hypergear
-
Posts
4,102 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
25 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by hypergear
-
This is some photos taken from my S2 R33 using the same turbine housing on Xforce SS Front pipe. I can possibly trim out another 5mms out of the turbine housing without actually alter the physical geometry. Depending on the shape of the aftermarket front pipe. Any way fitting the SS1xx requires more work and we will leave as that. G3 is bigger then a SS2, So on Rb30det for good response sub 300rwkws G3 is fine, but for more power with abit more lag go for the G4. -
Need to cut a chuck out of the rear housing, brace it back after machining, then stick in a baby trim 3540 size core, that makes 300rwkws+. Looking from out side its still a stock turbo.
-
Fortunately that sheet was sent from a customer, not a test car result. Have a read through the thread, every one made similar power figure as test car as long as they followed instruction guide and with the right setup. I can high flow a stock OP6 turbo to make 300rwkws+. Except it drives like crap.
-
Well it is an aftermarket turbocharger working with bunch of other aftermarket parts, Turbine housing was jigged based on my own skylines, did not foul on any parts in mine and the majority of cars we've fitted the turbos to. I'll add additional installation information referring to feedbacks received in the main page when occurs. I will try to make some alterations for aftermarket exhausts suiting stock turbo, based on the assumption that it will not affect any parts of the turbo's performance. How ever be prepared working for few extra hours fitting up any aftermarket products. We will always be happy to help or assist if required. Back to the prototype 11 blade comp wheel. It worked better but not as good as our original SS1PU design. Sheets from standard cast 71mm wheel, note boost drop was due to a split rubber hose wasn't spotted during time been: Our original SS1PU customized Billet 71mm wheel. 11 Bladed 71mm wheel (thin green line, ss1pu thick green line) All 3 turbos had identical exhaust housing, wheel and wastegate setup. The billet 11 blade 71mm wheel out performed the standard cast wheel by 18kws with 150RPMs of extra lag. How ever our customized 6 pair bladed 71mm wheel out performed the 11 blader by 20kws with 200rpms of better response, which is still the best performer. Looking at the 11 blade drawning, big chucks of blades covered greater inducing areas, they weighted more and coops with greater surge. It made more power which I believe that was mainly due to larger trim size with a smaller wheel hub. Compare to SS1PU's drawning, even so that comp inducer is smaller, it has larger gaps between blades, it weights less, span easier, pumped greater volume, and it has clearly shown on the dyno reading. That result was quite predicted.
-
Thats the rubber pipe part that sticks out you are referring to I believe. That depending on the angle and length of pre-made aftermarket dump pipe, there were few which fouled from the ones we've installed, basically secure it to the chassis with a zip tie. When comes to a larger turbine housing then it has to be bigger in overall physical size. So in some cases minior adjustments needs to be made.
-
We've fitted few of those to customer's cars, most of them on side. the photos taken from the DIY page was done by my mechanic and I normally install it differently on my own cars as that way I don't have to get under the car. And when I say force it in, the restraint is just the bit of tension from the rubber hangers, which the C bracket takes car of that once secured, there really isn't any thing restraining on the front part of the pipe which passes onto the manifold or the studs. I've taken few photos of the ss1pu's rear housing next to a stock housing. As you can see its only marginal taller, there are enough clearance for that on the exhaust side: I also found many workshops exaggerate the work they are doing so their customers are happy to pay more. If you are doing it your self it’s not a big deal.
-
Needs to be around 15mm as this is a lot larger turbine housing then stock, plus it needs to have the opening clearance for the internal gate, so it actually needed that bit of extra clearance.
-
Its sits about 15mms father back as in total length wise, We've fitted few it won't bend any studs or any thing, plus once the C holder is secured, it will take most of the loads. So I wouldn't worry about bending studs and cracking manifolds and etc from it. So far none of the once we've fitted had issues, you can fit flex pipe if you want to, but not really necessary. All the turbine housings are made ona Jig so every single one are exactly the same.
-
The plate in the back is 15mms , just force it on and tighten all the bolts. No need for any flexible hoses, the rubber hangers holding the exhaust is flexible it self. Turbine housing and manifold is made from casted steel, they are very hard materials, won't stress the turbo. And Scott the exducer on comp side is 71mm. I think that would be very interesting running on a SR20det motor.
-
The whole exhaust sits on rubber hangers right, there are plenty of free play. There is bracket that is holding the cat, loose up that bracket and there will be plenty of free play. I don't normally disconnect the front pipe from the cat. This is how I fit it: 1. Connect the front pipe to the cat 2. Loosen up the C bracket holding the cat to chassis 3. Fit 6 studs and dump gasket on to the rear end of the turbo 4. Fit the turbo onto the dump pipe and loosely tighten the dump nuts 5. Loose fit the turbo onto the manifold and follow the DIY instructions on the water lines. 6. Secure all bolts and nuts 7. Secure the C bracket. Or this is how my mechanic normally does it: 1. Loosen up the C bracket 2. Disconnect the front pipe from cat 3. Secure the turbo to manifold via diy instructions 4. Secure the dump pipe. 5. Connect the dump pipe to cat. 6. Secure the C bracket
-
sure. no worries.
-
I can supply the E420D piggyback for dirt cheap, its a good pick as far as money concern. The plug in version that I've had worked pretty well on Rb25det, and software is quite user friendly. How ever I don't have any personal experiences with 1JZ, it should work as good.
-
They are 15mm spacers, you can use stainless or high tensil studs in m10x1.5mm thread x 40mm length. I've got mine from Supercheap auto, they are high tensil hex studs comes in those champion bolts and nuts packs, cut the hex stud head off with a grinder and there's the perfect studs. From memory I've paid $8 for the pack also came with 4x 17mm nuts. Yea, I pmed him last night for upgrade, I think the new 11 blade prototype SS1PU should work excellently for track work as the power delivery of that is so linear it almost felt like a V8. But not sure if his class restrictions allow complete aftermarket turbos.
-
Thats ok, I will mail you out a spacer monday, and every thing should bolt up.
-
mm I remember sending a 15mm spacer plate with the turbo. Please check the box. Also I've left the screamer pipe abit longer then whats required so there will be enough materials for plumb back extension, but other wise it can be cut short. updating some video footages: Down hill run on a GTST R33 with our std high flow setup from ssxracer Same car at PIARC philips island
-
If you run above as a twin on a 2.5L then that would be 1.25L per turbo. Which I think a .64 is too big, need to run a .49 size. I can supply you a SS1PU in a T3 with 5 bolt Garrett pattern to run as single on a 2.5L, is that same pattern as T28 or the GTR?. Dynosheet of that on the Rb25det is http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1pu/280811/power.jpg http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1pu/280811/boost.jpg
-
Yea if engine capacity decreases then that would be same as the above turbo with a larger turbine housing. And with two of them they will make almost twice amount of power as a single.
-
But aren't you be running them as a twin on a GTR?
-
Thats on a Rb25det. its this one here: http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1/billet/atr43ss1billet.jpg http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1/billet/atr43ss1billetboost.jpg Be very interested to see what it would do as twin on a GTR.
-
They are very similar to a RS on a .64 rear. reminds me when I first trailed the SS1PU with a .64 rear housing which made 23psi by 2800RPMs and maxed 266rwkws. By lowering the engine capacity I think it has a pretty good chance of making the power with crazy response.
-
After all those years of testing and evaluations We've developed a very solid bearing setup. I can high flow them with G1 or G2s CHRA which works well, or we can use the new SS1PU's CHRA and see what they can do in those housings.
-
Every thing must be fully tested, and evaluated. Half of my new/old designs don't work when comes to testing, however they should work on paper. Even dyno proven they needs to be trailed through various of hash driving, then gets pulled apart making sure nothing abnormal happens to its components before I can sale it and quote on a "rwkws" it makes. Also only knowing this turbo works is not enough, We also trail what a specific turbo behaves if its not installed correctly or did not have correct mods. Those information can guide customers if an issue occurs. For us building and selling turbos is not "only" building and selling turbos. Regarding to turbine wheels I can get them made out of titanium, which weights 30% less. But it comes with a very high manufacturing cost, and I don't know if I can sell them at a high price thou.
-
The TR43 was pretty old and no long been made for a long time. For the wheels to contact housings it needs about 20 thous of play means bearing's worn, generally oil related. I still got a box of the old stuff which I can give you for free, does cost much to rebuild either (like $100). Actually it made this sound on down spool, remove intake pipe and check shaft play first. If doesn't have any play then it might not be not an turbo issue. You can't put GTR turbos on GTST. Totally different pattern.
-
Turbo is dead. Thats from wheels hitting its housing. is this turbo running the oil feeding line supplied with it? or was it 2nd hand from some one else. We haven't built another TR43 since 2008. Best bring it in for a quick check up give me a ring on 0413457185 before drop by.
-
Turbo oil thread is M10x1.25, water is stock size which is M18x1.5, engine end fitting is M12x1.25 About turbine wheels. they are normally friction welded to the shaft so turbine wheel and shaft are 2 pieces. The wheels are wax casted, if the shape is not uniform then it would not balance. Materials they are generally steel or inconel (tinny percent) mixed steel. Most of performance wheels are inconel mixed or rarely titanium. Wheels just spins, pushing or pushed by air, it won't explode unless they have large air bubbles or some thing like that. They normally explodes when bearing collapse causing wheels striking into its housings at high shaft speed. Most of that energy will be absorbed by the shaft so it bents or twist.
