iplen

No high mount brake light, no filler neck, none of the changes mentioned, apart from tyres and restraints.. But I paid an extra $500 to have the mods "removed and replaced.." pretty sure this money actually covered not seeing the mods..

I would personally go WRX, because I used to rally a non turbo Subaru, but they are very fragile. GTT I would always wish I had just bought a GTR. Commodore, NO, they are shit, they rattle, they are badly built, they can go well, but that is IT, the manual is so bad to use you will wish it was auto, the auto is a clunky old slush box that you cant drive with any real passion... The reasons continue.. Consider an Evo.. Best value toy out right now

Were you at Superlap? It you want to know what to buy for track work, look at what other people are using, I know you have said it will be a 34, and I would buy a 34 over an evo too, but expect to get beaten at the track by evos...

I would only buy an R35 GTR if it had webbers on it, and infact I am converting my R32 to triple webbers right now, it will be heaps faster, probably quicker than any R35 with a billion dollars spent on it, I may even beat a Dragon I think.

Wow!! This is really pathetic, did NRMA actually do market research before deciding to spam a forum they would never sponsor or provide services too? Or did you take it upon yourself, because if so you may want to check with NRMA or whoever you are trying to represent if they approve of this

Sometimes goes away when I put my foot down, sometimes continues. Any idea whether this can be tuned out of them? would imagine not but have seen good tuners do some impressive things

Actuators are the Garrett ones that came with the turbos

Apexi pods and turbos are the only mods, does it on any boost setting (7,12,18). Turbo shuffle sounds far more likely, that is the noise I am getting, remember hearing talk about it previously but had forgotten until GTScotT mentioned it. Definately not the induction noise.

Have just finished fitting GT2860-9s to my car, when cruising along in 5th at 100ish going up hills with light load it starts making a sound like a steam train, it does not surge power wise, but it just makes this noise for as long as I hold it on light throttle, so I back off, it stops, accelerate, still not there, lift off to hold 100k, it starts again.. It did used to do the same with stock turbos but rarely, and not as bad. Questions: Is it compressor surge? Apart from being bloody annoying is it doing any damage? With a PFC and a tune will it be possible to get rid of it? (or what will?)

Some shots of the Missus iPhone; For some reason it will not upload the other shots?

Was my first SAU cruise as well, my wife was singing in Bathurst until 2am and had to leave at 6, but was so worth it. As a cruise virgin I was a little worried that the good behavior talk at the start and on here may go out the window once we were on the road so was relieved that the code of conduct is followed so well. I am guessing that the R33 GTsT that decided to show us his wares was not part of the cruise? Congrats to the winners, thanks to the sponsors and organisers, will be very keen for more events in the future

I can solve your storage issue, will not even charge you for the space, will keep it cleaned and maintained free of charge

Found your car, http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...0&silo=1011 Large capacity, 4WD, and forced induction. Alternatively, if you want something more useful http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer...3&silo=1011 Enjoy

If you are so concerned about displacement, get a Clubsport!!! or alternatively: M3 is 3.2 or 4.5 (?) if it's the V8 2.6x1.7 turbo multiplication as per motorsport regs = 4.42, so basically the RB26 is equivelant to an NA 4.4l, but is even easier to get HP out of. Seriously get the car, drive it for a bit, play with what you get then decide what you want to improve. if it is STRICTLY a road car what the F do you need more than 300hp for? even my stock R32 with a pair of -7s is quicker that all bar the top Porsches/Ferraris/Lambos etc to 100... The way you are talking I would personally be suggesting maybe this

Ooooooopppsss...... Rechecked the website.... Prior to AA will either have a 7, 8 or a letter (number absent) 7 is standard, 8 is v spec II nothing is v spec

A good mate who is a well renowned mechanic has a cheap china radiator in his 180, which is running 260+rwkw, and he swears by it, bought it as a "get out of Jail" and fitted perfectly, inc original shroud etc, and has not had 1 prob with it.. With that much trouble though I would be worried the issues go further than the radiator...

yeah, this thread will be very informative if the radiator in your beetle ever gets blocked....

Not sure if it is true... but... pretty confident a Kombi has a lower CD than an E type Jag.... CD can also have a fair bit to do with the way air leaves the car would be keen to know if the N1 bits effect the R32??? I have also noticed a massive difference going down hill in my R32, pop it into neutral and it damn near stops dead, however wheels seem to spin pretty freely when it is on stands. 1989 Patrol though could roll forever, before front hubs etc were done, rather than being CD related, pretty sure this was just a result of wheel momentum.

So ALL the tuning eg fitting the exhaust.. was done by Nissan motorsport Japan???

It certainly effects them a lot, but the issue is also that at that point the car had to be designed to work on the race track with out any body modifications, and race cars need down force, which creates drag, this is my theory. Pretty sure the other reason might be that it was not to well thought out or designed..... I am actually thinking about removing rear wing and trying reduce drag a bit next time I go to the strip to see what diff it makes

Not trying to hijack but differences are: Wheels (also wider and larger rolling diameter) Brakes Rear Diff (ALSD) Retuned ATTESSA 10mm lower suspension standard Stickers Rarity.... Given that there seems to be a shedload of V-Spec IIs floating around, I am pretty sure they have multiplied (and I have no reason to think or suggest mine is any more or less genuine than this car) however the 2 things that are the best indication (Model Code and VIN) say this is a V-specII, and they are harder to change than the brakes. I know that mine is missing the ALSD, again heard rumors of unreliability... To me this car is Genuine until a 1 owner car with complete history shows up with the same VIN. Good luck with the sale, hope it goes to someone who appreciates it for what it is.

AFAIK The point of the LED strips are as "DRLs" (Daytime running lights) the idea being that it makes you more visible than using your headlights (Proven safety step) while not having the adverse effects (globe life, power sap, glare etc) therefore they would be something you would want to have on during the day LEDs (Light emitting Diodes) are also very different to Xenons, which are a really bright, clear globe for your headlights, as for the Angel eyes only being on BMWs, type "Angel Eyes" into Ebay and see what you cannot get them for.... Have noticed though that Xenon driving lights etc are getting the ring around the outside of them a lot now as well Stand to be corrected

How many places have you asked this?

Auto GTRs don't exist.... Perhaps check the vin, or ask the seller? Surely they know what sort of gearbox is in it, or perhaps explaine exactly what you are asking..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/At...id-t327378.html please look here for all the step by step instructions