space_monkey

Hunting during idle is typically due to additional air getting into the system which the air flow meter isn't registering. This is due to a leak somewhere. The most likely culprit is the black charcoal box that they have to install when importing for emissions reasons. One of the hoses that comes out of this feeds back into your plenum. If you plug the hose with a ball bearing and the hunting stops you've found your culprit. Other points to check are the multitude of vacuum hoses that run around the engine but you don't often see these leaking.

Manual gear stick lower bush - 32861-01G00 (small bush on the lower end of the gearstick shaft)

Where are you located? I assume this is the front and rear set with the 5 grooves for circlips. Can you confirm. Thanks.

This thread is still open. Are the Bilsteins still available?

PM sent

If you're going for a large one-off deal i.e. you don't have an account with anyone and it's bigger than a satchel, try Couriers Worldwide Express. www.cwe.com.au I got some very good pricing from them. As long as each box is under 50kg they can do it.

Slightly cheaper price for what looks like the same item here; http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=326_367_374 Does anyone know the weight of the RB25DET standard flywheel? Also Aluminium @ 5.0kg for around $520 or Chrome-Moly @ 5.5kg for $100 less???

Can anyone shed some light on what values I should be getting on Datascan for Throttle, AAC, Water Temp and AF Base when the car has warmed up and is idling. I have an R33 S2 GTS-T with a standard Nissan ECU and am struggling with setting the base idle and base timing. Can't seem to get the idle down to 650rpm in Base Idle Adjustment mode. Currently it sits around 800rpm with the idle adjust screw all the way in and jumps to 900rpm when I hit the Base Idle Adjust button but isn't really steady in either case. I set the timing to 15deg using a timing light off the number 1 spark plug with the Base Idle Adjust turned on but as soon as I turn the Base Idle Adjust off it drops back to 800rpm and the timing retards to 0deg.

Thanks Anthony. I'll give that a go after I pick up some small screwdrivers. I can't seem to get my car to idle below 750rpm no matter how far in I turn the idle adjust screw. When I try to set the base timing to 15 deg by disabling the variable timing that the computer is running, the revs jump up to around 850-900rpm. I set it to 15 deg and then re-enable the variable timing. Straight away the revs drop to 750rpm and the timing drops to 0 deg. Almost like it's trying to get to 650rpm by retarding the timing when idling. It's a pain and I can't get my head around it.

When I took mine off for the clean I took the idle adjust screw all the way out. Around it was a rubber sleeve. Now whenever I try to screw it back in the sleeve just rolls up the screw and I'm concerend that air may leak in through any gaps. Anyone got any suggestions on how to get this rubber to seat on the screw inside the thread again?? Also the sticker under my bonnet says I should be setting the idle to 650rpm. Does anyone really run their car this low?