iplen

Ever accidentally walked into a gay bar, ordered a drink,sat down, started talking to some blokes and wondered what crap they were spewing.. Then looked around realised you have stumbled into the NA performance section...

Nope, you would need to install it too... IBT Believe it or not..

Mjtown, I should have paid a bit more attention (even the measurements make it pretty obvious) no more interneting before coffee Mine's fairly stock, but I think it has an intersting story behind it, I just need to find it out.. It has Nismo strut/body bracing and clutch slave, braided lines for brakes and clutch, some sort of twin plate, no Hicas, it had 2 harnesses in it, bonnet pins, oil cooler and the normal breathing mods, also 2 marks on the roof from where paint has been repaired on either side at exactly the same spot, like where a light bar has sat. However, it still had the speed limiter, ceramic turbos, stock suspension, and had clearly not been pulled apart all that recently. VIN is BNR32310112 which has been confirmed in FAST. The car itself is a bit rough paint wise, but that can be repaired.

15mm total is 7.5mm in ride height though

See plenty of people tracking much less car than that, personally, a Camira (it was a rally car, but it had SFA done to it) and a bog stock Mitsubishi Starion. Just get out there and enjoy it, some form of oil control (not sure if rb20s have the same issues as 26s) and cooling would be a great idea for the longevity of your engine though.

I wouldn't expect an NA 33 to spin a wheel either..

How did you think the honeycomb got there if it was not meant to be there? It doesn't exactly look like your regular carbon build up...

Just a light hone should clean that up, and maybe a little run in oil for the first 1000k....

I would think flaps would be a regular wear and tear item, like rubber.

and "only 14.5 psi" when the ceramic turbos are known to be hand grenades at 14 is kinda an issue... Having said that, the Exhaust wheel is generally the one that lets go, and it then spreads bit of ceramic turbine through the exhaust, and unless you are very lucky also back through the cylinders... How after 1 ceramic letting go you didn't A) have a motor let go B)upgrade to steel turbos is kinda confusing.. Just buy some proper turbos before you have to buy a new motor.

Fitted PMU club racers for a track day at Wakefield in May, but have only just had a chance to use them on the road: Track- F-ing unreal, braking not far off the 100m going into the last turn on Wakefield, braking that hard I was having trouble with submarining under the belt. Was boiling dot 4 Castrol fluid, but as soon as I had pedal pressure the thing was on it's nose again Road: makes me wonder why previous performance pads have had such an issue when cold, they bite when cold is easily as good as any road pad I have had in other cars. I still have not had the ABS come in, including on the track.. Will not think twice when they wear out.

SAU Nickname: Iplen Car Make and Model: 32 v-spec II Circuit Name: Wakefield Lap time: 1:11 ish Modifications Engine: 20psi, n1s, pods n' pipe Power: whatever that adds upto.. Suspension: Ohlins bought second hand on here Brakes: Project Mu club racer fronts. Tyres: old re55s, one had "over 100 laps- stuffed" written on it The time was in traffic, and hand timed, so this is more reference for the future..

Would be worth taking that auction sheet in and offering to burn it there and drive out for $30k.. Or next stop is Motor/Wheels, Performance Imports etc.. It's still a rare car, and as he is selling it he has to offer warranty.

Took a while to get back here, but what Mad said, would make more sense if going up the slope, but still my bet

Anyone got some 235-245/45 17 semis, I am pretty much just looking for something I can get away with 1 or 2 hillclimbs on. I am in Bathurst, so Sydney or closer would be good, prefer free to good home but willing to spend a couple of hundred if they have a bit more left in them

Reversing up or down the slope?

If it's a gear crunching you will feel it through the gear stick. The gearbox will handle a s#it load more than the 250 odd kw you are now putting through it. When you do pump too much through them they won't crunch a gear, they will destroy a gear, and that will be the end of your gearbox.. At what point does it make the sound? Is it only the sound? Also your car doesn't have 56,000k on it, so don't assume all the parts are that new..

Just give your 20 a good tune and a service, that's all it needs. Given that people are recommending that thread for help swapping an rb20 to an rb25det, have a guess what motor 32s run, or there is a website called goggle or something like that, it will tell you.

Sell car with RB20e to a p plater, buy car with RB25det. That's what you need for the conversion

Have r32 Gtr seats, need BOV, swaps plus cash?

Yeah, non turbo r34 Gtr must be build number 1 of 1, plenty of P platers you could sell it to for a fortune.

Not exactly in car, and not exactly circuit.. But I hope you enjoy rev limiters..

P.s: Does the dog come with sale?! That's what the ad is for isn't it?

Used to be able to get a ride on to steam a rear wheel.. Count?

Ova 9000