blind_elk

You should find that the pin and bush are tapered, so it can only go together one way.

Can you turn "Closed Loop" on / off? (I know in the Wolf 3D you can)If the sensors are actually working, then the fuelling is way too rich at your "cruise" speed.

Coming on boost is load sensitive. It might be possible to be doing 4500rpm and still not have any boost if the load on the engine is low enough (such as "free-revving" the engine, or perhaps running downhill).The problem of running in too high a gear is not really about the revs, but more about how easy it is for the engine to adjust road speed to throttle inputs. If you need a bit of acceleration, the engine will need to work harder (less efficiently) in 5th than it might in 4th or even 3rd.

Are you sure your original clutch assembly was fitted to the replacement engine?

Waste of time setting the fans this way.Both fans don't need to come on until the engine is over thermostatted temperature. You can get away with setting as high as 95. You haven't raised the rear if the bonnet, have you?

Don't loosen the cable - it will only get worse. Adjust the shoes inside the drum.

Old ignitors are notorious for misbehaving when they get hot. If it is idling badly, try using an ice-pack on the ignitor - see if cooling it down improves the situation.

From memory, it's unique to the R30 - because it's an entire LCA!

Have you adjusted the shoes? A hydraulic unit simply "inserts" into the rear hydraulic line.

Seeing as the majority of people these days don't learn how to drive, they learn how to get a licence, may I be so bold as to suggest that you learn how to DRIVE the car first. And get rid of the F*****G neons!

My thoughts exactly. 5th gear is for highway cruising, not puttering around town.Stay in 4th at least, you should see an improvement.

The clicking is probably the starter solenoid. You have probably lost the main power feed to the starter motor. Better to look at it all in daylight.

Get the Change of Description form, fill out the Change of Engine section, take the form and the car to a Vicroads office. Vicroads will confirm the detail on the form, mainly engine number matches doco. A RWC is not required.

Yes, get it from your local Vicroads office. Don't know if RTA will accept it, but it's all we southerners have got.

Splintex will come to you. He does it "out of the car". If you want to go somewhere, Speed Technology in Mitcham - also "out of car" cleaning.

Because it contains lead, it is illegal to use it in a car complied to run unleaded. It will kill the O2 sensors, and the cat. (and de-catting is also illegal). Before you get caught with it in the fuel tank, make sure you have a very good relationship with your local bank manager.

What's wrong with some Aussie rims - ROH "Drift R" in a 17x8 (235/45x17), maybe 17x9 (245/45x17). Talk to Andrew at Traction Tyres in Rowville.

Have a read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

The term is PINKING. And if you can hear it, you are already in trouble. One other cause can be a spark plug with the incorrect heat range - it runs too hot and pre-ignites the fuel / air mixture.

Splintex did a good job last time I had a mobile unit clean the injectors.

Those products are basically maintenance items - they cannot remove the waxy products that build up on the injector and disrupt the spray pattern. It is best to get the injectors cleaned external to the engine, because you can then have them checked for correct spray pattern. Cleaning them in-situ "hopes" that the job gets done properly. If you look in the Yellow Pages (on-line or on paper), under Fuel Injection, there will be various businesses, including mobile services, listed. Find which one does flow testing and spray pattern testing.

That wire triggers the solenoid on top of the starter motor. It should have 12V on it when you switch to "Start".

H o l d everything! Are you talking about the reading from the oil pressure gauge in the instrument panel, or the oil level showing on the dipstick? The gauge indicates OIL PRESSURE, which is pretty much unrelated to OIL VOLUME.

I'm surprised that a reputable tyre fitter would even try and fit those tyres onto 10" rims. The widest rim a 245/45x18 tyre is designed to fit is 9" (minimum 7.5", optimum 8"). If you can get them to stretch onto a 10" rim, they are simply dangerous. (I'll have to remember to avoid Melbourne's northern suburbs.)

Kyriakos needs a swift boot up the rear for ignoring:no oil pressure showing on the gauge. "Oh Shit" oil pressure warning light shining brightly. If he bought the car privately, fair trading laws don't apply. And it would be difficult to prove that the seller was at fault, anyway.