rb20-calais

good info

fridge or dishwasher box! Evan

fronts sold to me

wierd last night after i broke the allan key i sprayed tyhe shit out of it with wd40, 30mins later and a few hits and whoosh, it works again, freaky but good, thanks for the info! Evan

i wish you werent in melb i would take the 235's for sure, bummer... if you find out how much post is for the two I might still take them if your interested. Evan

bump

ok, had a go at getting the bov off, no avail.... its wedged in my guard and i snapped an allan key, looks like i am going to woirkshop tomorrow. there was heaps of mud, etc near it from a recent drift day that i went off a few times at, i think the dirt is what has made it seize, it must of been getting stuck open when it was hissing just before it siezed. thanks for the help guys. Evan

just come to the shire, not only do the bouncers think they aregreat, everyone does! but what can i say /me hugs shire and northies Evan

Guys and girls, I probably sound like a n00b but I need piece of mind and some ideas. Yesterday it was wet and while doing some circle work my BOV (turbosmart type II) sounded like it was pissing out air (shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) anyway today it wont work at all even at 18psi when I let off the gas the car lets out a god almighty flutter that doesnt sound good for the turbo at all (possibly doesnt matter). I checked the vacum lines to the BOV and they are connected both sides and there are no vacum leaks. Questions ------------- 1) Do BOV's just stop working? 2) Running 18psi (hks2530) and having NO BOV is bad for the turbo? 3) Any ideas what it could be Thanks in advance guys & girls, Evan

Also I have an E-boost and it controls boost perfectly and I love the thing, I took my boost guage out because I stopped looking at it once I got the e-boost as it has a big digital readout. If you would like to save some money I would suggest it. check www.turbosmart.com.au to see what it looks like and if it is your style, remember Japanese name brands are not always the best and supporting local companies will help our economy (although i am unsure if turbosmart is aussie) however in some instances jap brands are the go, the experience on this forum is great and people will help you choose components. My recommendation is the e-boost just because instead of ie. AVCR ($550-$700) jap boost guage ($150+) you get the e-boost for RRP $750 but search around I got mine for $480 and it hadf only been used a few times and was perfect! (thanks slyr33 Evan

EBC's are more expensive but ar also better at controlling boost, bring boost on quicker and have a much greater functionality. However they are more expensive (5+ times more expensive). It all depends where you want to go with the car in the future and if you are looking at keeping the car and doing further modifications. You will be able to up the boost to 12psi from the standard 10psi without a FMIC although the car might pop and fart a bit. Fuel consumption in your case would be equivalent to power so with the slight power increase at full power you will use more fuel but when driving normally consumption will be the same. A dump pipe is the section of the exaust from the turbo to the front pipe, it exits the turbo and travels around 250mm where there is a flange connecting it to the front pipe which leads to the CAT. You will not need any other parts (ecu, etc) to run higher boost. However a FMIC would be beneficial. an R32 with 3" exaust should make around 125rwkw on stock boost, if you invest in a FMIC and bleed valve running 13psi you should be able to get 140-150rwkw. That would be my plan of attack if I was you. For FMIC you cant beat the HYBRID kits for around $1100 and you should be able to get a bleed valve fairly cheaply ($100). Hope that helps, Evan

I have a Wolf 3d V4 installed and tuned and its great, I am very impressed with it. I would choose a ECU based on my tuners preference as long as it is a major player in the market. Tuning is everything. Evan

i think its AP engineering, for reference.

i think the plugs have something to do with the reverse light on the dash (if skylines have them? but my skyline box turns my vl one on) and the reverse lights. Evan

in all honesty i have a feeling the GTRS will give 250rwkw, maybe it would with subsancial boost? I reckon the PFC might be a better option. Example of my thinking. My rb20 gearbox shifts well but is very noisy, because I drive the car daily I have just bought an RB25 box. I could of bought an exaust manifold, cams for the same price and had more power, but driving the car wont be as enjoyable. What I am trying to say is with the PFC as others have said the car will be a joy to drive and with the difference in average power I think you will be happy. You are making great power as it is. Good luck, Evan

put me down for one rb25, 90% .. keep us updated

To be honest I love the e-boost, boost comes on fast, smooth and holds beautifully. Also I have it mounted below the steering wheel and to the left, I actually find while giving it a poke that the boost is much easier to read with a big digital readout than an analog one that was near the a-pillar. Very happy. Evan

more info, whats standard weight? Evan

my hks actuator is 10psi (same as rb20 stock) it holds 10, 15 and 17psi (my 3 boost settings) perfectly with the e-boost. I expected it to be a 1bar actuator but i am happy it is not. Evan

lol, so any times? or dont you want to say? Evan

Aus post allow 20kg per parcel. Evan

did you run the GTS4 ? Evan

wish this was in a month or so, however might still be interested. Evan

i reckon T51R SPL BB Evan

sky guy, lern english betterer and maybe yood b abl 2 b undistoud