D_Stirls

try this one; http://www.stri-racing.com/ the site you talking about is access autoworks isn't it?

is this them Pressure; CS6004W Temp; CS6003W

I'll have to speak to Matt and get back to you, can you find the part number and PM it to me

Looking at some cars on carsales and look who's car popped up in the background;

Have you tuned the AFM change because AFAIK the 3 pin pink and 5 pin green label AFM's have slightly different resolution and therefore will need to be tuned.

SPOOL http://www.spoolimports.com/content/ABOUTSPOOLCONRODS.asp EDIT!! Sorry i missed the I beam parts, I'd still email SPOOL though as i know they have offered I beam rods in the past.

Here's a graph of s standard ECU'd R33 SII; just running full 3 inch exhaust and FMIC. Not mine a mates car but as you can see it wasn't done in shootout mode.

Especially since his track car will be finished very shortly (only just missed getting it ready for the TA) and that was his daily driver

Now that's perfect timing. lol Looks like it's towing in a bit at the front :lol:

Nuts car for the day has to be the 450kw RB25/30 Onevia. If he had more than 3 meters of traction for the whole day i'd be surprised. Not quick but you just have to love it.

I first heard this rumour over 2 years ago; it wasn't true then and i would say that it isn't true now

with his car that is what we found, though every car is different and if you have a look at the graph it's a far from ideal boost curve. Also before you go out and start flogging around with your new found power is't probably a good idea it chuck it on the dyno and run it up to see if the AFR's are acceptable in your case. Nissans are generally VERY rich under boost though.

Get a EBC and go see my friendly Tuner, he'll sort you out.

Its a Blitz DSBC Spec S. That power is low then since your car is a manual. you should be pulling a lot better numbers than that graph of my mates, because the only mods done to it were; Full 3 inch exhaust and FMIC, that's it. Doesn't even have a boost controller, Hence the boost curve . So it's running standard factory fuel and ignition maps it's just with the freed up exhaust and intercooler they run up to 12psi. So even on 10.5 psi you should be closer to 200kw than you are.

i can't see how unless they are rated higher. First i would look at whether the factory solenoid is still in line if it is then bypass it and it MAY help a bit. But the others are right a EBC is your best bet as they minimise wastegate creep and do a much better job at controlling boost. If you twist my arm i might even sell you my new one that has only done 500km since i'm looking and changing to a Turbosmart E-Boost 2. P.S> so is your car Auto or Manual?

That's the torque curve not boost; and torque will almost always drop off in the top end as you have past the point of Max' VE (volumetric Efficiency) and rate of change of power has began to decrease i.e.torque. Here's an example; these two print outs are of the same runs; one showing torque and the other showing boost. See how the boost is dead flat but the torque is still dropping.

Where is the dropping off boost shown?

If you still have the factory boost solenoid in line then i expect if you had a your boost graphed then this is what it would look like (This is a mates figure from his 33). How much boost are you running? Is yours an auto or manual because that figure looks a bit low to me (depending on boost). The other thing that would be playing a part in the hole is the VTC timing not being perfect.

Hey damo do you have a graph with the boost curve not the torque curve? EDIT!! Have you bypassed the factory boost solenoid when fitting the bleed valve?

Z9 Filter if it's a 225, 245 or 265 6 cylinder, which is actually the same thread as RB's use but a lot bigger. Our old dirt circuit Open Wheeler was running a Jeff Juring built 265 HEMI making around the 350HP mark.

What paint did you use? Because if it isn't the good stuff you'll be repainting them after the first track day.

Gtr Injectors + Rb25 + Stock Ecu = No Go RB25det injector = 370cc GTR injectors = 444cc therefore even with the resistor in place you will need to tune they are change. EDIT!! If you were going to put the resistor in and use CA18det injectors then that would work depending on the latency, but there is no point as they are the same size as the RB25det injectors (hence why they work)

and then get defected for not having a spare wheel or a Jack. As for the thread topic, if you want more power sell the car and but a GTS-t it'll be cheaper in the long run.

The difference in response between the 3071 and the 2871 would be less then 200rpm but will give you more headroom for future mods. Infact Powertune in NSW and Street Forced Performance in Vic have developed a 3071 kits for SR's that are as responsive as a 2871r if not more responsive. I'll find the thread; EDIT!! Here you go http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=406078

The differences between them are purely compressor related, all of them run the same Ns111 turbine wheel.