D_Stirls

Ok there is not going to be anything on tonight, there's not enough interest and i really have to much study to do for uni. might go for a hillzy before bed but that's it. Ryan SMS me if your up for a hillzy later.

If you already have a relocation kit then all you need is some lines and a cooler (+a thermostat if you want to run one). you use the same line that runs from the block to you relocated filter then you make up two new lines. 1. This goes for what was the return line back to the block to the oil cooler. 2. This goes from the cooler back to the engine block. And Hey Presto you have an oil cooler relocation kit. Just remember when you decide which hose is which that the oil flow through a filter from the outside in; and that it's better to filter the oil pre-cooler while it's hot the after it cooler and more viscus.

I'm not sure where the info is, I just checked the printout and it's not on there. But I also looked at the printouts for my car that were done on the same dyno and there aren't on there so it might be the way TT have there printouts setup. I would say the the temp are correct because every time I have seen Jeff drive a car on the dyno the first thing he does is enter the humidity and temp from the weather station they have setup next to the dyno.

Hello All, Just re-registered my 180 after having it off the road for 6 weeks. Any one up for a casual drive tonight if it doesn't rain. If you are then send me a PM, I'm thinking about 8:30ish and i will figure out where to meet up in the mean time. Dale

I think you'll find that that is AFR related. the factory maps are a bit all over the place as they are only tested at certain points in the rev range not over the whole range. So at the points were they are tested they have good emission's and every where else it's tuned for safe power. Zac has an SAFC II in the car but it hasn't been played with at this stage and has 0 correction factor at every point so when he takes it to Jeff next the AFR's will be more constant and there will be a bit more power (~10kw). P.S. thanks for letting me know about the editing time, I never could figure out why you could edit your post some time but not others. On NS where I do most of my posting you can edit it any time. I guess it pays to be a post whore on more than one forum.

Here's the Graph; Zac if you want to add this to the first post here's the image address; http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q60/D_S...sDynoFigure.jpg

Mainlines do read lower due to their more accurate correction factors but this is widely know, so you can compare DD figures to DD amd mainline to mainline but can't really compare them against eaach other. I fitted the exhaust and cooler to this car, there was also some cat "modifications" so the boost increase is due to the increase in the exhaust flow. The boost reading is off the MAP sensor on the exhaust. I would say that the figure is pretty accutre due to how i only just pulled away in my lighter 180 which was running about 205kw(14.5psi) at the time when we had a run on the freeway on the way to Mallala (kept it under 110 of course). As cubes and Jeff said prehaps it's just a freek.

And a mirage in the top 3 with a +0:01.03 behind the GTR; you wouldn't be seeing that at Tsubka. NO-GRIP FTW!!

Thanks for the SMS Kahli, i hvae to work and my car is off the road ATM so i won't be able to make this one.

Does someone at JMS own a Grey R33 GTR running a big set of cams? I saw it on Sudholz Rd the other night and when it was idling at the lights it sounded TUFF!

when you get emailed the pictures right click and go to properties then find the address of the picture, copy it and post it up in here using the [/img] tags. Or just forward the email to [email protected].

[email protected]

That's what he said but it was a 4 banger that took out the overall dyno comp' so unless he had more than 503kw he wouldn't have. EDIT!! But since they broke it up into 4WD and RWD then he would have won, yes

I think Cara made around 145kw You forgot about the 114kw shot of NOS.

LOL @ the pictures thread having "0" pictures

Welcome Back

It's Mainline Dyno's are more accurate to real HP than the dynodynamics ones. Everyone is in the same boat though and it also makes "SLO 33"s 465kw more impressive, It would be more like 510kw on a DD dyno.

Print this out. It must be in colour and filled out or they won't accept it.

OWN3D this could become a good thread Oh and incase the other thread gets deleted;

The R33's will ahve a different offset as they have 296mm rotor standard, and the R32's had a 280mm rotor. They will work but the design will be slightly different. If the quote comes back being more than $150 give my brother a call Growly Custom Machining as he was going to make up some designs for the same thing and he was looking at them being around $150.

Consider them sold if they aren't already.

The GIZZMO one AFAIK are the Phenolic (Sp?) type that greatly reduce heat transfer to the intake manifold, and i would expect them to be expensive if this is the case.

Where's the PDF guide?

There's a certain saying about a mantle piece and stoking the fire that springs to mind. And there are some very nice fires there.

Try ATS they might be able to help. As for high temp sealant make sure it is a "Sensor Safe" product otherwise it will kill your O2 sensor.