D_Stirls

SOLD

Hey Simon Do you have an oil cooler and what are your oil temps like?

Cut and Paste from my NS.com Sale. Hello All, Up for Sale is my Haltech E8 ECU. I bought it 12 mths ago s/hand and have never used it as i've been building and engine, and i've now decided that i'm going to stick with NIStune. It came with a S14 (series 1) patch loom when i bought it and i have since bought a CA18 patch loom as well. It will be sold with either the S14 loom or the CA18 loom, i'll also throw in the USB to serial cable i bought for it as well as a 3BAR external MAP sensor and the MAP sensor Loom. Cost Me $1300 i'll let it go for $1200. Located in SA but willing to Post Aust' wide for $20. The Patch Loom that doesn't go with the ECU will be sold separately, the Patch looms are also compatible with the Haltech PS1000 Series. Spec's List and Manual can be found in the NS thread' http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=513303

I'm 99% sure that the T517z isn't a TD05-17C, the 17C compressor is a 12 full blade compressor where as the compressor in the T517z is a 6 full 6 short blade compressor.

There are two versions of the 16G compressor the big and small wheel. The small wheel version has a 60mm exducer and the big wheel has the 68mm exducer. Just out of interest the T517z runs the big wheel version of the 16G compressor. With the 20G vs' 18G comparison, even though the wheels exducer sizes are the same the 20G will be trying to move a lot more air even at low shaft speeds. The drive for the moving of the extra air has to come from the turbine which will need more gas flow to achieve the same shaft and hence need higher engine rev's to gain the extra flow. This is why larger trim compressor's are less responsive than their smaller siblings. P.S. I'll be interested to see how your kando results compare to Trust T518z results. Is there anything done to the head ie. cams etc?

For Sale, BRAND NEW 52mm R32 Radiator R32 ASI 52mm Aluminium radiator. Bought it for my 180sx but since it is wider i can't use a R32 radiator as it's a bit tight, I need a specific CA S13/180sx one. Cost Me $210 Sell for $180

In SA though you have to take the car to get ID inspected if you bring in a car from interstate, and if there are any obvious defects they will send the car to be inspected which is as good as being defected as it will have to be back to standard before it will be cleared. If you buy the car in SA though you just fill out a transfer form, pay the stampduty and away you go.

As Ben said that was due to their own stupidity. Actually a number of stupid events, doing a tunnel run (which no one ever does) filming it, and then posting it online. If i ever hold a cruise again (if i ever finish putting my engine together) then cameras will be banned. Not that there would be anything done that the authorities would be interested in.

I used Chris Milton Engine Developments but I'd suggest Rhemac's. http://www.rhemac.com.au/

Was there a graph posted, i missed it if it was. I agree that the GT2871R (GT-RS) is not the best matched turbo it's a fair bit better that the next step up in the GT28 range though the GT2876R. I would love to see what a 52T GT3071R with the cropped 56.5mm turbine would go like on a CA or an SR, as it has the same compressor but with a turbine that will allow to compressor to hit it's straps. I would have through it would behave very similar to a TD06SL2-20G. I'm surprised that the 20G is as responsive as the GT-RS as the heavy side of the turbo (the turbine) is a fair bit larger than the GT-RS. Having said that if it was an 8cm^2 turbine it's effective A/R would be smaller as well at around 0.57a/r, which would offset the weight difference slightly. All in all on paper the TD06SL2-20G is a much better matched turbo than a GT-RS/2871.

Challenge revoked Just tightened up the security on my FB page, silly me had it viewable to friend of friends.

They aren't exactly back to back tests though. One is a GTS-4 and one is a GTS-t so they are different cars which would have slightly different setups. The GT-RS is running less boost and according to the dyno sheet is actually a GT-T highflow, so i'm guessing it is using garrett GT2871R 52trim internals in GT-T housings and i would also assume that it would be journal bearing not BB like an actual GT-RS. EDIT!! And there is something else up with that "GT-RS"; Because my CA18 (with a GT2871R 52T) is reaching full boost sooner and is making and extra 15-20kw pretty much all the way through the mid-range and it's a 200cc smaller engine.

Yeah well just don't want to make it easy for the popo/regency. Who's to say that me and my brother have the same surname, quite common for half siblings to have different surnames. With your job i wouldn't challenge you as you have the connections and the know how. As a side not; NO-GRIP the mirage that was fitted with an 'EVO' engine had it's rego revoked via the mail and was requested to be produced to regency for an inspection when it was put on Car Sales. Also Heath (the bloke with the VG30DETT in the S13) had his rego revoked when he posted his build thread online.

I challenge you to find either my car rego, phone number, address or anything else that would indicate who owns my car (i.e. who i am) or where it is located . I have always been very careful about what pictures are posted and anything that indicates who D_Stirls actually is, the only thing that has been posted is that my name is Dale. EDIT!! actually at the moment there are 3 threads with my number in them but i'll deal with them shortly. Also there is no connection between FB account and my D_Stirls persona, and unless i've accepted you you can't see anything on there anyway.

Is it an actual garrett 3076 in garrett housings or is it a high flowed turbo using garrett wheels.

So basically build thread info, Here's mine, not a skyline though; http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=293828 Before After

If it's going to end up costing you 20k at the end of the 4 years you do have the money for a daily and a track car. And the track car won't need insurance and if the track car breaks and funds are tight you can lay it up for a while. Your issue is that insuring an import with any sort of bad driving history or young age will be basically impossible and if you do manage to get coverage you will be paying between 30-50% of the cars value per year for insurance, (don't even think of driving with out any though). Thought about buying an R31, being Australian delivered they will be cheap to insure and parts are cheap as well. You could even have a R31 daily and a track car.

You may think that it's "only $10K" but since insurance (if your under 25) will cost you $2000- $4000 per year your 10K could end up costing you $26K at the end of the 4 years. Put that against something like a Magna/Ford which will cost you $2000 + $400 per year you can save the extra $21K for something decent when your back on your full licence. Oh and a Magna/Ford would be around as quick as a GT as well.

Are the JUN cams drop in? I'm assuming that since you haven't fitted the adjustable gears you haven't degree'd the cams in. Did they come with a timing card?

they normally come with the gauge.

If you submit the disposal notice to Motor reg' it's it then changed on the data base.

Why didn't you register it? Once he has signed the disposal notice there is no chance that the fines would come back onto you. You can also fill out a notice of disposal and hand that to Motor reg if your really worried.

AEM by the looks of it

AFAIK, the R32 n/a RB25 (non-NVCS) head had smaller ports, the R33 RB25's all had the same port size and the DE and DET heads effectively the same. Could be wrong though.

Whip the cams out and then spin the crank to your hearts content, that way while you are putting the engine back together you don't have to worry about any unforeseen piston on valve action.