D_Stirls

I have one that I bought on eBay that I was going to use on a T2 turbo, but they are a different size. you can have it for the $40 that I bought it for.

I was going to say that when i first read the topic. I do all my own work (i grew up racing cars so that is where i got my knowledge) but i enjoy it as a hobby. If i had to do it every day i would hate it. Here's a few other points touched on by IZZMO; it is far from the best paying profession, so while you get to work on really nice cars that don't belong to you when it comes to building your own car you won't have the money to get yours to the standard of the ones you work on, although doing your own labour pretty much halves the cost of any mods. Which brings me to my next point, after working on cars all day you get home and have a chance to work on your own car but since you are sick of the sight of cars by the end of the day it's the last thing you want to do.

Finally I have a running car again, well apart from my daily driver. Gone back to the factory exhaust manifold for the time being while I try and find a decent aftermarket one. problem in now the exhaust doesn't line up with the dump as the dump I had for the old manifold was moded to fit for that manifold. I actually think the factory one doesn't look to bad; Vs'

hey tim would that be like someone saying that they will buy a fixed back seat and they will grab it next time they come to the city, then after making the seller wait for 4 months trying to low ball them by offering them 3/4 of the price??? If it is i know how you feel.

Yep Luke i need my guards rolled. I'll do it myself if I can borrow the roller? All you have to do is watch and drink the brews I'll supply for the borrowing. Have you got a heat gun to heat the paint? I have one if you need. EDIT!! Hey Jenkies, I see you lurking there. How's things been?

nothing wrong with getting other braided line made up by Pirtek, the only one that they can't do are the brake lines and i'm pretty sure that if you ask them they will refuse to do it anyway. If you get another place to make up brake lines and they don't put the ADR sticker on them then they are illegal and you will fail an inspection. Here's my oil feed line the Pirtek made up;

no there was 20% on how you participated in the group and the other 80% was on the report. Most people wrote about there personal growth and how they over came obstacles on the walk, you also had to keep a journal on the walk but that you handed up but they said that it wasn't assessed it was just to help you write the report. It was a hard report to write because there wasn't much of an out line as to what was required.

this is a B.U.G.E though not a minor elective. B.U.G.E stands for Broadening Under Graduate Elective, it's to be unrelated to you degree as it's broadening your knowledge. I'm doing Civil engineering and did a Bush Walking elective, it ran 3 days a week for 2 weeks with a 4 day hike in the flinders rangers for the last half of the second week. there is only one assessment item which is a 2500 report on what you learnt from the course.

what uni???

It's braided brake lines that they consider a defect unless they are made by a certified workshop that has ADR compliance.

Links Fixed; GT2871R 48T 400hp each http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_743347_1.htm Vs' GT2871R 52T-10 460hp each http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_707160_10.htm

Here's a question i asked in the main Mod forum but there has been no response so i'll ask it here. Just substitute RB26/30 where you see RB26/GTR as i'm really more interested in how responsive they will be on a 26/30.

no the tunes on P-FC's don't need constant power to remain on the ECU. In fact i don;t know any ECU's that lose tunes when you disconnect the battery.

i hate to be agreeing with the other comments.....lol But it was pretty good :lol:

There is a turbo in the Garrett range between the -5 (GT2860R 62 Trim) and the -10 (GT2871R 52 Trim), that being the GT2871R 48 Trim. Garrett has rated it to 400HP (they rate the -10 to 460HP), i was wondering if anyone has ran one of these on a GTR as i can imagine they would be a lot more responsive than the -10 and would yield a lot more power that the -5. To run on of these though you would have to get Garrett to modify a -5 compressor housing to fit if you want to retain the factory piping but they would be will to do it and I wouldn't imaging it would cost much. GT2871R 48T 400hp http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_743347_1.htm Vs' GT2871R 52T-10 460hp each http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_707160_10.htm I'm looking at building a RB26/30DETT at some stage in the not too distant future and i and seriously looking at running these on that as i imagine that the response of the 48Trim's on a 3 litre would be similar to that of a set of -5 on a 2.6 litre.

Here they all are; The reason the don't go in order is because the -X comes from the last number in the CHRA code and doesn't mean anything. The thing is with the -10's from the picture on the Garrett website the factory piping won't bolt up to the compressor outlet as they seem to have the S-Series 3 bolt flange not the GTR's 2 bolt flange. unless they have just showed a general picture of the GT2871R and it actually come with the GTR housing. HP quoted is gross HP @ the flywheel; GT2860R-7 310hp each http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm GT2860R-5 360hp each http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm GT2871R 52T-10 460hp each http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_707160_10.htm Personally i think there is a better turbo than the -10 in terms of response. I have the same turbo as the -10 on my CA and it is reasonably laggy with full boost (17psi) coming at around 4000rpm, and that's with 1.8 litres "driving" the turbo. with two of these on a RB26 I can only imagine how laggy they would be with 1.3 litres "driving" each turbo. The better option that I was talking about is the GT2871R 48 trim (the -10 is a 52T). This turbo is rated at 400hp but would be a lot more responsive than the -10, and are still rated at 800 gross FWHP. You will have to get GTR compressor housing fitted to it but it would be worth it. GT2871R 48T 400hp http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_743347_1.htm

If anyone wants a set of steelies i have a set of 16x7.5 ~+35 5x114.3 that i'll let go for $30 each or or $100 for the whole set (and i'll throw in the plastic hub caps). They'd be perfect for drifting as they would be easy to straighten and who really cares for $30, or for some rep' points on the street.

it's better for you as the seller as once the money is in your account there is nothing they can do to get it back, but because of this they might not be willing to pay that way. As a buyer i prefer to use paypal as there is some recourse if you get the wrong part or the part is substandard (in a dispute on paypal at the moment over a Exhaust manifold that is utterly crap) but as a seller i prefer to use direct deposit, because of what i mentioned above.

Just be careful with paypal because if there is a dispute generally they side with the buyer, and will return the money to them and take it from your account. There are a few dodgy people that have realised this and are routing it. My missus was selling a car and there was a buyer that said that they would only pay with paypal even though they came an looked at the car in person, the only reason that i can see that they wanted to do this is because they would going to start a dispute after the car was delivered and try to get the money back. Then it would be up to us to try and get the car back which would be in their name by then. Also when getting large amount of money ($150>) paypal will take 3-5% when you go to transfer the money out of your account, so make sure you charge the buyer 5% more than the sale price if they want to use paypal.

what is the last number on the part number? If it had some thing like BKPR6ES-8 then it is 0.8 but if it was -11 or didn't have a number at the end then it's 1.1mm If you are having spark problem then opening them up won't help you need to close them up, but if you have split fires then you shouldn't be having spark problems. you will know if they are breaking down because it'll sound like it not running on all cylinders where as you are saying it's feeling like it's being held back which isn't spark. It's probably got more to do with ignition timing.

Ideally want a higher gap not a lower. I higher gap gives a better ignition to the fuel but it also is weaker spark which makes it susceptible to being "blown out" by the intake charge. Anyhow the accepted gap is 0.8mm if you have split fires then you should be able to run a bigger gap but it'll be trial and error to find out how big and I wouldn't go over 1>1.1mm anyway.

I'm with Pete and Luke as well. All LED tail lights no matter what car they are fitted look like Ricey crap, but that's just MO.

What turbo you running on the 25 Adrian?

Spot on Ryan; I think that there are a fair few people in the SA section that never look past it's "boarders".

I would but i still don't have an exhaust manifold for the 180.