khunjeng

there is more hardcore evidence that 10k + OCIs with good oil and a good filter is better than 5k...if ur concerned do a UOA on your oil and see how its going and dont guess....

drop links...

IMO do the exhaust first. Dispite all the hoo-haa about pod filters etc there are some basic facts to condend with... flow is inversly proportional to filtration. The K&N style cotton gauze have good flow and low pressure drop when compared to paper...but not as good filtration. Many ppl have K&N styled pods and have no troubles..and many say stick to stock... The stock paper filters better but restricts flow...and vice versa for th K&N UOA analysis from various tests have had varied results...most have showed little difference in the test rating of their oil after using K&N. I use Unifilter...its oiled foam. Some say it will screw the AFM...which is true cos if over oiled it can coat the resistor...but I have had no problems. UOA performed on a number of cars using the Unifilter pods have been exceptional and hence I'm confident it filters really well. Remember its all a trade off. Also if your not goingt o box its up...its a waste of time IMO. I'm pretty sure the K&N & Apexi filters are very similar and both cotton gauze hence they will perform similar. I was told u can buy a K&N panel replacement for the stock one...maybe thats a good idea do a search.

tempted?

dunno my tuner go mine....check the SAU classifieds...some1 is bound to be selling one.

and ur cold start cSt rating will be like much less thanthat of the 10W40.... one question for Busky and trex...I use a 10W30 in my fto and is the goods....I had been using a 10W40 Redline in my Rb25...what u think about lowring it to 10/5W30 as we move into summer...prop. the same as post above.

yeah Busky2k is correct. 2k is actually worse than 10k...it wont start working for a while and not filter stuff properly as its being bypassed. there is a lot of technical threads about how the filter works and why longer is better than shorter. As for the whole 5k OCI...if u use a 300V or Redline ester based oil...again ur not letting the adatives do their thing...and hence just wasting valuable money. if ur gonna do it 5k under normal driving conditions just use a cheep oil. Myth Busters needs a call on these..useing 10k OCIs on my car with redline, you should see how clean it is...no crud at all. read this great info from BITG. http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart4.htm

temp sensor as said. Juts take it off. I replaced my cat last week and just tucked it up under the car. as for the bolts..u'd be suprised how many people don't use exactly the right size and hence when they use some force...round the head or nut. I had issues geeting my stock dump pipe off...with the right size and a good length you can get some force onto it. I used a rachet for some though which has an extendable arm for greater torque. but good quality spanners and ring spanners work a treat of u have space.

as he said. I went for a Z32 cos I was only going for 300 max. If I go any further I have more issues than worrying about the AFM Z32 cost me around 400 and easy replacement to give you more point to tune...mine idles nice also. and I don't know about the q45 but the Z32 was a direct replacement.

for the LSD I'm not sure... but for more my std rb25 box I just used Redline MT90...but the Motul would be my next choice. The Castrol SynTrans is also the goods.

just downlaod the manual and check yourself... as for the gb fliud...I did mine today and it took just under 4l.. I think it takes 4.1. The redline bottle gives you 4GL or 3.78l. you need to go down and buy the small 1GL bottle for $34 and will have mots of that bottle left over for next time. I suspect the differneces in the fill amount might be cos ppl didn't get all of it out on the drain. As with the engine oil I got out just under the fillt qty and put that back in...perfect.

ok after a few crunches I decided it was time for a gb oil change. Not sure which one to use but after read a few posts it came down to the Castol SynTrans and Redline MT90 - Mt90 as numerous people have had issues in the longer term with the shockproof. Cos I was just going down to Bursons who stock both i found that the Syntrans was $29 per 1lt bottle and the redline was $34 per gallon (0.946l) or $123 for the 4Gl (3.78l) bottle. I wanted 5L cos I wanted some left over for top up later and anyone who has used reldine know you will have some left over...cos of the bottle sizes. As I use the Redline motor oils in both my R33 (10W40) and my FTO (10W30) I went with the MT90 which cost $149 all up from Bursons with no special discounts etc for 5GL. I ended up putting in around 4.0 ltres after a good drain. Ran it up and its seemed ok - time will tell. As for the drain plugs etc...bit hard..the fill plug needed my extendable 1/2" drive rachet which I use for my wheel nuts...came off a treat when extended like 1m. Filled using a pump i bought ages ago for this task...cos $12 I think. All up for $150...high grade oil in the box now I can slam though the gears and get the most out of my 300kw. THanks for all the info. never pay some1 do do this job for you! mind u I have a pit in my garage...makes every quite easy.

as most will say...if u use 300V or Redline and drive it normally then 10k+ is ok.

yeah...you come from Vic parade u usually have to wait at the turn to get onto hoddle. you get a great 4 lane road to give it some and overtake the Saab in front of you..

start of the western ring road from Greensborough...I come from the diamon creek way. I love to get in the outside lane and cain it past everyone... I think it its 80kmph also my other dialy fav. The hoddle street ramp to the eastern fwy... The camber is all f*ked up but my FTO handles it very sweet. I cain it around there and hit 8k. before th bridge In the r33 its more fun. I stay on the outside lane and merge right...I try to see what is the fastest speed I can do at the bridge if there are not cars...the bridge comes up fast...you I don't end up going that fast...l

sounds awsome...been ages since i have been there....I'm def. down with this one.

basically thats a good idea... when flat...or new the charge will be at its max...I thought it was a bit higher than 14 on full charge..cos mine went flat a few weeksn back and I remeber it being higher for an initla peroid. after running the battery in...check the voltage when its off. Make sure it looks cool. When check it in the morning. If the voltage has dropped over night and its new...you have something draining the battery.. I remember I went to my FTO a few months back and the battery was dead...thought it was wierd it just went. nyway went and got a new one and once installed I realised my wife had left the headlights on overnight...hahah anyway I have a spare now...

happy b'day bec...a bit late...but better late than never !

yeah that area sux mate. I lived around there a few years back and was broken into a few times...so i moved back to the east...never ever had an issue. Bad luck mate

old pic..but you get the idea about the banana bar wheels arrived (yay) and new S2 style grill arrived (yay) thes ewill make it 100 times better.

this time I'm there....esp. at Bells cos I want some cake

good choice...buy the skyline. use the link above for some general advice...I used that and it was realy helpful. depending on your financial situation, I would try and buy one that has got some good mods...it will save you some serious cash from doing it yourself. e.g. zorst, powerFC, FMIC, nice wheels+tyres, suspension and maybe a kit or a clutch upgrade Although I doubt your budget allows, personally I would be on the look for a r33/r32 with any turbo upgrades...typically you will find those cars have a fun nice mods to suit also...Depending on you budget...32/33/34..I assume your looking for an r33 and then I would suggest a S2 as they look best stock..the s1 is a bit old unless the kit has been upgraded. btw join the club...its great and may people here have excellent info to provide about these cars.

hahah yeah Sky-High has been upgraded a long time ago...but essentially its still the same. I went there a year agao and had to pay to get in...that kinda sucked I thought.

yeah they were making profits. Its safe to say dispite what that might show on video that its every developers dream to create a concept and sell it ot the big boys for big bucks...this kinda of money is r"etire for life" type of stuff...or in SAU terms...2 x Ztune R34s one for racing and the other for going down to 7-11.

looks like that turbo has a few issues...