iplen

The force

Doesn't matter what you put in it, without a head it won't make squat I had only been search for general results, hadn't thought to be specific about a 4a, thanks for searching for me

I've got a 4age 20v for a rally car, and if my Gtr stops breaking stuff I will be rebuilding it, I have had a quick search, but came up with various conflicting answers, so: Given I cannot turbo it, just how much compression can I get away with? On 98 pump we were already running about 11.5 so the head design etc is clearly fairly good. Any one that has gone this way, what issues have you had? More importantly, what results did you get!!?

IIs were April 94 onwards only (as you have said) so yours would have to be a I. N1 bonnets were still alloy, not fiberglass. Mine still has all the warning labels as well, pretty sure they just put the warnings in no matter what. P.S. You really need to change the colour..

Not looking to buy yet, but other people might be thinking the same, is pick up an option? And if so where from?

Good point, forgot about AFMs, see if there is someone close by you can borrow one off, I have spare but it is in Bathurst

I don't think it will be timing moving based on that, but to check it, put a plug lead between #1 plug and coil, check the timing then turn it off and start it check it again. See if changes drastically.

Don't listen the haters man, buy the 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 25GT and hide a turbo in the sump, they won't be laughing so hard when you prove them wrong

I have also noticed after considerable time studying both that the top one is longer, bishes love 'em long too

Coil packs would be my first guess, pull the cover off the coils and let it idle at night, you will probably see the sparks coming off the coils out onto the cam covers. If not possibly ignition timing moving due to damage on the front of exhaust cam. Try the coils first IMO, but there are others who know better

You ask a question, people answer, then you get upset at them. They even gave you the answer you wanted, yes it's possible, via any number of ways. your only other option is to remove the turbos all together and run an NA ecu until you are on your open licence, but you will lose performance.

1 for keeps, what is left that can go wrong? You have a dream car, and you know what's been done and where it's at. Otherwise nothing for 25-30 will give you the buzz without having potential for probs. You will also be buying an unknown quantity.

Mine did the same, the damage with mine was mainly the nose of the cam, and the CAS to a lesser degree. The damage to cam is pretty obvious, if you look in the front of it the teeth should be square, and 1+mm across the top. Just Jap had the CAS second hand in good condition, the cam I just bought second hand off here

Wrong wording, would have expected the pedal to feel a bit soft before going straight to the floor. All ideas so far were ones we had considered but none seem to line up 100%. Was hoping someone might come up with something left field. We will put some ducting, check out the master cylinder and run some better fluid next time

With boiling fluid I would have expected to feel some fade prior to the pedal going completely, have got all the old stuff out (used a whole litre of fluid on the day) we were bleeding it to get the pedal back as well, we are tying the PMU fluid next time, but will try the master cylinder test when it is running again. Brakes were rediculously hot..

Will try it, but never had the problem on the street, which I thought I would have.

Took my 32 to Wakefield a few months ago, and had a different brake issue. The car is v-spec ii, and was running brand new TRW GP 600 fluid with PMU club racer front pads (don't know what the rears are..). I would get 8-9 laps into a run, with no probs at all, solid pedal, stopping like nothing I have felt before then the next corner the pedal would go to the floor.. It would come back the second or third time, and it would stop hard when the pedal came back.. Knockoff seemed to be the obvious answer, but I would do 2-3 laps slowly to let everything cool, go to the pits, where sitting still it would do the same thing. 30 seconds without touching the pedal, straight to the floor, second or third press I would have a full pedal.. This happened 3-4 times, any ideas??

Yep, spot on, only issue being that I have discovered mine touches the bonnet... It is not always touching and it is an incredibly light touch, but it does touch.

Turns out they are Speedflow fittings, the guy I got the bits from is away ATM so I will know early in the week. It is a 90deg fitting with one side that can spin, and we just drilled and tapped my alloy Nismo cap

We need to make a commitment that the next time this thread pops up we WILL go with it, yes, absolutely you can do, we all did it ourselves before we had our opens. The stock ecu works, just plug it in, the swap can be done in a weekend with a couple of mates etc... Just once, you know it will be worth it

I am running (after consulting someone who does more track time than me) a JustJap Autech style catch can, with a drain added to the front which goes in the top of the oil filler cap. It is a very simple and effective setup, running about a litre over is a good idea too. I spent a day at Wakefeild and there was not a spot of oil in the inlet plumping. You will need to do something prior to tracking it

JJ ( justjap.com ) are unreal and will ship to you, otherwise I am sure there will be someone similar in Adelaide. Don't rule out your local dealer either, take your VIN in and they will generally be able to order some surprising stuff

Been tuned since the big turbo was added? Will be feeding in a heap more air now..

Yeah, mine got blocked with bits of ceramic turbine... Was very slow to come on boost Did it suddenly stop making boost while you were driving? Was there a pop when it happened?

As Nev has said, if anyone thinks that bolting a set of flares made 1.3 seconds difference, I will pay good money for those flares!! I am also willing to bet the people who were protesting had diffusers etc which were questionable...