hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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Thats when the ECU is not responding to the Software on mine, which either the ecu over rids the software command and uses the original knock data, or if the software is unable to program that section of the ecu. But I haven’t seen this on R34s yet. -
Here is the Nistune file: http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43g3/atr43g3ss382.bin download and have a quick look through it. Its running 550cc injectors, My AFR is between 11~11.5 pretty much all the way, and Trent mentioned it was a pretty safe tune. So was yours actually tuned with a ecu fault? does it switching it self into knock mod and looks for knock data instead of normal data at certain rpms?
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Halando this remains me six month ago when you are having issues running the G2, Which made a super laggy 199rwkws lol. and it made more power then my test car after realizing the tune issue. You are back in the same situation, and I can tell you that if your power or boost curve is significantly lower to my test result then there is some thing wrong with other parts of your car. Think, diagnose and fix. I would pull the external gate off and have a look at the sealing ring inside the flange (or was that ever installed?). If that is not sealed then it would be pretty laggy. Also I didn't like your external gate either, the spring in it was too soft, I can press it all the way down with my thumb. The 44mm gate that I'm using is about 5x times harder then yours, and fully adjustable in pressure load (yours is not). 2ndly your ecu is not running correctly, Looks like it switched it self into knock map at certain RPMs and the ecu is not responding to the knock data sent from the Nistune software. This was a problem that we couldn't fix on my S2 R33. you need to get advise from Nistune people. With installation, it still runs mostly stock parts. This is a $300 4 hours job that we carry out every week in vic. Fright your car to Melbourne and drive it back with every thing installed and tuned if any of yous are over quoted. And there is no way making and installing custom dumps, lines and every thing else costs less money or labor time. Also with your dyno day result, it shown 319rwhp on 5600RPMs and backed off, which you are making exact amount at 5600RPMs on your 390rwhp sheet except the peek power at 7000RPMs was never shown. That was not a complete dyno run. Below is my timing and fuel map of test car on the G3. Fix your ECU and check your external gate then use that as reference for retune. Should end up with exact same result as mine, and that is a totally different driving experience.
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^^ Also with above reading it looks like its got a very strange chunk of power band missing down low, I'm not sure if that is due to the ECU problem. I'm seeing trent tomorrow night, and I will get a copy of the AFR and timming map from his computer for your reference. 18/02/12: Above was later found with VCT disabled.
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That is because the boost was was still at 15psi at 7000RPMs. And that actuator should not run thing less then 18psi, it shouldn't been pulled apart on installation, I delt the tuner adjusted either. Preload the actuator, up 5psi by 7000rpms then that will make over 300rwkws. on the same time check for any flow related restrictions. How ever thats only if the tuner's happy to run the extra boost. That turbo have no issues doing over 300rwkws on stock manifold. That is the intake pipe I'm running: Wasn't a SS2, That was a G3
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I'm pretty sure who ever modified the actuator bracket didn't pre-load it (because its too hard lol). Load another 3mms into the extend that will hold 20psi flate. Once more boost is held up top it will bring the top end power even further. Have a play with it, you should be able to get around the 300rwkws mark on shoot out mod.
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ATR46 should do that fine. it runs a .70 comp with a 1.20 turbine. That turbo is designed for a XR6 upgrade. Will make the power, but not sure what response that would be.
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lol thats like tunning my S2 R33 on nistune. It switches it self between normal map and Knock map, well you can make knock map exactly the same as the normal map. Well if that is case I can refund you for that bit of screamer pipe we've made. Let me know if you do decide on a new ecu, I can supply you an adaptronic plugin cheap and no need for AFM. And once fixed try abit more boost into it, should be able to push out around 420rwhp on stock manifold.
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I don't think there is an limit on nistune, Maybe a faulty ecu or data corruption in the chip? was it a hard drop in power then picks backup up again after certain rev range like a 2nd lunch when its gone wired? Std high flow on a R33 turbo can do around 240rwkws I'm not too confident on 250rwkws how ever there's a customer's got 260rwkws. You need injectors, ecu, cooler and free flow exhaust. Get injectors from cleaninjection on ebay from USA for $400 Adaptronic ecu for $1100 Cooler kit $400 ebay special will do Exhaust $800 3inch turbo back Std high flow inc oil line: $960 All up: $3260 Assume DIY.
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Well is it creeping boost? the Diameter of that pipe is in exact diameter of the outlet of your external gate, and just run through with no restrictions. Any difference with your tuner's screamer pipe? interested to see the dyno reading once finished.
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I really don't like workshops play with the fitment of the actuator as is was set like that for a reason, Remove the actuator bracket with the actuator to allow tools go in But don't take the actuator off the bracket as it is setup evenly on a jig to the wastgate nipple loaded and pressure tested. Not only that they would charge you good couple of hours marking around with it hopefully get it back to where it was. I hope they lined it up with the wasetgate nipple and loaded it correctly or its going to be super laggy and unable to hold boost. It would be good if your tuner becomes aware of that before tuning.
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Photos of your engine bay would be great. Please make sure it has at least 3 inches metal intake system (G3 should run 4inches) with a very free flow exhaust before dyno tuning. Also make sure the wastegate actuator is pre-loaded to original spec (3mms) if it has been removed during installation We charge $300 for installation here that takes 4 hours to do. It would be a good idea to read through the DIY guides before starting the job. Intake side must be changed regardless and check page 1 for cheap DIY intake setup. I'm ripping out my turbo Tuesday and will take videos of the installation.
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^^^^ Who makes that pipping kit? need one asap. I'm not too sure what K03 that is, I've been told its from Chinese 1.8L T WV passet I believe. doesn't really matter we can high flow most of turbos.
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He’s running a Plazaman plenum. In theory shorter cooler piping reduces lag as the length in air travel is shorter, with less volume to fill, same as bigger or smaller coolers. Mine and Abe's car are identical in setup except shorter cooler piping and plenum, E85 should also have some effects as well. I’m also in the process of designing a shorter piping on the plenum side, should make a difference.
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Check here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__pid__6051685__st__2700 The E85 run has forward facing plenum that runs 1/3 of piping compare to mine which also run over the engine bay. Appears most people with forward facing plenums do run shorter cooler piping pickups better response then others whom run cross over piping.
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Thats the Current ATR43G3 in .82 rear. Also If you can actually pickup about 600RPMs of better response by getting rid of that big cooler pipe goes across the engine bay.
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I will have a think about making some sort of a bracket that holds that rubber pipe.
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For the drain You can modify the stock drain pipe with a bit of high quality heater hose from Repco (cost $14/M): Installation guide with the G3 is at page 39: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__760 I just had a piece of 90 degrees 2.5 inches pipe from turbo to cooler piping then just poded the front at that time. Or just a 4inches 45 degrees hose with a straight pipe and pod. With the rubber pipe generally if it doesn't touch it won't burn. If it does looks like going to touch then we normally put a small whole on the the end of of and pull it back against the bracket with a small zip tie. also can you send me a photo of your engine bay? must be a very neat setup I'm installing another SS3 prototype I will post some photos of how that looks like on my car and whats required.
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K04's got a different bolt pattern. I was originally thought about using a K04's core which would be an easy job, how ever I don't think it can work well with the K03's tinny turbine housing. ATR28G1 Core is lot bigger then a K04, and the far apart turbine blade arrangement allows the motor to breath lot better. Would definitely pull out more torque and power.
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I've charged our client $1100 AUD each. those are very hard to do, also note how their dump pipe is in 90 degrees, which we had to make a custom holder to sit it on a large low speed lath. Also every thing break through when comes to machining, had to brace every thing up, a huge job to high flow. But I'm sure they will work well.
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Any way, back to the high flow agenda. We've picked up few jobs from few Chinese 4S dealers this year. I found this pretty interesting so I post it up. Turbo below is a K03 from a new VW 1.8T. Its a tinny turbo for the engine size and runs off an plumbed back external gate setup similar to the EFR turbos. In here the turbine housing needs to hold the exploding wheel in case of failur, so the housing castings are pretty thick, this one is like photo paper thin, the casting just go right through when comes to machining. Have to weld and patch up all the bits that did gone through and here it is : This is a ATR28G1 core in stock housings, should support from 150HP stock to roughly 280HP.
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I would prefer rebuild as no one knows whats in the 2nd hand motor. I've bought a used motor when my first motor blew, luckily we pulled it apart for a quick look, find cyc 1 & 2 had broken ring lands, bought it back swapped for another one that had broken ring land 6. When I was on turbo jobs at JSA, they swapping motors every day as some of their imported cars needs engine replacement, many of the 2nd hand engines they've bought locally aren't really better then what came out. Rebuild it properly is a way better option. Yes on the comp side, turbine side is larger. can be machined out.
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Well no one can fix up yesterday. He's main objective is getting his engine back together soon as possible. Below is what I've done building my test rig, follow that you should have a very solid engine with out spending heaps of cash: I've rang around for the best prices on all parts I got: 1. CP pistons 0.5mm over sized from CJmotors 2. ACL bearings, ARP head studs, and full gasket set from MD spares. I've paid about $1500. Find a good engine re-bore service locally, get them to bath your engine block, re-bore your cycs refer to piston specifications, fit pistons and crank together as a short engine. I've paid $650 If you are technically minded from there you can assemble it your self (mmmm not good idea). Or take it to a trust worthy workshop to have it assembled and dropped in. I've paid $1000 So all up my rebuild cost just under $3200 and its been holding together well since. If you wish going slightly bigger in turbo I can help you getting that done free.
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There is 160mm of clearance between turbo and chassis, Generally none dump pipes will sit that much back, but more depending on direction it sits. Have a look at the photos. some of them are straight and some angles towards the chassis, the once that are angled are more likely touches that abit of rubber. Our turbine housings are made on a fixed fig, cut on a cnc machine with fixed program, every single one are exactly the same. Those dump pipes are not, explains most fits and some don't. For the ones do touch, its a 10mints job relocating that soft rubber pipe. Or we can supply external gated 5 bolt ATR43G3 at a lot cheaper price so customers are welcome to make their own dumps.
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std high flow would has the best drivability which cost $960 inc GST and braided oil line or use PU high flow that also capable of 300rwkws cost $1400 with a brand new .82 rear housing and actuator. The 3540 sort of high flow cost $1200 using all stock housings, I didn't like they way how it drives, its very laggy.
