blind_elk

It has them for RB26DETT / RB20E/DE/DET / RB25DE - and they are all pretty much the same across the range.

Sports cars don't have auto transmissions. /rant If you can't drive a manual in peak hour, then you shouldn't be driving a manual. If Nissan thought the GT-R needed an auto, then I'm sure they would have made it an option. I would think that if your RB26DETT is trashing transmissions (manual), you will be lucky to make the first 60 feet with a GTS4 auto - it was, after all, only designed to handle a 160kW RB20DET. If you MUST have an auto, I would reckon the box from a Stagea might have the innards to handle a bit of grunt.

Maybe they put the wrong clutch in the packaging. Talk to the supplier of the clutch.

I got this info a few years ago now. To reduce understeer: At the front - Increase tyre pressure Reduce tyre profile More -ve camber Softer springs Softer / thinner sway bar Reduce weight At the rear - Reduce tyre pressure Larger tyre profile Less -ve camber Stiffer springs Stronger / thicker sway bar Add weight

Fuel pressure is controlled by the air pressure (vacuum or boost) inside the manifold. if it's jumping all over the place, then you have a problem retaining air pressure inside the manifold.Have you checked the BOV?

That would have been a useful piece of f@#$n information to have in the first place.

Go and buy the workshop manual! JPNZ - www.jpnz.co.nz - have an engine manual for something like $50 delivered (when I bought mine, it was around $150!).

There's another thread where it turned out (probably) to be a faulty BOV.

Generally, the ECU switches things to earth, rather than sent out a voltage. So you might not see it happen if there is no voltage to switch to earth.

I would suggest you have a broken wire somewhere in the loom to the solenoid. It is intermittently losing connection because of vibrations, then making the connection again.Try permanently powering the solenoid - see how the car goes. Try a new connection between the ECU and the solenoid.

That pretty much defeats the purpose of installing thermo fans.The principle is based on the fact that when the car is moving at a reasonable speed there is sufficient airflow through the radiator to maintain the thermostatted temperature. At idle, the engine can tolerate slightly elevated temperatures, until a point when you need to provide some fan-forced cooling. Once the car gets moving again, the airflow will cool to thermostatted temperature again. (This is how my R30 works) As in my experience (in the R32), if you can't get enough air to flow through the radiator, you are going to have trouble maintaining coolant temperature control. If you have to have the thermos running all the time, then the system is not working correctly.

Air filters? Fuel filter?

Have you considered that during dry spells quite an amount of oil and sh!t gets deposited on the road surface. Then the road gets wet by rain. Oil and water don't mix.

Step 1 - check that the AWD warning light in the dash is working. Step 2 - check the fluid in the attessa reservoir.

My experience was that I couldn't get air to flow through the radiator, thus making it easy for the engine to overheat. Even on the highway, a slight uphill gradient increased the load enough that the thermo would turn on. Also, the A/c radiator relies on the standard fan for some cooling.

I seem to recall when I removed the RB25 from my R32 GTS4, I was only using a 250kg capacity crane and stand.

Well, it should have a 3-position switch - off / courtesy / on. What happens when you switch to "on"?

S1 (has an ignotor module) or S2? The ignitor modules start misbehaving when it gets hot.

"Eyeballing" isn't checking. Does the valve end up perpendicular to the "closed" position when you have full boost?

or the fuse has blown!

That won't "clean" them. It will basically maintain them, but it won't necessarily "clean" them.

You mean the courtesy light in the roof? Have you checked that the switch hasn't been knocked to the "off" position.

Then what's your problem? At least the dyno output agrees with your tacho. It doesn't matter if it was really 4500 and not 5000 rpm; at least when you see 5000rpm on your dial tacho, you will know from the dyno chart exactly what power is being output.And you are basing your belief of "incorrectness" on a calculation from an unknown source. Maybe you plugged in an incorrect value. Maybe there is something about your car that is different to other similar cars (like rolling diameter of the drive wheels). If you are so concerned about the accuracy or otherwise of an analogue measuring instrument, get a digital tacho hooked up to the engine, and check the accuracy that way. (My +/- 50 is the variation at idle, ie it hunts within a 100 rpm range)

I've got one from a Stagea RB25 - just need to work out where I buried it when I moved house! I'm not sure if it woud fit - it has different hose fittings, and a different (3-rib) wheel. If I can find it, I'm thinking $100 (incl postage).

Depends where in Melbourne you are. Try Speed Technology in Mitcham. Or, check the yellow pages (under Fuel Injection, I think) for people who come to you.