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hypergear

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Everything posted by hypergear

  1. Make a full 3inch intake pipe from turbo outlet to pod. That allows turbo drawning air lot easier, faster response, more torque, and stops pinning at certain timing as EGT rises when greater engergy is required forcing turbine spinning. Give that a shot when free, In theory the internals of that high flow should handel some where upto 230rwkws on a Rb20det.
  2. Stock RB20 HyperGear ATR43SS1 (none PU version) turbo internally gated bolton to stock manifold. 3" Turbo Back Exhaust Nistune tuned Pump 98 Fuel FMIC 480cc Injectors Bosch 040 Fuel Pump 3inches hard intake pipe with Pod 227rwkw (green) @ 18psi
  3. Not bad for rb20 high flow. Did you end up making a 3inch metal intake pipe or was that still with factory rubber pipe?
  4. The best option would still be high flowing the stock turbo if you are keeping the car. as most of 2nd hand turbos are at their last legs either way. We replace not just larger steel wheels, but the complete CHRA, its more of getting a brand new turbo back in stock housings. You do not need to replace the turbo again on engine change or rebuild, it can produce lot more power with better relaibility then stock turbo once upgrades are installed.
  5. Except definition of "full boost" is differ. I don't have a boost reading yet, The point of where power starts to sprad is not where it reaches full boost. 195rwkws was archeived by the SS1 on lower boost based on the blue line. I'm going by the information his tuner sent at this stage.
  6. Been told by the tuner the yellow line was what the car had on stock turbo after it was tuned. It was back for return after new turbo was installed, Blue line was the SS1 on a lower boost and Green was final tune on 18psi. That turbo had about the same response as a stock 21U turbo on a Rb25det.
  7. Little update: This is sent in from a member. Using an ATR43SS1 (none PU version) on a stock RB20det with usual mods. Car made 227rwkws on 18psi. Green is final tune, and Yellow is his previous tune on stock turbo. Running pump 98 fuel.
  8. The power to boost level seems to be correct, the rear housing on that is pretty big for what it is. I don't like people unloading those actuators tensions. Pop it off and make sure its correctly loaded. that flat shape down low indicates its loosely shut. Or send the high pressure actuator back swapping for a 14psi one, correctly load it then use the EBC. EBC helps holding the boost curve consistent up top. 12afr is tinny bit lean for my like, Trent normally run them at 11.5, won't matter much. You can goto see DVZ, he tuned one last year that the curve matched pretty close to mine.
  9. The Silvia you see on youtube has one fitted and running for the past 5 years. I occationally uses them on the test car, works fine. Internal wise I've machined them to run on dual springs fully adjustable. Size wise G3 is one trim larger then a 3076 with 2mms bigger in comp inducer and turbine exducer. I think might also be an slightly bigger turbo then a T67.
  10. Can high flow that to some thing similar to a 2860 or 71 with good response and drivability. Can also high flow them in to G3 specifications which one member in NS made 290rwkws on pump 98 with, how ever its bit laggy for a SR20det. Bit update on turbine designs, I'm working on another model based on .82 G3s by keeping combustion circulating longer inside the turbine housing before final exist, hopefully speeding up turbine wheel at higher rpm without increasing combustion pressure. If every thing works according to plan this method would deliver even better ending result then the current fnt setup.
  11. SS1PU is the latest version. The Model 1.5xx is the older trailing version. If you are after a responsive 250~280rwkws the SS1PU is the one to get.
  12. I've got some more sheets sent in today so I'll mention it. Tuners I use in Melbourne are experienced. How ever some of others are lacking of skills. The tune made more difference then any thing else in terms of power delivery, response, drivability and reliability. This is the same car that we did FNT comparison earlier. This is the difference between his original tune when he came in from ACT and final tune when he left Melbourne. Red is his original tune, and Green is final tune. Note the original AFR in red. The car pined badly that we could not complete a dyno run. If any one's result is substantially differ to controlled result assume all hardware are 100%. Check your tune map, and use my mine as reference. Ultimately drive your car in.
  13. ^^ Above turbo were made for a VW 4S dealer in China. Got some feedbacks from them today. This turbo was fitted to a 01 Model 1.8LT Auto Bora. They were measuring 0~100 acceleration using D-box. The 0~100KM acceleration time from a factory was 10.5 sec ATR28G1 high flowed turbo and every thing else factory, the 0~100KM acceleration time was 9.4 sec with plenty of wheel spin. Its pretty interesting that we are compares RPM vs Power vs Boost, probably due to lack of skilled modifier and tuners, all they are interested is in 0~100km acceleration time. How ever that was a pretty good start.
  14. LoL. Power of dreams with a blast of worm air. Here's the result of Turbo Vs NA: The VCT plug fell out and remain unnoticed. Below is with no VCT:
  15. Not Jeffs. The other car with the G3 has a made in china return flow that went burning hot after 1 run and took agers to cool. Buy the cross over ones like mine with a decent 600x300x75mm core. That gives the best performance.
  16. The torque curve was pretty wide on mine and abes. It Might have some thing to do with his return flow cooler. Thats the one went burning hot after 1 run and took 3 mints to cool.
  17. Got some data from a customer's R34 yesterday running a FNT .82 G3 vs Jeff's std .82 PU high flow on 18psi. There is about 250rpms differences in response with lot better road drivability.
  18. Well at moment most of my results are based on bolting turbos to stock setup. It appears that factory manifold can only flow so much on pump 98. Up size the turbo made laggier mid range but no difference in top end. To get more power I need high mount manifold, ext gate and custom every thing else. I will come to it eventually. The turbo is just a part, the control result is based on a car that has no restrictive or EPA components, healthy engine, quality supporting mods, tuned by one of the best tuners, so it should be the best as you can get with the turbo that is on it, control results are very achievable. Tuner's skills makes a hug difference in power out put, turbo response and drivability. I've just had an customer came in from ACT with a local tune full of knock afr at 14, car droves like crap. After re-tune at Status the car made more power, picked up 500RPMs better in response and drove heaps smoother. I will have that result for posting in few days. Also I need to talk about intercoolers. I'm not sure what they are making them out of this days in China, Customer bought a China return flow, it gets very hot after one run and takes 3 mints on front of a dyno fan to cool down. While the PWR (on test car) only gets little worm after 6 runs and plazamans was cold from start to end (Abe’s car). Its a good idea to pick a better coolers that can exchange heat more efficiently.
  19. haha lol. yes its like on drugs, the ideas of FNT and SS did shown up like that. I've also got an idea of altering turbine A/R through FNT nozzle, which I'm trailing out on the new high flows.
  20. The earlier models are very time and cost consuming its impossible to sale. They are deep groove bearings which run thrust plate. The current model run angular contact bearings which get rid of the thrust plate, so the thrust load are pressed onto the collar that sits on bearings. Problems is all bearings and shaft collars must rotate uniformly, means they must be secured. When the turbo is under heat the thermo expansion alters the collar tolerance, forces the comp wheel out of alignment and bents the shaft. So we've modeled couple of spring system that takes out the thermo expansion but not the thrust load. I’m trailing them individually and some are working considerably well. Its more or less of a hobby thing, I still believe the floating are still more reliable as there are no bearing contacts while the roller bearings are engaged all times. The rolling object in side the bearing cartridge are harder then the cage it self so it will wear it out over time. Depending on the out come of the evaluation I’m hopping to see an improvement over the current thrust bearing setup.
  21. First of all, happy new year every one. SS1PU is a totally different turbo to the SS1 and I found its a lot better turbo with similar sort of response. Pulls lot harder. I'm currently evaluation CBB G3, customized turbine housings and few different billet high flow profiles at this stage, will have some results posted soon.
  22. back pressure makes no sound. It can make your EGT goes very high and causing issues for motor and turbo. Possibly some sort of leaks in the exhaust side.
  23. turbo should be missing a rear wheel by now. Pull the dump pipe off and have a look.
  24. Turbo sounds dead. Did that came from a Ford XR6?
  25. The seals are just a steel C clip. Its more of the thrust collar ate worn into the thrust bearing causing a play in the shaft. Mean the whole wheel assembly gets pushed towards the comp cover. There is a 20 thou clearance between the wheels and housings. if the bearings has worn beyond that point the wheels would've been rubbing then that would be pointless to rebuild. Means get your self a new core. If not then it just needs sand blasting, balancing and a brand new set of "genuine" rebuild kit.
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