sky20det

could be as simple as the power steering fluid is a bit low.. top it up see how that goes

i have low idle when i switch on the rear dimister and or the headlights at night. i suspect the afm is faulty. my question is: is the r33 afm for the rb25det compatible with the r32? if it is, will it just plug in to the connector? or do i have to cut and strip the wires and reconnect? what other afms are compatible? rb30? rb26? etc..

thanks for the help dude

does the r32 come with a space saver or an actual rim? does anyone know which space saver will fit the r32 stud pattern? its 5-stud ive never had a spare, so i dont know if it originally came with a space saver, or an actual rim

does anyone know at least which space saver will fit? ive never had a spare, so i dont know if it originally came with a space saver, or an actual rim

as topic states, need a space saver spare tyre to suit Skyline R32 Gts-t. need it to be in melbourne.. will pickup

as topic states need an rb20det manual stock ecu preferably in melbourne, but willing to pay postage costs.

im pretty sure the r33 is the same as r32. yes u are on the right track, the black silicone is the only thing left holding the light in place after the screws are removed. i used a hair dryer to heat up around the glue and when it was hot enough, it came out. all you have to do is get the dryer and heat up the silicone up evenly (heat up all the silicone at the same time) using a circular motion. at the same time apply some force with the other hand and slowly as the silicone heats up, the light will slowly pop out. just try to pop it out quick when the silicone starts to go, as you dont want to make a mess of it by stretching it everywhere. good luck

how about this one guys.. mine works, but only catch is that only the passenger door will trigger the light, drivers side does not.. so i just took off the back seat and wired the passengers door wire to the drivers side wire... too much trouble to find where the fault is. works good and no one will know

are you sure u want 3 red marks on the LEFT? this is what i thought it should look like when set to 15degs refer to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73824 looking at the above pic, when my CAS is fully CLOCKWISE, i get ONE mark on the reference mark, and TWO to the RIGHT (not 3 like above), thats y i say i cant get 15, but only 10degs... because the CAS wont turn any further clockwise

ok my car does the same.. its an r32 gts-t manual. on first startup of the day, i have to play with the gas a bit to get it to turn on. then about 2 mins later it drops idle from 1200rpm to about 800rpm and sounds like its really struggling. like R32FOURDOOR said, i also have this "flat spot" where even though im stepping on the gas pedal, the car doesnt want to rev past the 1500rpm mark. it even starts to make boost while staying at this flat sopt. when my car warms up, it is almost gone. just occasionally comes back when i slow down to stop at the lights. it almost stalls and probably will if i dont put a bit of gas on. ive tried everything.. clean AAC, AFM, new timing belt, idle adjustments etc but no good. the other thing i want to mention is that when i try to adjust my idle, i can get it to about 850rpm WITHOUT the AAC valve connector plug in (idle not controlled by ECU), but as soon as it is plugged back in the ECU sends the idle up to around 1300rpm. the manual says the adjustable screw on the ECU should be turned fully ANTI-CLOCKWISE, but it also states that the idle can be adjusted a further 250rpm. but turning mine a little or a lot DOES NOT do anything to the idle..

does anyone know if the auto ecu will work on a manual car?

i need a standard ECU for my 90' gts-t manual type-m RB20DET. does anyone have one for sale? please contact me on 0422 353056 or leave your contact details in my pm cheers andrew

arent u located in adelaide but?

as topic states, i need URGENTLY an r32 gts-t radiator (is gtr the same?). damage to the core is ok, as i only need the top tank off it.. the part where the radiator hose connects to mine (plastic bit) has broken and will no longer hold the hose to it no more.. need it to be in melbourne. please call me on 0422 353056 if you can help me out.. cheers

timing belt will be changed/looked at to see if its mis-aligned in one more week.. have it booked in already. to check if the valve timing is correct, i would have to remove the top cam cover.. do i have to remove the radiator to get to it?

thats the thing, i cant register 20 or 25 degs. if i start to rotate the CAS (from the middle position) a slight bit anti-clockwise, the red marks move even more far away from the referencing mark on the block (to the left of it). ok this is what is happening.. i want to set the timing to 15degs. so i have to get 3 red marks to appear on the RHS of the referencing mark. but thats where my problem lies.. i cant get anymore than 2 red marks to go past the referencing point.. when the CAS is fully clockwise, i can only just get 2 red lines to appear on the RHS of the referencing point.. so this tells me that my timing is not even at 10degs..!

so is my timing now (as i described) referred to as ADVANCED or RETARDED? as in when its set UNDER 15deg is it advanced or retarded? and when it is set ABOVE 15deg is it advanced or retarded?

sorry BH_SLO32, i may have gotten "advanced" and "retarded" mixed up. its just when i got it on the dyno, the mechanic said it was VERY advanced.. so thats y im confused... ok this is what i see when i look and adjust the timing... with the CAS in the MIDDLE position, the red marks on the pulley DO NOT go past the referencing mark on the block. when turned to the LEFT a bit, the red marks (obviously) go to the left of the referencing mark on the block. now we want to set it to 15 degs, so i try turning the CAS to the RIGHT to get 3 red marks on the RHS of the referencing mark. but even with the CAS turned all the way to the RIGHT, i cant get 15 deg, only close to 10...

sorry that my explanation is a bit misleading. 1. the CAS is definately rotated FULLY CLOCKWISE. yes it should indicate that the timing is fully retarded. if i return the CAS to around the middle (which i understand it should be for 15 degs BTDC) it becomes very advanced (no lines on the RHS of the mark on the block which we use to read the timing). i think from looking at the manual its 20 or 25 degs? 2. after it went on the dyno, the fuel mixtures showed that it was lean. very constant 0.9 all the way through the graph. turbo cars are meant to be running at 0.8 arent they? i dunno what units the fuel mixtures are in. 3. since upgrading the fuel mixtures, i have yet to re-check the fuel pressure or put it back on the dyno. im just wondering if all the information supplied above would cause the problems i am having with my timing/idle/drivability of the car. i am under the impression (from the seller) that my car has a tuned ECU. but it has a standard ECU in it. which leads me to the conclusion that it may be re-mapped. another thing that i havn't meantioned is that when i adjust the idle speed without the "AAC electrical connection (brown)" connected, i set it to about 850rpm, and when the AAC electrical connection (brown)" is reconnected, it idles up to about 1200rpm. i use the idle adjustment screw on the AAC and also the one on the ECU. the one on the ECU is now fully turned to the left, but it wont idle down. infact, the idle doesnt change at all when turning the adjustment screw to the right on the ecu. could the incorrent idle be affecting my timing also? should i consider trying another rb20det ECU?

hi.. as said in the topic the car runs very badly. the crank angle sensor has to be turned ALL THE WAY to the RIGHT to get the timing to almost 10, but not even 10 degrees. the idle speed has to be turned up a bit to keep it from reving too low and almost stalling (sometimes). it also struggles to rev up in gears sometimes seems like there is not enough fuel.. it was on the dyno, and running very advanced timing, and the dyno showed that it was very lean.. like 0.9 all the way through. at first the guy thought it may have a non turbo ECU in it, but after checking the fuel pressure he told me the pump was very weak and that it needed to be changed. i since have upgraded to a walbro in-tank fuel pump, new ryco fuel filter and even bought a 2nd hand crank angle sensor off a working rb20det, but still every problem is the same. i now think that it may be that the timing belt is worn or mis-aligned.. would a timing belt that is misaligned or worn too much cause all these problems i am having? the car is an r32 gts-t. full 3" exhaust and pod filter. everything else stock.

can anybody recommend a good place to replace my timing belt in melbourne for a decent price? its for an r32 gts-t..

well.. im not too sure what size the standard turbo back (dump) pipe is.. but it will give better performace if you get a larger dump pipe.. think about it as you have a large 3.5" cat-back system, the exhaust from the turbo still must squeeze though the standard dump pipe before reaching the 3.5" pipe after the cat. it kinda defeats the whole purpose.. better to go and get a bigger dump pipe and hi-flow cat then your car will be able to breathe better

its just like brake fluid and clutch fluid is the same.. says so on the bottle dot 3 brake fluid is also used in hydro clutch systems..

what is the timing settings adjusted by the crank angle sensor for an rb20det? i think i heard something like 14? with a timing light, i know i have to look at some red lines or something on the pulley, but i dont know how many to set the timing of the car to stock.. any help is always appreciated.. cheerz