blind_elk

3000 rpm idle = massive air leak. You've left a hose off somewhere - I would start looking around the cold start valve.

The main problem with the L24 in the R30 is that it is very restrictive to airflow. You will need to do a significant job on the head to open up the ports (inlet and exhaust) and probably fit some larger valves. The simpler solution (but probably not easiest solution) is to get hold of a 240Z head, and machine the indentations in the inlet ports for the injectors. Then a nice set of extractors to get all that exhaust gas away from the engine. (you could probably do that first - cheapest and quickest) If you can't find a 240Z head, try just a 240Z cam.

You have to run a FPR. You don't have to run an aftermarket / adjustable FPR.

That could be your problem. You need to disconnect the electrical plug before adjusting the screw to get the idle correct.(You may need to "unadjust" the butterflies too)

Before forking out for new tyres - how much were those "no-names" anyway? - get the tyres turned around on the rims, then swap sides (ie L->R) so the tyre still rotates in the same direction.

Does the emanage have programming for acceleration enrichment?

More like "worn out hoses" - they're nearly 20 years old, after all. And the Japs are notorious for not using coolant, then the hoses rot from the inside.

cocky's! Why does everyone think that the O2 sensor is the be all and end all of problems with the way an engine runs? If you have a dud plug, for example, the O2 sensor, plugged in or not, isn't going to make a scrap of difference to how the engine runs.

Daniel @ DJM in East Burwood can probably help. A "general" mechanic, not brakes specific. But knows his way around most bits of a car.

Frankly, don't see the point if it's a "daily". The car comes with oil pressure, water temp and boost gauges - why do you need to duplicate them. And the oil temp isn't likely to get out of control. But if you must ...

Did you bleed the master cylinder before bleeding the calipers? That is usually the first cause of "can't get the air out". The ABS has a bleed nipple on top, from memory.

I've put a Stagea RB25 into my R32 GTS4. If you use something like the Wolf V5 plug'n'play ECU for the RB20, you can use the RB20 loom, and just add in the extra bits like VVT control. I'm still using the R32 gearbox, and it happily handles the additional torque and power (180 awkW). And it still drives the speedo (without the hassles to use the later electronic drives).

Then you need to make sure the air wants to pass through the radiator, not down and out under the car.

You need to create a low pressure area behind the radiator - try some bonnet flutes / vents.

A couple of things happen when you toss it into neutral @ 100kph: Revs drop to idle (assuming your foot comes off the pedal at the same time!) Load is removed from gearbox Load is removed from diff and in a GT-R / GTS4, load is removed from the transfer case and front diff. So, it's possible it could be in the exhaust, but that is usually a "drone" (low pitch). If it were in the gearbox, the frequency would vary depending on engine revs (which gear) @ 100kph (hum....hum....hum.... vs hum..hum..hum..). If it were tyres, then the noise wouldn't go away in neutral. Check fluid levels in the front diff, rear diff and gearbox. Maybe even change them. See what happens.

Bubba, he said he's doing it on his iPhone (ie it's a simulation). thrtytwo, A RB20DET only puts 160kW at the flywheel, and only when it's new. I doubt with your minimal mods you would have 130kW at the rears.

You will probably need to drill and tap the hole oversize, and use a helicoil to bring it back to the correct size for the stud. Studs are a standard item across the majority of makes and models, and are readily available at most auto parts shops and exhaust places.

Are you ABSOLUTELY sure all the bolts are done up correctly? You are certain that the strut was sitting down properly on the lower control arm before you tightened the bolts? I'd be checking every possible place in the front suspension for a couple of loose bolts.

If the car doesn't have plates (or rego has expired), you will need to purchase a temporary permit from Vicroads. Periods vary, from memory 1 day / 7 days / 28 days. RWC usually lasts 30 days from date of issue.

What ECU are you running?

According to the DBA website catalogue, R32 GTSt is a 292mm rear.

I've just upgraded to a single unit that fits the "hole in the wall" in my new house. So I have for sale a Westinghouse Silhouette 252 refrigerator (252 litre) and a matching Silhouette 211 (211 litre) freezer. Both in excellent working order. Might suit someone just moving out on their own. $75 each, or $125 for the pair. In Melbourne (not shipping interstate).

As you rightly should be.But it's rare - only ever heard one ever case of it being the problem.

It is often the immobiliser of the alarm having a life of its own. Also, when it gets older, the ignitor pack often starts to misbehave when it gets hot. One other rare one is something (like a plastic bag) in the fuel tank floating around and eventually blocking the pump pickup.

Welcome back Steve - LTNS. As SteveL says, the R30 has an external pump. It sits basically between the RH rear drive shaft and the fuel tank. As a first try to get it working, give it a bit of a hit with a hammer or similar heavy item - it might jolt the innards loose. But you will eventually have to replace the pump (which is ridiculously expensive new from Nissan).