khunjeng

Isn't this just the UAS kit??? cost about 350 from NSW?? The UNifilters are awsome, I have one on all my cars...and the box form UAS is the same but comes in Plastic/Metal/CF

yo...when is this closing?? I want mine now

pm sent!

funny enough I saw you one and was about u send u a PM....u should have sone soon!

Doods My front bar, grille and bonnet are getting replaced now...I can get some aftermarket ones and wondered if any1 had any suggestions?? I'm keen on 400R, GTR styles....or any other suggestions If you either have some for sale and know of a good place..let me know asap!!! thanks KJ

Guys I'm getting my repairs done now and will put on a new bonnet / grille and front bar. Has anyone got anything they want to sell thats cool...i.e. GTR, 400R styles. Maybe some side skirts also....I'm in a hurry!!! Vic pickup prefered however not a big deal. KJ

btw I have an R33 S1...I guess this is important!!! heheh KJ

KJ is in also!!! $140 to the door!! nice1...I should have got the dials after all and not got them seperately!! next time I'm sendint Kez a PM of confirmation in 5min once I have sent the funds (although they might not clear until monday) KJ The next thing u need is the needle caps...have a look at my FTO cluster below!! sorry about it being bright...

Kezza... I def. wont the bezzels...but as I PMd u I already have the dials! SO put me down for then mo matter the price..PM me the details and I will make payment asaP. kj

ya its easy...I have doneit a few times wont take u more than 5min once the cluster is out. KJ. btw thats a great price for this product...I paid double for the same FTO one.

coil packs...good condition??? have they got the std. hair-line crack in them??? A close up pic would be good.

yeah must be full...its a general rule for all cars enetered in Autosalon....safety reasons of course...

not really just with those mods its quite unusual.

lady owner??

Krispy Kreme??? wtf is Krispy Kreme in Melb !!!! i need to know!! heheh oh and good stuff with the house...sound slike a drama...never rely on anyone to do the best thing by u...look after urself as sometimes no1 else will. congrats

as usual they are not really correct...but results off all my CAI setups show (on my fto) has 7kwatw more with the new pipe form the pod to the TB and with the new snokrel from the grill into the boxed area. I have seen similar gains with my CAI setup on my R33. never just put a pod and sit it in the engine bay...total waste of time as they were saying. box it up...get more air into the area etc..its CAI after all... lol now how is this about oil??

thats not exactly true. More surface area allow for more airflow with a given restriction. I use UniFilter pod filters they have heaps better filter protection than paper and most other pod filters... u wanna know the specs (most engine wear is caused by dust >> 15 micron) Paper filiments have holes that allow dust of 30-40 microns through Oiled paper << 20microns Cotton Gauze -<< 45 microns Unifilter Oiled Foam << 4 microns now for restriction ratings.. Paper as a base rating Oiled paper ~2% more restrictive Cotton Gauze - ~25% LESS restrictive Unifilter Oiled Foam ~24% LESS restrictive Unifilter is used by leading racing teams...its Aussie made and simly one of the best designs around.

hehe I wish, its only and FTO and its already hooked up....here's a pic Actually I have polished caps over the centre parts now also...just no pics...I think it looks hot...and night it lights up the colors of the numbers..

all the lowered springs do is restrict the amount of travel u have in ur shocks...hence they cannot absorb as much shock....if there are on std shocks there is no doubt u will wear out the bump stops...but thats not a big deal...these can be replaced...get your springs wrapped in some whiteline spring wrap...its cheep, protects the springs and also stops the "clunk" noise when u hit them hard...the lowered springs by restricting the travel "stiffen" up the ride... I have Koni's (sport) in my FTO and will put the same in my R33 soon...I will put lowers springs but just enough to make it look good and retain a really good ride...also rememebr that after lowering a lot u tyres will rub on full lock (usually) The tyres and their profile also have a big effect on ur suspension...a lot of people go 19" with 40s and fully skick lowered action..looks great but rides like crap...handles great. its all up to what u want. Adjustable (dampening) suspension is great...I have it...but if u wanna save $$ just go a non-adj set u'll still be quite happy and as roy said suss out all the bushes and sway bars...that helps alot. I'm intrested in what Roy said and the camber...I have never requested a setting before...who has done this?? just intrested.

Thanks for the info...howveer I'm not sure what HTHS means. Currently I use the 300v 5W-30 in my FTO and plan to use the 10W-40 in my R33...I'm intrested to understand what HTHS means. - High Temp/High Sheer?? not sure exactly how thsi relates...I'm sure u will let me know I agree that the redline product is awsome...although its quite expensive form memory...

mate there are a lot. But u can't buy them easily..I have bought most of mine from the UK and the US. However in the end I found by using a T10 sized std globe (instead of a T5 sized one (pretty comon) I got heas of light...cos $2 from autobahn...but depends on how u install them. Anyway as for the GB....some1 PM's me and I have bought some of someone else who didn't use their from the last GB. Thanks KJ

I know with my FTO which rev's out to about 8k I can't use more than about 30 (operating) in it. If u use a 50 (good for stopping tappets etc!! which is good) is it too thick at high revs...I mean we usually rev it out when we get it some... Although I'm not sure if 40 or 50 will be much different..maybe the Motul oil is better..15W-50 would stop a lot of tappet noise for sure...10W-40 seems pretty normal though...would be a low enough viscosity to be safe at high revs. KJ

Just cos I was confused : 1 bar = 14.5psi so I assume he means the extra 2.5psi is lost cos of the extra heat. hehe

u can use a good old spanner...if u have a big enough one u can get soem leaverage...or use a pipe to extend it...it shouldn't be that hard though.

I have the same sounds and I'm not sure what it is really...myabe it is the wheel bearing. But form my experience when the bearing is gone it makes a more low pitched grinding noise...I will take off the wheel and have a go...