D_Stirls

The problem with then is that it isn't a completely new turbo it's just a compressor wheel, the talk now is that the X3076 is now a miss matched turbo and you can see why as the turbine wheel is the same and now has to power a 115hp bigger compressor wheel, and it take shaft power to move air regardless of the lower inertia, and the shaft power come from the turbine. The X3076R is basically now similar to a GT3082R as the compressor flows the same as the 82mm GT wheel and the turbine is a 60mm GT30 item. Personally I'd be interested in seeing what the X3071R would flow in a lower trim.

I agree that using these wheels in highflow applications will not yield the results that the compressor is capable of so you in effect have all the lag but none of the power associated with a large compressor. The question that you ask is the question that is on every ones lips, and i think the answer will be that they will be laggier. I can't see how they can be more responsive (even with the billet wheel) and by the looks of that 522hp graph it looks like full boost was around ~4800rpm (judging by the torque curve). Now i would assume that it is running a large rear housing but that is in no way responsive in my book. I'm also wondering (with the X3071) how much of the gains are due to the different design and how much is due to the increased trim. I was going to run a TS X3071 on my CA but if your not getting full boost until 4800 on a 2.5 litre then i can only imagine what it'll be like on a 1.8 litre.

If that was the one that was run on the WRX, then apparently the turbo is bogus. It's a rebuilt turbo that the user (OP) had delivered 4 months before Garrett had released the GTX wheels. Read post #60 on page 3. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2034214

OP are you talking eBoost Street or eBoost 2?

Do you like some BRAP with your lawn mowing, Here is the answer. It's the only Lawn mower I've ever seen on a dyno, LOL

As I'm just about to run an a new engine i was wondering what the advantage is in testing run in oil, as you would expect there to be all sorts of metals (EDIT! I mean High Levels) in there as things bed in (obviously you don't want to much bearing metals though). If you were only going to do one analysis would it be better to do it on the first change or say after 500-1000km's?

Yeah i was going to write some but i have no first hand experiance only what i have read. The TD06SH should be laggier dues to the extra inertia of the wheel and the fact that the wheel is less restrictive due to (amongst other things) it's bigger exducer. The filp side to this is that it will make more power due to it being less restrictive. From what i have read (and Trent would have more to say on this) the SL2 version of the turbine wheel used in the T67 was designed to be used with smaller capacity (i.e. SR20's etc) engines in an effort to make them more responsive but the flip side is that they will make slightly less power.

These guys are cheaper buy around $300 http://www.turbo-kits.com They haven't got them listed but they do have access to them. Just send them an email asking for what you want and list what turbine housing your are after (they can supply all the housings that ATP list for example) and they get back to you within 24 hours. With the 0.78 Twins Scroll housing they gave me a price of US$1429 + Postage.

Hey Disco, Can you give any advice on what is the better Split Pulse housing out of the 0.78A/R and the 0.82 A/R that are available for the GT30 turbos. This is for a 1.8 litre engine BTW (CA18det). Cheers

The 26 ports between the manifold and turbo are smaller, yo uwill see when you look at them that the manifold will have only 1/2 to 2/3's open. That is what you are porting. I wouldn't touch the manifold the head ports, but you can give them a touch up if you want; but the main reason why people port the 26 manifold is due to the turbo port size. That is what i mean about using the gasket as a template, line the turbo gasket up with the port, etch the inside port shape on the manifold and then cut loose with the die grinder.

yeah which would be about what i would charge. Just use a gasket as a template and away you go.

the porting you can do yourself if you have a die grinder. As for the coating i'm just about to call these guys (which are the guys who developed the Ceramic Coating Process). http://www.pacemaker.com.au/ceramic_coat.html http://www.yellowpages.com.au/sa/richmond/ceramic-coat-australia-13592062-listing.html If you really get stuck on the porting let me know.

Thanks Trent, reassuring to know. The doner engine was a standard engine that still had a side mount intercooler and was running a SR T25G. The boost was wound up to 14 PSI (untuned) and the car was flogged (by me, so i should punch myself in the throat). I had a spare engine that was in very good condition where as this engine was well tired (120psi compression) so i flogged it until it did a HG and then put in the good engine. The good engine was the one that i just pulled out (made 217kw) and i pulled it out because i didn't want to push it any further as it's still in good condition. The SXOC (British 200SX forum) guys quite often take the quench pads out on the CA's just as a matter of course in their big power builds so, i think it will be fine in terms of then being removed. Personally I would leave them in except for the fact that there would have been issues in this case as there were a lot of sharp points in the damage which would have been propagation areas for sure. I'll will post up the results once the GTX3071R goes on. Initially it'll be run with the current turbo (GT2871R) and some HKS 264x9.0 cams but in March/April i'll put the new turbo on with E85 and i'll be using a Haltech E8 for the ECU.

The best of the 3 head that I have i kept to use as a solid head if i decide to setup up a solid head down the track. As for swapping this head for another this head has cost me $1100 for the machining/porting +$250 for parts so that isn't financially an option anymore.

What ECU are you running?

I'm building a CA18DET and have had a machinist here in SA do all the machining including the head. The head that i gave them had some Det' damage on the quench pads on the exhaust side. When i gave them the head i asked them to take the damaged area out as there were a lot of sharp point and I though that there was a risk that it could cause Det' had it been left as it was. When i picked up the head they hadn't removed the area so i left it with them to fix up and came back later. The second time it had been done and collected the head. I'm just at the point of finishing putting the engine together and i have noticed that when they removed the damaged area thay haven't taken the valves out and they have touched the exhaust valves with the grinder. I was wondering whether the exhaust valves are coated and or whether the marked exhaust valves will cause a hotspot and the issues that come with that. P.S. The plans for the engine are ~300kw using a Twin Scroll GTX3071R. I also supplied the guides and the Valve Stem Seals to go in the head, i was wondering if it was common practise to do the porting after the new guides are installed in the head?

FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT!

Chronic you have a PM

I just got a Quote from a GTX3071R with the twin scroll 0.78A/R housing for US$1420 + postage. SO even if it's $200 to get it here it's still way under $2200

You can set what ever timing lock value you want with the haltech's. In ignition setup click Lock Timing and set it at 15 (if that's what you want to look for) or you can leave it at 10. If you leave it at 10 adjust your timing until you see the 10 degree mark line up and if you change it to 15 look for the 15 degree mark. Once you have set the timing unclick the Lock Timing box. After you unlocked the timing box the timing will change when you rev it as it will be running of the ignition maps not just a locked timing value.

I was wondering if you could add a State "Filter" (don't know if this is the name for it) on the for sale section. So when you are in the sale section you can limit the search to the state you are in if you want of view all the states topics by default, Similar to what is on NS.com

Apparently PM are down for the time being. Just email me on; [email protected]

Ok Guys i have found a seller in Australia and The price is $200 and the order will be put in at the end of this week or the beginning of next. So if you want to get in on this PM me and i'll send you that bank details. I would prefer to have people pick them up but if you really need it to be posted i'll put it in an express post bag (which i think is $15). I found out that the reason the international sellers wouldn't send them overseas was because the warranty only covers the country they are sold in; so if i brought them in from the states they wouldn't have a warranty. So these have a warranty as they are from an Australian seller.

you could run it on 91 if you want, you just got to run it off boost and with low throttle %'s and you won't be near the knock threshold. If your worried just put some octane booster in 95 octane and you'll be laughing.

That was a rumour that was going around for years but apparently they have the same part number so they are infact the same. R32 Vs Ceffy that is, R33 is definitely different.