khunjeng

ok I went to change the belts....air con/alt belts are easy to get off but they sit inside of the PS belt which appears to have its bolt to loosen the tesnion is a crappy spot. Made it really hard to get a 12mm ring spanner in there. do I just cut the belt and do it that way...but I thought I would still have trouble when tightening it all up again.... it appears to be on accessable from under the car in a crap spot...unless i'm missing something (which may be the case) some help would be useful. KJ

no. fits in there...its not a big deal.

Not sure, was on the car when i got it and I took it off as I use a Unifilter setup. I havn't cleaned it with the K&N cleaner yet but I can for you only takes a few minutes. My guess is thats its a year old and done about 5,000kms based on the previous owners driving history. I bought these off another SAU member but never actually fitted and I cbf now so thought I would just sell them again. They are 52mm, smoked and change have 7 different colors. See the previous link for more pics and details...as you will see i piad $200 for them not long ago. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=120550

1. HKS Turbo Timer, Type 0. Pretty much brand new, all cables. $110 2. Duel Pillar pod for R33 for 52mm - black fibreglass finish, never used, $40 3. R33 Aliminum Radiator shield, used, needs a polish $50. - sold pending payment 4. K&N Pod filter for R33..used...comes with some K&N cleaning sprey cos I don't want it. $40 5. 3 x Timex Guages - Boost, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure. changable 7 Colors, all senders, fittings etc. Never used and in brand new condition. $150 the lot. - sold pending payment I'm located in Melbourne, will ship...cos items are light should be max $10 extra. PIckup from Broady at my work if you like.

you are talking about the VII content which is added to POA based oils to help get the spread. VIIs are not a lubricant and break down more quickly under stress which is not great. If you use a high quality Ester based oil such as redline or motul 300v they claim not to use VII additives. True or not, they def. use less and they have a range of better properties than most sync. oils on the market. If money was not problem, I would use a Redline product...10W30-40 I use a 40...seems excellent. I use a 30 in my FTO...You will be fine with both of those products.

i've got a few cars now where I have an additional 3" flex pipe running from the front grille. Typically when u install a FMIC the stock return hole is free which is directly under the filter. I have run some pipe from the grille directly into this area...costs are minimal and the effort is low also. seems to work really well. IMO the ipe form the grille has a bigger and less restricted air flow, if u add the stock intake then you should have plently of air avaliable. as for FMIC and lag...if the return path is longer and the fmic is bigger then I assume you will get more lag. Also the size of the turbo contributes to this. Since all my r33 upgrades I get more lag...but personally I don't care as for when I'm just crusing it just runs like a NA 2.5 car around the place...then I rev it a bit harder and I have a 12 second car. Personal preference I guess.

ok ur on...i'm comming and bringing the one I have...and if u get it one I will buy u a beer. look for me and my stupid sticker in my hand. Chris,

so far I have had a few themes come throuh...but none help my sticker efort. I have tried to peal them off slow and the thing just doesn't work damn it!

yeah that sounds like a bad idea if I'm doing it...I tried it for the SAU bit only and it looked crapola...so I gave up.

was there a bad batch?? Guess so...dunno how to fit this and make them look nice if I do each one by itself...

ok went to put on my fantastic new SAU stickers this morning... but to my suprise when I went to take off the tape the backing didn't come off the tape on the front did...form my experience the backing usually comes off and you stick them on the window and then slowly peal off the front tape...LOL I was upset and didn't bother with the other one. Am I doing this right? my car is naked now cos I took off the old stickers !!

how much are these in general? I assume you can get thim with the appropiate rails etc

copper, platnium or iridium they all should work. I use the iridiums just cos I feel like it, but I have seen numberous results from others with copper stds which were really just as good. there is nothing wrong with platniums..I'm guessing the gap was wrong in the first place or they were the wrong heat range. as for the other issue, I put $5 down on coil packs if others have already failed and been replaced. Its like only replacing 2 plugs that are faulty. its likely the other are on the way out also just do the lot and don't waste ur time.

is it the pully or the belt? Easy way to check is to take off the belt..2min...and spin the pully by hand..it should spin freely. If thats cool, its your belt...is it old? give a tweak and see how it goes...for the money I usually just replace them cos they are cheap as. On that note does any1 actually know the correct part number for the fan belt and alternator belts either a OEM or other??

i second UAS...and I have bought some stuff off them in the past.

if 2 coild have been replaced I'd be 98% confident its the coil packs. What power/boost u running? There is a a sticky with about 500 members with this problem, most were fixed with new coil packs and/or re-gapped plugs i..e from 1.1 to 0.8 etc I too had this problem and dispite all the DIY about taping them up etc, the coil can break down inside and die..just replace them. If you buy thorugh nengun expect a good 4 week wait. but good prices. mine were crapola running 0.5bar with 175kw...Now I'm running with somew new packs and 275kw, 1bar and no worries with the spitfires (and the same plugs / igniter cos I have a S1)

ok so whats the process? wash the car, clay the car, wax the car ? Q. Buff with what exactly - any polish cloth? micorfibre cloth...small circle motions? one panel at a time or the whole car and then buff it??

Cos I reckon its the best I buy Redline products. I'm tyring the 10W40 in the R33 however I do use their 10W30 in my FTO and it works fine. 300V would be my next choice. However I'm doing 10k OCIs with the redline stuff and the engine is celan as...should take a photo next time. The cold start cST rating is an important spec. You will see the 30s have very low visc ratings at cold start - good for engine protection however at opertaing temp the difference is minimal between the 30-50.

I changed my oil today as it turns out. I let it drain for about 10min, took off the filter and replaced with a new one. I use Redline oil so one big bottle is 3.7lt and then around 2/3 of the a 0.95l bottle i.e. ~600ml. for a toal of ~4.3l Comes out right on the line after a run my car and let it sit for a while. Never overfill!

On my r33 I found the tube/pipe very difficult to get off. I followed the instructions below by taking off the rubber tune off where it connects to the metal tube. I heated up the rubber with a hair dyer and it came off easily... I used a Z201/2 I think..cost $10. Fits easily Easiest fuel filter I've replaced. Cos its so easy I would do this say every 20k cos its cheap and easy.

for me...nothing. My car was in an accident and I got the panel beater to fit this bar instead of a std. one....The finish was good, I put in some mesh also which is hard to see but looks good. I have mesh on the bar's side vents also... Best to go to a car paint joint and get a quote...tell them its a jell coat fibreglassg bar. WIll still need a slight prep but should cost less than a re-sprey on your existing one cos the labour is less.

indicators I used r not nissan ones...but I will supply any1 with the details for anyone who wants them. They are avaliable in asutralia and through a std. supplier.

u mean the Greddy Emanage Ultimate yeah?? not the std version. my tuner has got my emanage rocking...he is a wiz with the safc also.

cos I'm waiting for my PFC I'm running an emanage which is very simiar in terms of features to the SAFC. The problem is as Paul33 exlpained... It got a initial run of 275 but I have backed it off for the reasons explained to about 250 and even then its not perfect...the standalone ecu is the go with these kinds of numbers. so spot on Paulr33

you gotta get a 300zx AFM or the VG30 or wotever which I think is the same thing. Also the Bosch fuel pump is the go...u can do it on std injectors but its not the greatest idea as suggested. also get a new fuel filetr...no point if that is old and full of crap. i pulled mine of another car and replaced it...the difference was amazing in my mums Camry!