blind_elk

These settings don't necessarily apply to a Wolf 3D. (Wolf use MAP sensing) reNEGaDeR32, Talk to Steve at Advance Engine Management (Wolf manufacturer). They are in Melbourne.

Yeah, knew they were different, just couldn't remember which was which (been a while since I crawled under the back of my GTS4).

Which model are they supposed to fit? If R32, then it's likely they are GT-R / GTS4. The fronts are shorter, because they fit in a tighter space.

I've got a RB25DET in my 32, and the temp gauge has always sat around the halfway mark (even 40+ with A/c on full blast). You (and your friend) might have a sticky thermostat that doesn't open / close smoothly. I don't think it will hurt the replace it, anyway.

You've probably run out of A/C refrigerant.

First silly Q - if you have disconnected the battery, then which terminals are you measuring voltage across? What do you mean by "alternator takes this charge"? The alternator "makes" charge.

Check EVERY SINGLE JOIN in the intake plumbing - one of them has popped.

Most council recycle stations will accept used motor oils. Contact you local council for details.

First thing to do is move coils in 1, 2 & 4 to 3, 5 & 6, see how it runs. If the coils in 1/2/4 aren't firing, then it's the igniter or loom, or maybe spark plugs; if 3/5/6, then it's the coils.

If it's mainly city driving, I would doubt the O2 sensors have much input into your fuel economy, since you would have very few situations where you are on constant load / throttle. If you want to confirm O2 sensor problems, try going for a cruise - repeat CRUISE - up the highway to Albury - if you still have crap economy, then the O2 sensors may be faulty. Your tuner wil be tuning AFRs for high load situations, not cruise. If the sensors are not mounted on the upper side of the dump pipes, then they will poop themselves quite quickly (so I believe).

www.dba.com.au

Why aren't you running the backing plate? What could be so important that you would risk the valve timing being off and a valve punching a hole through your brand new pistons? Use the backing plate - it's there for a reason.

The wheels drive the rollers, the rollers don't drive the wheels.So, if you start "driving" on the dyno, the rear wheels start driving the (rear) rollers but the front wheels are stationary. WHEEL SPIN! There would be no G-forces involved, because the car is stationary. I've never had the G-sensor disabled when AWD dynoing my (R32) GTS4. Not even when 2WD dynoing (pulled fuse) it on a AWD dyno.

Good news! http://www.theage.com.au/national/sunshine...90227-8jqh.html

Stagea is 4.083:1 (49:12?). (R32) GTS4 is 4.375:1 (35:8)

Calipers are on the right way (bleed nipple on top)? I know it's a stupid question, but ... You replaced the master cylinder? In my 240Z, I did the same, there was a little rubber block inside the booster. It sits between the master pushrod and the booster pushrod. It dropped into the booster. Had good pedal pressure, until vacuum was applied to the booster, ie start engine.

You have probably warped the head. Most good repairers will not touch the head now (ie try and straighten it). Time for a new motor.

My comment about the Golden Rule was perhaps a bit cynical. You are innocent until proven guilty. If you contest the charge, it is up to the police to PROVE that the car is a high-powered vehicle. If Vicroads don't have the data, then the charge cannot be proven. Even better if you can counter their claim. Simply get the car weighed. It should cost much less than the cost of the fine.

I have the answer (well, for me at least). I checked my "Certificate of Registration", which is the part of the renewal immediately below the sticker. It has an area labeled "TARE" - that's basically kerb weight. Mine says "1400". So, according to Vicroads, my R32 GTS4 weights 1.4T. At 158kW, that means 112.86 kW/T. If that's not less than 125, I don't know what is.

????It's "nominally" 206kW, and everyone knows it's more than that "out of the box". More than 206kW, in a 1.4T car -> more than 147kW/T. If the car isn't that heavy, then the number goes up.

Unfortunately, they don't have to prove anything. It is taken for granted they are right. You will have to prove them wrong.It's the "Golden Rule" in action - those who have the gold make the rules! Anyway, I'm trying to get hold of someone inside Nissan Australia who can get the data we need (kerb weight, engine power). Hold tight.

The 48:11 means there are 48 teeth on the crown wheel, and 11 on the pinion. Which is 4.364:1 . And I'm guessing 'LS' means 'Limited Slip'. The previous owner has obviously changed the gearing for some reason.

I've never had any problem when getting some opposite lock in the GTS4. The warning I got about HICAS is that if you back off in a corner, HICAS will turn you around. If you keep the power feeding into the rear, you won't have any problems.

1. If you are running a R200 type diff, then any R200 diff (GT-R / GTSt / Stagea) should fit. 2. If you fit a 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, you will get better acceleration. In general, you would lose top speed, but it is possible you may get better top speed because the engine can more easily turn the rear axles through the lower ratio. But you will be revving the engine higher, regardless. 3. I would think that a 3.9 should be more than adequate for a RB20 in a car designed for a CA18 / SR20 If you are happy with the performance now, I'd say leave it be.

The igniter is prone to "I don't like the heat, I'm taking a siesta" when it gets a bit older. Try swapping it for a known ok unit. And I don't understand this "lift the back of the bonnet" to overcome overheating. It must be a high pressure region at the base of the windscreen (that was the theory of the 'reverse scoops' on A9X/L34 and Falcon GT Group C cars). So while driving along, you would be forcing air back into the engine bay. That means a high pressure region inside the engine bay, which means you can't get air to pass through the radiator. Which means the coolant isn't cooled (as much).