims fitted to the R30 hatch. I want to use them on my 180B SSS, but there is something in the regs about maximum increase in rim width. FYI - 180B is a massive 4 1/2 J x 13

Well, went out last night, got to the destination, stopped engine - bloody pump is still running!!! Where is the relay that controls the pump? Maybe its faulty - after all, it is over 25 years old.

jiffo, it kept on pumping even after the key was removed from the ignition. The other weird thing was that until immediately before starting the engine, the pump wanted to run when the battery was connected and both fuses in place. Then it all worked fine after starting then stopping the engine.

Well, that's weird. Pulled both fuses, connected battery, started car. Both ABS and AWD warning lights. Replaced the underdash fuse, ABS warning light off, got code 19 (whatever that is) at the ATTESSA computer. Replaced the fuse / relay under the bonnet, then stopped the engine. No pump sound! Restarted the engine, all warning lights off. Stopped engine, no pump sound! Someone please tell wtf is going on.

I pulled the fuse, and no longer get the ATTESSA pump activating.