D_Stirls

Since you'd only be making around 250 that will last. here's something else; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-Skyline-rb25det...%3D10%26ps%3D63

That's what they put it in for the experiment but that's running a RB25/30 now (Their Orange Drift Car). Last time i was down there getting Jeff to tune my car it was just sitting on a stand in the corner. Michael said that if someone wanted it they could have it (For the right price)

Hey craig Ring TT and ask them of they still have this engine sitting down there. AFAIK it has just been sitting in the corner since it was taken out. so it would have done <1000km's since having a standard rebuild. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...turbo+tune+RB20

i think you'll find it's calsonic blue

I can't see the point in fitting GTR pumps these days. the youngest of them are 7 years old and the oldest is 20 years old. And when you can get a 040 for $180 it doesn't make sense to me.

Correct; Matt made some billet parts for it as well http://www.doylecrash.com.au/jesus_project2.html http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...282351&st=0

I used to think that the preload on the 33's and 34's was a mechanical preload but there was a Zoom/Boost article a few months ago on 4WD transmissions that suggested that the preload was infact a hydraulic preload. Is this the case or have the magazines once again got it wrong? If it is a hydraulic preload than if the car hasn;t been started for a while and the line pressure is 0, then if you pull the fuse before the ATESSA pump has a chance to fire up then you shouldn't need to drop the shafts. Is this theory correct? I know that it is risky and you really need a pressure gauge in the line to tell what the pressure is but it could work. Also if it is a hydraulic preload then you should be able fit a solenoid to the line to relieve the pressure when you pull the fuse (or flick the switch if you wire it up that way) could this work?

you would have probably gone up a couple brackets. Just look at your payslip that'll explain the break down?

Personally i'd prefer this one; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKI-RACE-BOAT-TWIN-...=item27ad16794f

How about just one of them with a Big F-Off turbo?

Hey Craig you should sell the lot and buy this; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Hell Yes, I'll be getting my drink on very shortly. Unfortunately i have an exam tomorrow so i have to peak early and sober up by the end so i can do some more study when i get home but should still be good.

if it has a self leveling system as well as washers then yes, but i don't think it will have otherwise they wouldn't have been removed during compliance. did you even read that thread?

Craig do it yourself; Have a read of this. RB20_into_S13.doc With this all you need is an R31 manual and your away.

GROUP BUY CLOSED There will be five made for the people listed above. A PM will be sent out to those people shortly.

just by that c34 engine off ebay. you can't go wrong for $1150

18psi??? you sure you still got a turbine wheel in the housing? pull the cat off and see if you have any presents in there.

you couldn't have tapped the holes in to the RWD block anyway because the 4wd blocks have a wider sump flange to fit the wider 4wd sump so you would have had to buy a 4wd adaptor. The 4wd blocks do have both sets of holes though, both 2wd and 4wd.

just buy a stag motor, a lot easier in the long run. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-RB25DET-Turb...=item2303cebd0c

its a emissions item so they aren't going to like engineering it. Also i don't think that is the emissions testing equipment in SA that is suitable to fully test a new tune. The emission test they make us do is basically testing that you have all the factory gear working correctly they then just rely on the factory tune meeting the standards that it is supposed to. when i get my 25 conversion engineered i'll be going interstate anyway (even though i don't need a full emissions test) because it'll cost 20% of what it'd cost to get it done here.

From what i know about the Nismo AFM's the Z32's will still out flow them. Like you said the nismos are more expensive and really the only advantage is that they are 60mm (which is why the Z32 out flow them). A mate of mine just fitted some Z32's to his 33 GTR and with a bit of heat you can stretch the factory intake pipes over the bigger Z32's anyway.

you will need to have the ECU tuned for them, you can't just plug them in a drive as they have a VQ map to the factory AFM's

Your problem is going to be the FPR. An aftermarket rail isn't going to fit the factory FPR, but if you have an aftermarket FPR then they will crack the shits because you can adjust your AFR's by playing with the fuel pressure.

he's only looking to make 250 not match those numbers, that's the difference. It more has to do with the life of the engine and how he treats it and of course the tune which is probably the most important part of all.

unless it's a clearance engine you'd be having issues if the valve was full open at TDC. It'll crack at TDC and be closed at 60ABDC. i.e. 0 + 180 + 60=240