blind_elk

The multiple proposer / seconder may be slightly irrelevant, but knowing who proposed / seconded each candidate is important.Ash, I'm pretty sure it will be in the rules somewhere (at Corp Affairs, or wherever the club is incorporated). It might even be in the constitution. An added requirement is that the proposer / seconder MUST be a CURRENT FINANCIAL member of the club. That doesn't include people who are simply members of this forum and who happen to attend the meetings of the club. It's certainly a shame that there aren't more people standing for the various positions, but that's the way it is with voluntary committees. Then you cop it for not doing what the members want, but they are (usually) "too busy" to give the time themselves.

Technical pont: The list of nominees should also include the proposer and seconder. In addition, a person cannot nominate or second more than one nominee for the same position, eg Bec cannot nominate Ash for President and second Wayne for President. Basically, you are nominating or seconding someone because you feel they can do the job, and it would be therefore customary for you to vote for them. Since you cannot vote for 2 different people for the one position, you should not nominate &/or second more than one person for the same position.

Surely the frequent flyer points would ease the pain.

Got an email from Steve at Wolf last night, extolling the virtues of having clean injectors. He highlighted the fact that dirty injectors with poor spray patterns can have an adverse effect on fuel economy.So cleaning the injectors will, more than likely, make you feel good. Who knows what crap has snuck past the fuel filter and embedded itself on the needle of the injector.

Information I have suggests that reducing the profile of the front tyres will tend to increase the tendency for understeer.And why would you skimp on the tyre width by deliberately holding back on fitting the widest possible tyre on the available rim? Looks? The tyres are all that connect you to the road. Not much of a look after the skinny ones let go ...

The spark plug heat range needs to be in the discussion. If you have the wrong heat range, then the spark plug will not perform to its optimum. And if it doesn't perform to optimum, you get crap fuel economy. Leave the f****n O2 sensor out of the equation. You are driving mostly city (ie stop / start), so the ECU will be generally ignoring anything the O2 sensor tells it (read any of the 1,278,943 other threads in here regarding where / when / how the O2 sensor works).

I think I read somewhere that flyspray can remove tar from paint work. Would probably work on deadener as well. Get the bulk of it out with a scraper, then treat the residual with the flyspray, and lots of rags.

Clean the contacts in the master headlight switch. It's a common problem, but usually only manifests itself by one headlight not working. A <SEARCH> might have discovered this for you. Oh, BTW - don't drive at night if you don't have headlights!

It's more like an overflow tank. If the coolant gets a bit too hot, it can force past the radiator cap. The bottle is there to catch the excess. When the engine cools down, a vacuum is created inside the cooling system, and the water in the overflow is forced back into the cooling system (block / radiator).

Superman X-ray vision

Well, now I'm lost. Sounds more like something to do with the BOV. Pic please.

Both are technically correct. Just depends which side of the engine needs breathing. Plenum side goes through the PCV valve, turbo side simply goes to the turbo intake. Why is the breather disconnected anyway?

Before you hand over your hard-earned, have a look on the bottom of the cylinder for a date of manufacture (format is MM/YY). From memory, CAMS puts a 3 year life on extinguishers - that's 3 years from manufacture, not purchase. Sometimes, the extinguisher can be more than 1 year old before it is bought.

255/40 - sidewall = 102 235/45 - sidewall = 106 Rears will have a smaller rolling diameter than fronts, so ATTESSA will not perform as designed. I would expect that Nissan designed to GT-R to handle best with the same size tyres front and rear - why does everyone have to doubt their engineering ability and fit something different?

I may have overlooked something in your original post, but what are the symptoms of "runs like shit"? You've said it runs smoothly, idles ok and will rev all day. What bit "runs like shit"? You have an adjustable fuel reg - 1:1 or rising rate? If you don't have a pressure gauge on the fuel line, don't go playing with the fuel pressure - you risk leaning the mixture too far at the top end of the rev range. You are running a stock RB25DET ECU? I don't think they work with Z32 AFMs (which I note you have replaced with a stock unit). And the stock ECU probably won't run too well with a rising rate FPR (top end will be far too rich). You've checked the timing @ idle? The injectors are firing in the correct order? The sparkies are firing in the correct order?

I don't recall how much it cost, but money was no object at the time.It's costing you nothing to borrow mine. (and it costs you nothing to just check if it will even work for you) The head is full adjustable in 3 dimensions. It just needs a head restraint post to mount on. Otherwise, go get a suction cup and mount my setup on it.

I got a setup from http://www.videocraft.com.au/ - it clamps onto the head restraint uprights. I guess you could borrow it to see if it is suitable.

BRAKES ffs! Did you bed the pads in correctly? Are the anti-SQEAL shims behind the pads?

This of course is premised on the assumption that it is an oxy sensor (which it isn't)

Autobarn, Repco, Supercheap - any auto parts store should have them.

Can't answer about the VCT solenoid. Injector cleaner is basically a maintenance additive.You really need to get the injectors sonic cleaned (which entails removing them from the rail) if you hope to remove any contaminants. Then use cleaner to maintain the cleanliness. The O2 sensor has a built-in heater so that it can sit further down the exhaust system. It relies on the heater and the exhaust gases to maintain the correct operating temperature. The sensor is doing exactly what it should, assuming the engine is under constant load / revs. Any other condition, particularly acceleration, and you (and the ECU) can ignore anything the O2 sensor says or does (it will generally show close to 1V under acceleration).

Your 2nd pic - "100% Plumb back" - is almost correct. Just forget about the 2 lines going to the PCV valve and it will be good.

With differing widths, you will have problems matching rolling diameters front and rear. That will upset ATTESSA. Same size tyre on a wider wheel will result in a slightly reduced rolling diameter. That will upset ATTESSA.

Word of advice reNEG - in all my 35+ years of motoring, I can't recall a time when I had to consistently bounce an engine on its rev limiter. There is nothing cool about it. Treat the engine nicely, and it will behave itself. Abuse it (by "limitering" it), and it will bite you.

TPS is at least needed (recommended) for acceleration functions. And for Injector Overrun.