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Everything posted by sky20det
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Make: Nissan Model: 200SX S14A Luxury Year: 1999 Colour: Riviera Blue Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Mileage: 16x, xxx kms, with Original Log Books Registration: MAY 2013 Factory Options: Sunroof, Fog lights, Front Lip, Rear Spoiler, Side Skirts, Tweeters, ABS Aftermarket Options: GREDDY front mounted intercooler with custom piping which eliminates the need to cut a hole in the battery tray. AFTERMARKET Pod Filter GKTECH Bell Mouth Dump Pipe GKTECH Front Pipe with flexi pipe APEXI N1 Catback Exhaust BOSCH 040 Fuel Pump RDA Slotted Front and Rear Rotors QFM A1RM (K750) pads up front BENDIX General CT pads at rear CUSCO Zero 2 Coilovers all round CUSCO Rear Strut Brace EXEDY Button Clutch (NEW) and NEW Clutch Master Cylinder installed about 6 months ago Exterior: Rims in picture have now been sold; car will be sold with standard wheels. NO RWC Maybe open for swaps with cash my way for an EG/EK Civic or sr20det s13 Price: $12, 500 CONTACT THAI ON: 0401 189 586
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Misc Parts For Sale
sky20det replied to sky20det's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
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Hey guys just clearing a few parts i no longer need. Price is nego. I do not visit this forum much anymore so serious buyers pick up the phone and gimme a call/msg local buyers preferred and as per usual low ballers are ignored Thanks Item: EVO 8 MR DRIVER SIDE RECARO Condition: In very good condition, bolsters are all firm. No rail Price: $600 Item: Genuine Recaro SPG-N Condition: Ok seat in still good but material is worn and faded, couple of little holes on one bolster. Rare seat, pretty comfy as base is made wider than the SPG. Material/cushions can be ordered from overseas and seat will be like new!! No rail Price: $500 Item: Custom S14 3 inch turbo back exhaust. Condition: Good, slight scratches no physical damage. No Cat. Consists of dump screamer pipe, front pipe and catback with Magnaflow Muffler. Price: $400 Contact: Thai 0401 189 586 I do not visit the forum much. Please Call/SMS for quickest response. PMs and post may take a while to be replied to. Cheers Pictures:
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Hey guys chasing an R34 rear wiper arm + blade + cover for the bolt. HAS to be from an R34 as R32 and R33 is not the same bolt size. Hit me up on 0422 353 056. Cheers, Andrew
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As topic, im after a set of R32 GTR rims... Hit me up with what you guys have, price depending on condition, no tyres needed. Prefer SMS/Call as i dont come online often. Cheers, Andrew 0422 353 056
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hey guys i have a set (pair) of 8000K Xenon HID D2R globes for sale. i was going to install it for my mates 34 with factory Xenon however to my suprise, the ballasts on his car was removed during compliance and he now needs H1 globes. these will install DIRECTLY into the OEM fitting on R34s or S15s which still have the factory 4300K globes in there. upgrade your colour or brightness now! please note that these will fit perfectly as i bought them with a friend who still had his factory Xenon on his R34 and they are running beautifully at the moment. im only after what i paid for them, so price is $75 please call me on 0422 353 056 to arrange pickup from western suburbs melbourne, or i can post for an extra $10 Australia wide. Andrew
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I have some Top Quality German Technology HID kits for sale.. At the moment I have only H1 sizes at the moment (S14a, S15, R34, Accord Euro, Integra DC5 etc..) PLEASE NOTE: Cars fitted with factory Xenon/HID will require a differnt globe size. Color Temperatures available: 6000k, 8000k. Installation available if you live in Melbourne (Please call for price of installation). These kits are BRAND NEW and come with a 12 month warranty. Postage will cost $15 Australia wide. Local pickup from Western suburbs is available by appointment. All sizes and colours will be available shortly. Please call me with sizes you are interested in. Please contact Andrew on 0422 353 056.
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dam thats not something im ready to do myself. taking it to a workshop then. does it make any difference im using an oil filter sandwich plate? both electrical and mechanical gauges were hooked up to the sandwich plate as i left the stock sender+switch in.
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oil changes are always smooth. just dark oil. i have noticed however on first start of they day i can hear a "click".. but only once. i hope its just the backing plate. what needs to be removed to check if the backing plate has come loose? just the sump or do i need to remove all the timing gear?
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i've verified that i have an oil pressure problem. the stock gauge has never worked so i installed an electrical AND a mechanical and both say i have very low oil pressure. cold start will sit on around 20psi. when warm it idles at 5 psi, and when driving on low or high rpm it will go to about 18-20psi, but never higher than 20psi. it looks like either its a faulty pump or i've heard stories on the backing plat of the pump becoming loose and thus dropping oil pressure? how comon is it for rb oil pumps to die? a few ppl have told me they had a problem with low pressure and it turned out to be the screws on the backing plate have come out a bit of have come out completely. the car drives good, revs freely and makes good power (160rwkw) but on idle u can feel the motor jerking or bumping slightly. ive owned the car for 1 year and i believe its had low oil pressure the whole time. i wont be driving it much/hard till i get this sorted as i dont want to spin a bearing or blow any rings because of this. any feedback guys?
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the 7 blade un-evenly distributed one sounds like a falcon. that fan is engaging very often on my car. could a clutch fan thats on most of the time also be faulty? or is it only when it wont engage then its faulty?
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all clutch fans for rb20, rb25, rb26 and rb30 will fit on eachother?
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i recently founf out my clutch fan wasnt kicking on properly and helped my car to overheat. my one had the original 1990 rb20 clutch fan on it and was replaced with a fan from a 1989 model. blades are definately differnt as i had to trim them to get them to fit under the cooler piping, whereas my original one did not have to be trimmed. now my car sounds like those old falcons. fan is kicking on a lot but it sounds a bit stupid at times, but has fixed my overheating problem. now my question is: do different fan blades make different noises. im talking in louder and quieter. i like the fact that the clutch fan i have now is working properly but the blades are just too dam noisy. my fan that i took off had evenly distributed blades whereas the one i have on it now has different looking ones and they are not distributed around the centre evenly. its just the way it was made.. if you guys understand that.
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i got 8000k colour temperature lights from a friend who got them overseas. if u really want a set i might be able to hook u up... 32w, 8000k H3 hid xenon lights. note the r32 projectors take H3C globes but as most will know, the H3C and H3 are the exact same shape and base, thus making it perfect to use H3 HID globes.
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markimak ur on the money.. it sounds more like leaking injectors to me. leaking injectors when hot will flood the throttle body with petrol if left for a period after a drive.. GreddyGo, im assuming it starts perfectly when the car is completely cold in the morning? if so, u have at least one leaking injector. the reason it will start good when cold is the petrol that has flooded the throttle body will, overnight evaporate thus letting the car start easily. if this is your problem, take out all the injectors and have them pressure tested and hopefully which ever one is leaking can be cleaned. sometimes crap will deopsit on the end of the injector therefore not letting it close properly and thus causes the leaking.
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ZENNON, the adjustment that has the gears does NOT adjust height... the height screw is located towards the underside of the projector.. it looks exactly like the horizontal adjustment screw... im assuming the adjustment via the screw that has the gears is for focus.. but winding mine all the way left and right does not focus anything.. its gotta do something.. here is a pic of my hids... the photo does not do justice to how they really look at night.. more purple/white as i have the 8000k colour temperature hids.
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yeah ill get a pic up hopefully 2morrow night.. have u managed to take of the adjusting height screw and wound it manually yet?
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yeah sounds like a slipping clutch to me.. will it stall if u leave it in first, hold the brakes a bit and drop the clutch slowly?
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unfortunately the skylines and the rb series motors are nutorious for idle problems/hunting. i had a major one where my car would: 1) refuse to rev past 2000-3000rpm when cold - replaced air regulator (cold start idle up solenoid) 2) refuse to drop idle down under 1000-1100rpm when warm. sometimes it stayed at 1500rpm so i had to turn the car off when warm and she would then idle at 1000-1100rpm. i had to wind the idle screw all the way in and the car's electrical system (air regulator valve) kept the idle up. when i disconnected the aac valve, the idle dropped so low the car stalled. to fix i found an easy way to find and fix 3 vac leaks, and then adjusted mt TPS to the factory setting of 0.5v closed. now my idle is perfect. my afm was ok as i tried a friends one and it didnt help. also because i had my idle screw right in my car wouldnt turn on without my foot on the gas a bit. now i can (as your suppost to) turn the key without pressing any gas and the car's idle up will help kick the motor over. now when the car is warm, when i disconnect the aac, the idle doesnt change, so i know at normal temp, the idle will stay at about 800-900rpm with no help from the aac and air regulator valves. so to sum up i guess u should check firstly your tps signal is 0.5v when the throttle is fully closed, then check for vac leaks then check the air regulator. you can open it up and clean it, but i went brand new from japan.. hope this helps