D_Stirls

anyone got a link to the pictures? Video would be good as well.

He was running low on fuel, it surged and cut out on him. He had to restart it mid run.

i'll be there crewing for Barty

I have never had an issue with mine, infact i have never had an issue with any trident stuff. If they work for 100,000+ km's in street cars then for the little bit of use/abuse that we use our cars for they do the job fine. At the end of the day the thermostat is one of those parts that does the same job in a 100hp car as it does in a 1000hp car. And at the moment you are fault finding so if you pay $30 for a trident item and it fixes the problem then you can go and pay $130 for a billion one down the track if it makes you feel better/safer. But if it doesn't then you ahve only spent $30. There is an issue there though as cracking temp for a CA's 82 degrees and is full open at 90 degrees and i'm pretty sure that RB's run a lower temp than CA's

just get a trident one from motor traders or sprints. They have a catalogue and you find the one that suits your car and then they will have listings for different temp ranges in the same size.

Bugger paying $200 each, the best of the 3 types (the LS2 Truck Coil-with the heat sink on the top) is only $24.75 each with $60 postage for all 6. So ~$209 all together. And these put out 120mA as opposed to 40mA for the base LS2 type. What do the factory coils put out? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNITION-COIL-CADILLAC-GM-HUMMER-ISUZU-VEHICLES-UF262-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2d7a3fedQQitemZ400194945005QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Do you still have the factory oil cooler? what are your oil temps doing? I have the same issue with my CA, couldn't keep it cool even with a 150% thicker radiator (25mm R32 Vs' 10mm Standard CA). Once i fitted a oil cooler never had an issue again. Mt theory is that the only way that the engine could get the heat out of the oil is through the coolant.

Have a read, then watch the video; http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6218245369765754251&hl=en#

There is a key way cut into the steering shaft itself, this is what becomes damaged, but if yours it still functioning (be it with slack) then you are lucky but it just makes it easier for the next thief.

From the few cars that i have dealt with that have had their steering lock broken i can tell you that the steering shaft will almost certainly be damaged as well. so you will be up for a compete mew steering shaft assembly

It will fit but keep and eye on the temps though as the RB radiators are 25mm thick but the CA radiators are only 10mm thick. EDIT!! the CA rad will also be a few mm shorter but will still fit.

no the cams have a large affect on the compression. When i played with the cam timing on my CA the compression went from 165 before the timing adjustments to 140 after so that is 25psi drop with just the timing being adjusted on stock cams. You have also got longer duration cams so your valves are open for longer and you will lose compression because of that, how much depend on the timing. At the end of the day if you are getting good leak down results and no blow-by then the cylinders are sealing.

If the rings haven't bedded in correctly then it isn't the builder fault. there seems to be something wrong with the compression tester since the first test was all even and now they are all over the show. Also that much variation should have shown up in the leak down test and it would have been far from perfect. As i said before you can't compare the results for a standard rb25 to one with bigger cams the one with bigger cams is guaranteed to have lower compression.

they seem a bit low but as long as they are even then that is the main thing. If you are really worried do a leak down test and that'll tell you the full story. You can't really use the factory compression figures when you played with the head especially when you have changed the cams. The opening and closing times of the cams are different and therefore you will lose more compression before the valves close, this is part of the reason why bigger cams are more efficient at higher revs.

Yep from the limited results that i have seen i tend to agree with you. it seems to look like this in terms of power AND response. GT3071R GTX3071R=GT3076R GTX3076R=GT3582R GTX3582 Garrett have made some bigger flowing turbos but seem to have just matched the performance to their old turbos that were one size bigger. What i think was behind the introduction of the X series was that Garrett were concerned about the fact that some of the smaller companies were catching up on them and taking some of their market share. To counter this they updated their old series of turbos (and at the end of the day the X series is an update at best because the only thing that has changed is the compressor wheel and compressor housings on some). The reason that they used billet wheels is because they didn't have to go out and spend $200,000+ on tooling up for a new set of cast wheels, and it also meant that they hit the market earlier as it takes time to tool up. I don't see that they planned these turbos to be a long term answer to the other manufactures but would buy them some time while they developed a complete new series. Also buy using billet wheels they can be a lot more dynamic with their designs as they can change them at anytime with out being up for huge tooling costs. I was thinking about using a X3071R but after seeing the results i won't, due to the fact i'm running a 1.8 litre. Instead i'll stick with the old 3071R and a TS housing because the new version doesn't match it's response. I'm also interested in the EFR series as their results seem to be a lot more promising.

PV=NkT That is all

Not my car, it's just a data log that was in a Haltech thread that i remember was discussing the same issue. This bloke fixed the problem buy going for a Crank Trigger setup and now this CA is running a bit over 700hp (Swedish Car). I've bough a Haltech E8 that i'll be using on my car when i fit a GT3071R (or BW EFR) so we'll see if i have the same issue. Just to confirm, (my understanding, is this correct?) This issue is caused by the processor speed of certain after market ECU's? So that is why the slower processing factory and P-FC ECU's don't have an issue as they don't process the signal quick enough to pick up the tiny fluctuations that the timing belt cause to the timing signal? Basically 360 signals per 2 crank revolutions is too accurate if the processor is quick enough to pick up on the tiny fluctuations?

as others have said 93 and 94 R32 GTR's have the same crank and clutch as the R33 GTR's.

I'm pretty sure that P-FC's don't have any knock control either, well if you don't count flashing a light as knock control.

no i'm talking motorsport classes where they make forced inducted cars run a restrictor, say 38mm not talking about regular street cars. From what Garrett write on their info page for this turbo they make it pretty clear that it isn't intended for general performance use.

A GT2876 isn't a cropped GT30 wheel it uses the NS111 GT28 wheel with an old school 76mm compressor. They are a bollocks turbo as they are a complete missmatch between the turbine and compressor sides. They aren't a new turbo they have been around for years but they aren't widely used as they are an under performing turbo. They are in effect the same CHRA as a HKS GT2540. There are applications where they do work well, for instance if you are running in a class where you have to run a restrictor before your turbo then this takes a bit of the load of the compressor due the less air hitting the wheel and therefore the small turbine has a chance of driving the compressor that is ~23mm bigger than it is.

i have heard of CA's having the same problem, there is a data log file in the Haltech formus that shows the CAS signal from a CA that was inflicted with this issue. EDIT!! Here is it.

http://www.turbo-kits.com quote me $1429 + postage for a GTX3071R with a 0.78A/R split pulse turbine housing. Send them an email to get a quote.

LOL If not rushing it is the key then our open wheeler should cost us nothing as we have been building it for 5 years now, LOL http://www.ttuned.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=271273

Half cage can be rego'd but the car has to be registered as a 2 seater and you have to have 150mm of head clearance between the bars and your head at the seats full back position. So you have to take the rear seats and seat belts out and you are supposed to make the car not returnable to a 4/5 seater. i.e. you are supposed to weld the belt mounting points but if you fill them with silicon or body filler and paint over them they won't question it. If you have a 4 door you also have to weld the rear doors shut for it to be passed as a 2 seater, but i don't think that applies to you.