D_Stirls

Those manifolds were sold with in the HKS GT3037 kits which is the HKS version of a the GT3076 so he shouldn't have any trouble. you can see on the front 3 runners they curve up before the collector which allows for large compressor housing to clear. EDIT!! LOL that's not what you were saying though, the kits were bolt on items though so there shouldn't have to be any mount modification needed, from what i understand they actually move the turbo forward slightly from the factory position.

you are wrong Air/Fuel ratio; You always refer to the air mixed with 1 part fuel in the ratio and if you have 14 parts air (i.e. 14:1) then you will have more air than if you have 12:1. Lean means that you have less fuel and rich mean that you have more fuel. It depends on the engine but generally 12:1 is what is looked for under load 12.5 is starting to get dangerous. Under light load (closed loop)the ECU aims for 14.7:1 as this is the correct amount of air to balance the Fuel oxidation reaction (If you have done chemistry you will know what this means). As the AF Ratio gets leaner the cylinder temps begin to rise, if they get too lean then that is where you start getting detonation problems or you start melting pistons or damaging turbine parts. What the extra fuel does is lower the combustion temps by producing a cooler burn and the extra fuel also removes some of the heat from the cylinder.

They are quite big and asfor what PSI as it's second hand you won't know as it will depend on what spring the previous owner had fitted.

how much did that set you back?

me or my brother, it was probably my brother actually.

And you really did miss out, i ended up jumping in with Kristian in his EVO VIII (Thanks for the lift). So you could have gone on the cruise and got to ride in an EVO. Could you hear the cars from Rundle St?

What base pressure are you running? I ask because BA Ford 6 (incl' XR6T) injectors are only 295cc and for you to be making 330rwkw on 6x296cc injectors would make for an interesting duty cycle figure. Also BA 6 cyl'r injectors are 14mm injectors so make sure that you order the correct SARDs as most of them are 11mm. I would look as running the same style as the BA 6cyl'r injectors but just larger and from someone like Bosch, from what i have been reading about the new style injectors there are some very good ones out there especially in high impedance. Have a look here at the 610cc Siemens Deka ones; http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.p...=74&scid=11

have a read; http://www.nistune.com

Adrian bring the turbo to me and i'll pull the turbine housing off for you.

i have just sent them an email asking about oil squirter clearance for CA pistons. On the RHS of the closest piston skirt is that the oil squirter clearance?

Measuring the compressor inducer will give a clue; 57mm inducer = 76mm 56 trim 53.1mm inducer = 71mm 56 trim

I'd be interested to know what rear wheel he used then, the proper GT3076 is rated to 500BHP. By the sounds of what he rated it to it sounds more like a 71mm compressor. 76mm compressor map; http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...amp;3comp_e.jpg

Is that a stock 25 turbo high flowed with a 76 compressor? EDIT!! Actually is has to be both front and rear wheels as they wouldn't keep the ceramic rear wheel. You should be making a lot more power than that, i would have thought that you'd be making nearer 270kw on 16 psi.

Correct, doesn't even need to be registered.

If the ECU isn't chipped then it will be running the factory maps as it is untunable if it hasn't had a cradle soldered in or has a Nistune chip. If it is running factory maps with factory injectors and running the correct fuel pressure then the mixtures should/have to be correct. If the fuel filter is blocked then it might be letting enough fuel through on idle but as the fuel demand gets higher it won't allow enough flow and the pressure will drop and the AFR's will go through the roof. Also if i was you i would have paid $165 and bought a new genuine Walbro pump, a R33 pump is at least 12 years old now and could well be as stuffed as the pump that you took out.

Adrian i think you will find that a 3082R is going to be fairly laggy, you would have been better off going for a 3076 as they make around the same power but the 76 will be more responsive. A GT3071 is prefect for 250 to 280rwkw. A 3082 has the same compressor size as a GT3582 (unsure of trims though) but with a small GT30 turbine. Garrett don't even have a listing for the 3082 anymore. P.S. a Gt3082 is the Garrett name for a HKS GT3040

Unless they chipped the ECU, (which they wouldn't have done if you just went in there it diagnose a fault) they haven't tuned anything. People get confused when they hear "Dyno Tune" because there is no tuning being done all they can do is adjust timing via the CAS. They should call it a "Dyno Check" because in affect that is all they are doing. Like i said before if the fuel pressure is correct through the rev range then it has to be tune related or injectors. What effects the amount of fuel is the fuel pressure, injector size and injector timing (fuel maps). Give my tuner a call; Jeff 0434637357. He's just a tuner though not a workshop so if it's tune related he'll fix it.

you could have driven through regency with this and they wouldn't have known. Same compressor and turbine housings as a T28

you do have the FPR hooked up to a boost signal? The fuel pressure is checked at idle generally and if the boost signal isn't hooked up you will be losing the extra pressure that you get with boost. If the Fuel pressure is fine throughout the rev range (i.e. base pressure + 1:1 psi with boost pressure) then it has to be either the wrong sized injectors are fitted or the Fuel mapping is out; timing has a slight effect on AFR's but it is only slight not the 4 point difference that you are looking at as nissan factory AFR's can be as low as 10:1 especially when slightly boosted. What ECU did you use? the one that was in your car originally or one that came with the engine. And when you put the engine in did you change the fuel filter?

you can only blue tooth transfer with other apple products

you'd prefer to pay for data transfer??

hey all you i phone lovers do you want to blue tooth me something??? Oh thats right you can't

you'll need a press as they are pressed into the hubs, And if they are anything like the S-Series they are like $90 each for the bearings. He can just split the front and rear lines and then put a biasing valve on the rear line. regency will be happier with a factory non abs setup though. although he'll have bigger problems if regency ever look at the car.

Shit; in 4+ years of owing my 180 i have only done around 6000 km's.

No sorry mate i forgot to reply to your SMS the other night. I'm not sure what i ahve got but i'm 99% sure that there aren't any 215's in there. I do have a full set of 205/50/17 but i'm not sure that i want to let them go as they are hard to find and have the "same" sidewall as 235/45/17.