sky20det

cheers zennon.. big help.. mines like that too winding the height does nothing so my gears must be broken too.. ive just installed hid headlights on my r32 projectors.. looks very nice and so much more clearer using standard r32 wiring! highly recommended is it hard getting the lower screw off the housing? not much room there

hmmm thats pretty rich.. but then again u have an rb25 and i have rb20.. maybe u drive too hard..

i would like to know about this also. after installing my fmic on a bit of an angle and moving my horns up to the only place catching cold air for the radiator the car sometimes heats up a bit when its hot. my clutch fan still seems ok and ive replaced the thermostat with a standard one. which thermostat is lower in temp and suits the r32? i used the one listed for the rb30 r31 skyline one.

u most likely need a ful pressure gauge hooked up to ur fuel line.. when u pinch the fuel line with some pliers the return line should increase the fuel pressure.

ur car is runing rich hey... i bet not as rich as mine.. i get about 380-390kms per full tank.. and i mean FULL tank. ive got full exhaust, upgraded fuel pump and fmic.. thats it! very rich over here but i dont mind.

tom9999 maybe also try replacing the O2 sensor and make sure the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose is connected properly.. ive adjusted my TPS to 0.5v on my r32 and it has fixed my high idle problem.

tom9999 if ur car runs rich it may be a few different things. as long as its running rich its much safer than lean.

sorry i was looking at the rb25 section.. i see now that the rb20 needs 0.5v fully closed.. am i correct in saying this? would 0.1v (0.6v instead of 0.5v) cause a little bit of a higher idle?

how do i do it. ive done numerous searches, but cannot find out how to exactly. ive read here and in the manual u need approx 0.6v closed and 4v fully opened. i measured the signal cable (middle) when i disconnected the harness but from that side of things im getting battery 12v from the middle cable. from the TPS side i get nothing, obviously as ive disconnected the harness.. can someone help me adjust or check if my TPS is out of place? cheers andrew

hi, need an air con compressor for my r32 gts-t. needs to be in good working order. prefer melb

just installed a FMIC on my R32.. and i have to say it was very easy. ive uploaded some pics for you guys whos thinking about doing this.. and ive also wrote a little bit on what needs to be done.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=144788&hl=

thank you, feel free to pm me or email me any questions you guys may have.. im more than happy to help.

this thread is basically for all those who are or who are thinking of self installing a universal front mount intercooler kit on their skyline r32 gts-t (dont think there would be too much difference for a gtr, but dont quote me) i dont know too much about cars, only a little more than the average joe. i dont even know how to hook up my mechanical boost controller yet! basically what im trying to say is that it IS NOT A HARD job to do. and for all you guys thinking you have to cut the re-enforcement (reo) bar, WRONG! most people make the mistake of thinking you HAVE TO mount the cooler dead vertical. the cooler kit was designed to be mounted on an angle. if you are stressing about best air flow, probaly you should mount it vertical. i personally dont mind. after installing it, and taking it for a spin, mounting it on an angle didnt seem to make a difference as the cooler was dead cold after a drive anyway. the only drama that i had was getting the pipe on the left (one under the battery tray) to fit. i had to trim off a section off it (you can see it in the pic with the BLACK hose connecting the pipe back together). i also had to trim a bit off the top of it to get it to connect back to the crossover pipe. generally i think this is because they designed the kit to fit 32's, 33's and 34 gts-ts/gtts. i had minimal tools. got my hands on an angle grinder and thats about it. i mounted to cooler parralel with the bonnet catch hinge (basically closest i could get to the frame). this proved the only option anyway as the pipe coming off the turbo fitted exactly onto the end tank. there was no room for play there. i also had to cut the section that seperated the two standard intercooler pipes off to create a long oval hole. as for cutting the hole under the battery, i learnt that using a cheap hole saw designed for wood didnt work. it just went blunt! so i ended up using the angle grinder to cut a square hole. bunnings wanted around $90 for a good quality 3" hole saw with adaptor. i couldnt justify buying it simply for one hole. so i made do without. as you can see from the pictures, i didnt have to cut an inch off the reo bar, NOTHING! i believe you can get into some trouble in the event of an accident if you trim the reo bar from your insurance company. you cant see it, but i used the included long brackets to secure the cooler to the under body of my car. just the top frame wont hold it. i had to drill two little holes down there to secure it. as for the top frame, i bought a square alumininum pipe and an L shaped hinge (also from bunnings). measured where i had to drill holes, and drilled! the angle grinder i used to cut the plastic front bar went through it like butter! i also did that cutting by free hand tools i used: screwdrivers drill angle grinder socket wrenches spanners to conclude, it took me the good of one day from morning to afternoon to get the front bar off, mount the cooler and pipes, cut the holes and put the bar back on. before i started, i couldnt find any real deep info on this universal intercooler kit installation. i hope these pictures and info helps you guys out.

hi guys, did a search but cant find any info that really helps how do i remove the r32 gts-t type m front bar? im assuming you have to take the bumper skin off before taking off the re-enforcement bar? any info would be appreciated.

HICAS please.. i didnt know there was a difference.

im in need of one in good working order, and must not leak power steering fluid. can pickup if its in melbourne

if my brushes are worn, can i pick up a whole regulator from autobarn? or can i only get the brushes and solder them on?

do skyline (r32 in my case) use alternators that have brushes which wear out in time and are replaceable? ive changed the brushes on a few cars which have had charging problems, and that fixed it up good. just wondering if skyline alternators do too.

can anyone help me try to find the problem?

as topic states, im after one of these in good working order. preferably in melbourne

is the connector plug for the r33 the same? or do i have to cut the wires and rejoin them? how about r34 rb25det afm? will that work?

im after a replacement afm, but am unsure as to which ones i can use in my r32 with an rb20det. are r33 and r34 ones compatible?

anything i can do to help it move?

when i switch on my heater/fan, nothing comes out of the middle/two side vents. no air comes out of these vents regarless if i switch it to the top vents, or if i switch it to the feet vents. air con on or not still the same the only place air will blow out of is those 2 little circle vents that sit all the way in the top of the dash, near the windscreens. the thing is, hot air still blows out of those holes, or cold air if i set it. but nothing comes out of the middle and two side vents. ive pulled out the stereo looked around under there to see if any plastic heater pipes have fallen off, and looked around under the steering wheel area but everything looks in place. all fuses are not burnt either. the funny thing is all of a sudden it stopped working. used to work fine.

where did u buy the full kit for 700?