D_Stirls

Well actually YES Ring Jeff, He can Reflash R32 and Z32 ECUs and remap them for use in R33's. It's cheaper than remapping the R33 one as you don't have to buy the daughter board.

You Sir are a Champion

I think they would have submitted the cruise details with the authorities like official cruises are supposed to be, so the cops would have know the route.

Can some one please make the "S" in my name a capital so D_Stirls instead of D_stirls. Thanks

do you just have the actuator or do you have the mounting bracket and the arm? You said that you are going to use the standard arm but i don;t think that'll work because you need an arm with an internal thread and the factory actuator and arm are 1 piece. Post up a pic' of the kit. Here's my actuator setup, it a Garrett item but it's the same as the HKS ones;

So the inspection you are going through is the ID inspection? If that's the case i wouldn't worry about swapping the reo over because all they are going to check is whether the engine number and chassis numbers match whats on the paper work. The address for the ID inspection isn't even on the same street as the place you go when you are defected. If you are really worried take it to Sturt police station and get them to do the ID inspection (although they are only open 1 day a week for inspections).

So you are getting quotes to make up the whole piping or just modify some existing piping? I thought from your original post that you were just getting something modified? EDIT!! I must have read it wrong, i don't know how i read that you were modifying piping. Go to AAA Exhaust. I made up a template from poly pipe and PVC fittings took it to them and they bent it up out of stainless. It cost $140 for them to do it including them suppling the piping. Mine was 2 inch and being a 180 is shorter than what you will be making but it will still come in under $250. Then all i had to get was two TIG welds and the piping was done. Like i said earlier they bent up my intake as well. The welds were done because you have to have 200mm between bends and there were a couple places that they had to be closer. Pic's;

Have a look at this site and it'll answer your questions about filters. http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm

Just go to AAA and use their reducer and you won't have to weld anything and it'll cost about $10.

Don't worry about joining a club just pay for a Day License. Also keep the receipt and what you pay for your day license will come off your full license. I'm going to give this hill climb a miss as I'm going to do the track day at Mallala on the Saturday after and i can't afford to do both.

It's plug and play. So yes just unplug your standard ECU and plug the P/FC in. The only wire you would have to run is the lead to the hand controller but that can go anywhere. you can even put it in the glove box if you don't need the see the readings.

With the price of second hand Power FC's these day's i don't know why people would use Emanage any more. It's still a signal fudger and has nothing on a full stand alone replacement ECU which these days is only about $3-400 more expensive. It does retain the cold start (as most after market ECU's do now) and as for Knock Control if the tunes are good then there shouldn't be a need for it. At least with Power FC you can look at the hand controller and see what level of Knock you are getting.

Injectors won't fit RB25= Side Feed RB30= Top Feed

+1

Just change the clips, you can get them from High Octane Racing. It's just SARD side feeds they all have the different clips

check your post on NS i said the same thing So; +1 TPS

There will never be any major work done on AIR because the EPA has and order that says that if any major work is to be done then the mounds have to be pulled down and the asbestos and tyres are to be removed. the tyres aren't that expansive to remove but you an garantee that the Asbestos will cost millions to be removed.

Yep sorry i have the numbers around the wrong way; But here's the chart;

For $600 get him to rego it there, that removes most of the risk and all you ahve to do over here is a quick ID inspection and everything is sweet. If it was $2k that he was dropping then that is a different story.

The 60 is when the oil is cold and you want your oil to be think on cold start to protect the engine from wear. is more the smaller number that is inportant because that is the thickness when hot which is what your engine spends most of it's time being. If you look at what nissan suggests for our climate and they recomend 10W-30/40/50. For 5W-?? the climate they suggest for this is around 10 degree max. If i was on my computer i could post the chart up from the manual, i can do it later if people are interested.

You also have to ask the question why he is dropping the price when he's not registering it??? It makes me very suspicious and i suspect that not everything has been done for compliance. EDIT!! Since he's willing to drop the price put your salesman hat on and get him the rego it at the lower price and you pay for the 3/6 months rego. If everything has been done like he said it has then it should just be a fact of dropping off some forms and picking up the sticker, provided the inspection has been done which i don;t think it has by the sounds of it.

Ryan was trying to wind him up and he succeeded... no harm no foul. The 200% bit was said in jest and so (I would Assume) was the moron bit. Back onto the Auto Bahn Bagging The Gilles Plains store isn't much better that the Mile End on. The owner is a complete twat and doesn't know shit; although he well and truly thinks he does.

The JDM S15 100% had a GT2560R turbo that the layman calls a T28BB and GT28R. It's the domestic market that had the plain bearing T28. Here's a quote directly from the Garrett website; http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_466541_1.htm As for the the GT2871R they have the same housings as the turbo mentioned above and only the wheels are different so i can't see that they won't bolt up because externally they are identical. I personally have just changed my turbo from a GT28R (GT2560R) to a GT2871R 52T and they are 100% identical from the outside.

The JDM S15 100% had a GT2560R turbo that the layman calls a T28BB and GT28R. It's the domestic market that had the plain bearing T28. Here's a quote directly from the Garrett website; As for the the GT2871R they have the same housings as the turbo mentioned above and only the wheels are different so i can't see that they won't bolt up because externally they are identical. I personally have just changed my turbo from a GT28R (GT2560R) to a GT2871R 52T and they are 100% identical from the outside.

So when you say that you removed the WG completely did you remove the 30cm or so of pipe down to were the WG was or did you just cut the WG flange off at the end of the pipe? You do realise that the pipe itself will have a flow resistance and will create it's own back pressure that will increase with length. So if you kept the 30cm of piping that ran down to your WG then that is your problem because that will be causing the back pressure that will be causing your spiking. This is why cris is saying the the WG has to be as close the the collector/manifold as possible to reduce the flow restriction caused by the length of pipe that ran to the WG.