D_Stirls

MLS gaskets require a certain finish on both the surfaces, if you are just going to change the head gasket and not going to get the surfaces machined (which would require the engine to be fully stripped) then just use the factory organic head gasket, and in that case you might as well leave the one that is in there until it blows and then change it. The head studs can be reused.

never been, but not scared. Prefer not to have to bother but not to much stress if i ever have too.

i have one as well ryan. Got it to rego a rb25/30 in the future.

Brother in laws Evo 7RS running 25psi on pump fuel 260 awkw on steve knights dyno. Slight change though as it's running a 10.5 rear from another model evo. EDIT!! It has a 3 inch exhaust as well but thats still a stock car in my book.

I hope you forgot the itallics. Stock GTR's are doughy pieces of shit, they are just a good base to start from. Oh and EVO's are a better base to start from and shit all over GTR's for bang for buck. Stock EVO 6.5, 7, 8, 9 or 10 with boost will pull 250kw and do 1:18's on semi'saround Mallala. where as GTR's with 15K put in them still don't pull those times. and you can this stock EVO for under 20k.

Doesn't a T67 run TD06SL2 rear wheel? Have a look all the spec's are here? From what i can see there is no difference between a TD06SL2-25G and a T67 it looks to be the just Trust name for it? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a251041-

1991 model not the pick of the 26 engines, due to short oil pump drive. Those KM's aren't genuine, but then 95% of imports aren't. The ATTESSA Clutches will be hurting at the moment as the tyres have different rolling diameters, i'd be pulling the 4wd fuse to drive it back, but then i'l be steering well wide of this car anyway. I suspect that it's had other mods that have been taken off as the AFM wiring has been hacked at some point, and the inter cooler piping looks to be made up of bits and pieces. It's missing the cam belt cover but no adjustable gears??? I'll put money on the fact that this example will cost you 25K before you get it running like a GTR that you would pay 20K for. IF this has receipts it's a much better buy; http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1230FDE3BD56 Even this one with receipts (but it's in WA); http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1230FDE3BD56

i duel port actuator should work but you need a boost controller that can control them. If you run the controller as if you were running an external gate i can't see why it wouldn't work. Basically you are giving the spring a helping hand in holding the gate close with boost pressure. Something like one of these setups;

^^^ sounds like you had a leak down test not a compression test, so those numbers are % not pressures. People also have to remember that if you play with cam timing or you have different cams then comparing to factory compression figures will tell you nothing.

Think that had more to do with him doing an armed robbery of a hotel in Nth Adelaide and then confronting the police with a shot gun. That'll get you shot in most places. And as some one who was held up at gun point a month ago they should have revived him and shot him again, slowly. He was a career criminal that had been convicted of a number of violent crimes and had only just been released from prison. No great loss really, star-force did us all a favour .

AFAIK a GT3040 is another name for the same turbo so look for results from people running a GT3040

you can set up nistunes with an number of different tunes. It's not the normal board though i think. http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/daughterboards.shtml Actually after reading this it's just SR20's and it isn't a nistune board but a different daughterboard

Also include their AFR gauge setups in the group buy as they are a good bit of gear as well.

As others have said, i don't think that you can conclude anything for what is essentially a "mail order" tune. Due to the fact they aren't a tune specific to any engine they can't be as "on the edge" as other tunes that are done on the car that will be running the tune. Personally i think that MBT tuning will be the way of the future in terms of timing as the results are better and generally they are safer as "less/ideal" timing is used. The only down side is the cost at the moment due to the dyno time needed.

Those who are looking at running surge tanks put one of these in your tank and you'll know exactly what ethanol content you are running all the time. http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.htm

I wouldn't suggest you do this but have a read. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...-M-t214053.html

Yeah there's a few things you have to do in terms of Transport SA for this to work but i'll discuss this with you in person rather than on a public forum Are you on my FB? EDIT!! Just added you

Just keep the factory one that you have taken off and swap it back. Won't take more than a couple hours on a GTT and after you have done it a couple times you be able to do it in under 90 minutes. With my car i have a complete stock engine setup so if i get defected with the built engine i'll just swap the whole engine over, a lot easier than taking cam out, swapping injectors, reattaching all the emissions stuff and standard IAA.

Yeah Rann's tough stance on crime seems to be going well hey.

They aren't as efficient as the Garrett version with the proper Garrett housings. But you pay the price difference. The HKS Turbine housings are even better again.

Yeah it's a typo it's $1963 there is a cost for the internal gate housings as the Twin Scoll external gate version that i was looking at getting only came to $1770 posted. For $1963 you could probably find one here but make sure it's the full 60mm turbine wheel version not the cropped 56.5mm version.

I deleted it. I thought after i posted it i didn't want it up there. Did you get the pictures?

The T3 housing i the thing that's not easy to come by. I'm pretty sure that Ryans GT2871R was actually a GT-RS, which is the same turbo except that HKS offer a T3 turbine housing where as Garrett don't. That is why i'm suggesting buying the complete turbo and swapping just the rear housings.ATP offer aftermarket T3 housings for the T28 based turbos though. I GT3071R will be $11963 posted from the states (i think it's canada actually). That's a 0.82 A/R with the 2.75 inlet 2 inch out compressor housing (which looks closer to the factory turbo than the 4 inch inlet version. I just had a look and ATP will do you a 2871R CHRA and compressor housing for $1204 posted. A complete GT2871R will be round the $1600 mark posted, but then you can sell the GT2530 complete.

The NS111 wheel is the T28 9 blade turbine wheel. I thnk that you will find it's cheaper to buy a complete CHRA than to buy just the compressor wheel, get the housing machined to fit and then get the assembly balanced. Infact it might be the cheapest to get a complete GT2871R swap the T2 turbine housing over with the T3 housing on your 2530 then sell the 2530 as a complete turbo, going this route you will probably on be paying a few hundred once the 2530's sold, and you can swap the housings yourself. As for the cam they should have the lift and duration stamped on the back end of the cam and the shaft itself will have Tomei cast into it. EDIT!! Looks like i could be wrong about Tomei being cast into the cam as i have just look at some pictures and it looks like they don't. I know my HKS do but Tomei mustn't.

It would be depending on the power that you were chasing. A GT3071R will support 270>300kw (with a big rear housing) but will be laggier than a gt2871R as it has a 60mm turbine wheel rather that the 53.8mm turbine wheel found in the 2871R. Also the GT3071R runs a 56 trim compressor which will also be slightly laggier than the 52 trim which is the most common trim used on the GT2871R although the 56 trim is available with the GT2871R's.