D_Stirls

nope, that engine never died. It was pulled out after that night as they had a built 25/30 to go in the car. It did over 100 runs above 300kw as well. Last time i was at TT getting my 180 tuned it was sitting in the corner still intact. LOL and it was a lot more than 30 psi, that's just where the 2 BAR map sensor on the dyno stopped reading. Here's a thread about it; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...-M-t214053.html

I don't think you will have any problem with 250kw out of the 20 (depending on the previous life and they way you treat it) This is a graph from an internally standard RB20;

He moved to QLD so that is why you wouldn't have seen it around SA for a while. It was up for sale ~12 months ago as well, so if you have a spare $35K it can be yours. And lets face it most of us would move to QLD is we had the chance, i'd move there just for the mod plate laws.

That's what they all say at the start, then 3 years down the track the car has no interior, plexiglass and a full ANDRA spec cage.

The 4WD blocks have both the hole for the 4wd and 2wd sumps, but the 2wd blocks only have the holes for the 2wd sumps. Well that is the case with the 25s at least. i have a C34 engine sitting in the shed as the moment. EDIT!! Just read your first post again, this isn't what you were asking.

NS used to be solid as a rock then about 12-18 months ago when it was down for 5 days straight it hasn't been the same. Loz' is working for PWR now so i don't think he has the time to dedicate to the site that he used to. and the new version has sucked ever since it was launched, they haven;t fixed any of the probels that have been listed on the Beta page. i know nothing about building webpages but surely it wouldn't take 12 weeks to fix the niggly little problems.

it's always worth a try just in case i'd lost it

Just a quick heads up to anyone else that was thinking about PM me about buying my 180 for $3K. I was only kidding, hence the italics. EDIT!! Is it just me or has NS just disappeared?

That's what i was going to sell mine for Oh well since he has one already organised i guess I'll keep mine for a little bit longer. EDIT!! When did i get 1000 posts.

The cheapest route is to get some skyline rear hubs and drive shafts (with the same bolt pattern as your diff ideally) should cost around the $250 mark; and then get some conversion hubs for the front online, these are how i'm getting my conversion hubs from (go the Aussie dollar). http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT Only the rear hubs are any good for a 5 stud conversion. S-Series run a McPherson strut front suspension and the skylines runs a double wishbone front end so they aren't interchangeable. Just buy my CA 180, it's making 217rwkw ATM and in the next 3 weeks it'll be making at least 235rwkw once i fit the cams i picked up a while ago.

4 days left, and by the way this GB is going it'll probably be the last. I have spoken to Matt and whoever has stated that they want one he will do one for even though i didn't get the numbers needed.

Yep it's the wear indicator, time for some new pads, and by the look of those rotors; time to get your rotors machined.

his service must have been memorable. What you after Shane?

Growly Custom Machining. Do you want pic's? EDIT!! Actually you don't need any as Matt has done work for you in the past.....

T67 10cm, A greddy one will be mega expensive but these guys are making copy versions and they are of a good quality, there are a few threads on the US EVO forums about them and people are having a lot of success, considering they are under 1/2 the price of the original you can go wrong. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Mitsub...=item414a273128 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/T67-25G-turbocharge...=item1c06c54852

cos' Dave has aids and he THINKS he's ridden her, He's delusional

any figure next the the figure on the left would look good, It's all relative.

yeah i have heard that (I'm pretty sure these do too), i think they are claiming they are made in Japan to try and better their reputation, but their products seem to be speaking for themselves. When are you seeing full boost (22psi) with a 25G 10cm though, you'd be looking at 4200rpm+ wouldn't you? This is why i want to start that thread, hopefully Buster and the others can post up their graphs and the spec's of the turbos so they can all be in one place.

This is one of Sam's graphs from that 4 door 32 he did the 25 conversion on. What i was hoping the 10cm would achieve is reducing the choking of the rear in the top end and the drop in boost that it induces with the 8cm. What is the name of the factory? Kinugawa Turbo Japan? This is what i was look at for my 25 conversion (into a 180sx), This turbo; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT With this turbine housing; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Yeah i'll take it, i'm planning on buying a stag' next year so i'll either use it on that, or clean it up, put a kit through it and see if i can make some money selling it on NS, here or on Ebay

Hey Craig, Trent replied in that 17C thread you started in the Forced induction section, Seems it's a bit laggier than first thought with full boost (21psi) @ 4800RPM. That makes it as laggy as a TD06SL2-20G which would put you over the 300kw mark. I guess the old tech' compressor wheel isn't as efficient as the new stuff.

Few quick questions about the the TD series then. (i'm going to start a tread dedicated to Mitsubishi, Greddy, Trust turbo results because i've been looking for results for ages and have found very few and if i do find any they are missing bits like what size rear housing they are using). A T67 is basically a TD06SL2-25G isn't it, in that the turbine side is the same it just they have a the bigger 78mm compressor instead of the 20G's 68mm compressor. Therefore the turbine housings should be interchangeable, so if there is a 10cm T67 turbine housing it should fit the 20G. Have you had anyone running a Kando Dynamic turbo yet, there are a few threads on EVO forums and they seem to be a good bit of gear and they have both 8 and 10 housings for the L2. They are copy turbos but seem to be good quality.

If anyone what's to know why the track at TB is no good, watch channel One HD now. We will never see these cars if that track is all we have.

just keep turning it full left then full right and eventually it'll bleed out into the reservoir. Brake however you will need someone for that.