hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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I've had the test car tuned current FNT ATR43G3's this evening. Basically straps on, internally gated on 98 fuel. The most it made was 330rwkws on 23psi, and 320rwkws on 20psi. The runs were performed with a high pressure actuator internally gated. The 20psi run is without boost controller. The No.s were very consistant. This turbo doesn't get hot at all. Compare to the older G3 there is small difference on paper but huge in driving ability. -
Yes a billet electric supercharger that makes 7~10psi boost with a 1200HP Compressor. Need to work out in car wiring and its pretty much ready for testing.
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Little progress on the GenEses charger. Prototype compare to a SS1PU will be evaluating in the next few weeks.
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yea. even on 347rwkws that was on stock manifold.
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Its a .82 rear ended ATR43G3 unit, straped on a stock Rb25det with injectors, exhaust cooler and pfc.
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The SS series is a turbo that is very specifically made for RB25det. Won't work on your Rb30det. Also the G3 result used on the chart is not based on the current version. I should have some current G3 results this weekend.
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I'm pretty sure the .82 equivalent in a twin scroll is a .84 rear housing. So by cutting in the divider I probable ending up with a .80 rear.
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I've sold a few sets in the past few years. None returns so far, the feedbacks on them are pretty good. But I haven't seen any one using them on high powered setups yet. (I don't carry them now, get them direct from xforce) Their standard 3inch turbo back system worked pretty good with their cat knocked out. How ever they are considered loud. The other best exhaust I've had was the HKS silient power system. It wasn't cheap, made only 4kws difference out of 314rwkws setup (310rwkws exhaust on, and 314rwkws exhaust off). They are pretty quite on the road.
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You can find FNT feed back from Random in page 87. Check index on page 1. Any way. lots of talk about twin scroll turbine housings. At this stage I'm not convinced that they has a "major" affect but welling to do some tests. So, we all know the air gap inside the turbine housing is the height of the inducer blade of the turbine wheel. By placing a metal strip in between and half the gap is actually reducing the area of the gap enabling higher air velocity. To me this is another way of sacrificing top end power for down low response unless the size of the turbine wheel and housing is in a reasonably large size. Theoretically I can archive this behavior by reducing the gap height at only 60~70% of the turbine wheel top without the divider in the center. I've done a drawing converting single scrolled turbine housing into a twin scroll item, internal or dual gate bolt on to stock setup of course. Good thing is I can setup dual effective FNT nozzles inside that housing for even better response. I'll be doing a back to back tests using a G3 core. hopefully it’s worth the effort. Any way, Do post up if you have any experiences or back to back tests with single to twin scroll turbine housings.
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It did 11.8 without Nos. from that car's dyno reading: The Nos added about 35kws. Those are old school turbos. The Fnt G3 he should be getting the same power curve without Nos. Is this car still racing today?
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Here are the links for the raw footage from Abe's car at winton from roof mounted and door mounted cameras. http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/abphotos/topcam.wmv http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/abphotos/sidecam.wmv
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Pretty much what ever you see on our website. Here is a mixed of older, current and under development products. Once a better product is developed, the older version of it is automatically discontinued and replaced. Just like the ATR43G3s built in 2008 is a completely different turbo to what it is today. The Youtube video quality is so bad compare to my original footage, I’m seeing many familiar cars. Yours might be in the footage. I will post an http link once they are uploaded.
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That was a old TR44 turbo. They are the ancestors for the current ATR43G3. I still have few housings and wheels for those used as door stoppers at moment. Can put them together for $450 with 12 month warranty for any one whom wants one. Externally gated only. Also some winton drifting footage from Abe's car. It made 290rwkws using the old ATR43G3 none FNT version. Its currently making 347rwkws with the FNT update on E85. Should be seeing him hitting the track soon. Edit / add: The youtube quality sucks, you can down low the raw footages from links below: Door mounted camera http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/abphotos/sidecam.wmv Roof mounted camera http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/abphotos/topcam.wmv
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This one is pretty alright. Wasn't getting very hot. Turbo was ok. We didn't get too many runs as the rubber hose caught on fire. Floged it this morning with all the rubber hoses replaced and its so much fun with external gate.
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This is the new SS2 prototype trail using the external gate turbine housing. It actually made about 300rpms better in response. how ever didn't help when the car caught in fire. lol. One of the rubber hose expanded under pressure and torched on the exhaust manifold. Well, made 293rwkws when fire broke out. lol. Will do a bit more trailing in later stages.
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Ok, Lets talk about heat: Turbo mentioned above was an old Rb25det 21U high flow unit. The heat issue is related to the size of the factory rear housing. There is very little can be done to it unless using a .82 PU rear housing. You can track that all day without losing power or torque. How ever high flowing a turbo is very different to building a brand new turbo there are certain behaviors that can not be changed unless the part gets remade. PU option is available depending on the purpose of high flowing. 21U and OP6 high flow options has been updated in Jun 09 and Jan 11. The later profiles produces more power with better response. I’m quite skeptical about heat. One thing that I dyno trail is going through consecutive dyno runs. All the new turbos came up with very close No.s on all runs. Like the SS1PU, SS2 and G3 all came up within 5kws difference out of 10 runs, and none of them had colour change by the end of the trail. There are certain prototypes which do gets hot after few runs, turbine housing colour changes, and we had to keep on taking out timing to stop it detonate. They were used getting behavioral data of the combination and a starting point of on a newer turbo. Those prototypes are not sold to the public. Other thing I've mentioned earlier that I will mention again is the intake and exhaust restrictions. Heat will be generated when the turbo has trouble sucking or dispatching air. When this happens turbine shaft speeds down trapping hot air inside combustion chamber. Having a free flow setup is critical to any high performance setup. Also we can make any SS series with dual gate setup on request. External gate provides very stayable boost control as well as keeping the EGT low. Run Ext gate on tracks and int gate on road.
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For fast response 280rwkws I would recommend the SS1PU version with a 20psi actuator. By the way I'm doing some modifications to the SS2, not sure if it will work, but if so, I should get 300rwkws with SS1's response.
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I've seen Trent doing it while ago. Remove the throttle body, which leaves you with a opening to fit your hand and tools. After removing all the brackets holding the fuel rail and plugs you can pull it out with all the injectors. Do the same putting it back. Not an easy task.
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From experience a small leak won't affect boost drop by alot. If you are taking it back to the dyno make sure you have a pod filter or a air box with no lid and filter.
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I lost 11kws on a 260rwkws setup with 2 holes cut on the side of the lid, So it was removed straight way. How ever I've never thought any one would run stock air box with hard intake pipe. Lillcrash is trying to gain 3psi up top and it appeared to have some effects on boost level. So keen to see if that did make a difference.
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It appears the air box and pannel filter is affecting your boost level. Air required can not flow through that tinny hole on the lid. You obviously had more boost with perfromance gain when the lid and filter is out. Drop actuator pre-load to normal level, Get a big pod filter, get rid of that air box, or remove the panel filter (Panel filter will also restrict flow) and drill few wholes on the lid. Once done you should get the normal amount of boost and power level, that will also drop your inlet and exhaust gas temperture.
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Won't work. and don't try. How ever you can drill couple of holes on the lid and run it with no filter. Either way whole point of having a 4inch inlet is to run a 4inch intake pipe with a big pod filter.
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Yes every thing bolton. Need a 4inch hard intake pipe and a 2.5 inches 90 degrees hose. Above was performed on stock manifold.
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e85 results from current FNT G3 on stock engine with all bolton gears internally gated. Tune is a little retarded as owner is refusing to more power. Got plenty left. Need better boost controller or external gate also.
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GT2871 is ok for Rb20dets. it maxes 230rwkws on stock r33 housings and gets red hot. If you are looking for high flowing our current std or pu options will perform lot better.
