hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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I lost 11kws on a 260rwkws setup with 2 holes cut on the side of the lid, So it was removed straight way. How ever I've never thought any one would run stock air box with hard intake pipe. Lillcrash is trying to gain 3psi up top and it appeared to have some effects on boost level. So keen to see if that did make a difference. -
It appears the air box and pannel filter is affecting your boost level. Air required can not flow through that tinny hole on the lid. You obviously had more boost with perfromance gain when the lid and filter is out. Drop actuator pre-load to normal level, Get a big pod filter, get rid of that air box, or remove the panel filter (Panel filter will also restrict flow) and drill few wholes on the lid. Once done you should get the normal amount of boost and power level, that will also drop your inlet and exhaust gas temperture.
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Won't work. and don't try. How ever you can drill couple of holes on the lid and run it with no filter. Either way whole point of having a 4inch inlet is to run a 4inch intake pipe with a big pod filter.
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Yes every thing bolton. Need a 4inch hard intake pipe and a 2.5 inches 90 degrees hose. Above was performed on stock manifold.
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e85 results from current FNT G3 on stock engine with all bolton gears internally gated. Tune is a little retarded as owner is refusing to more power. Got plenty left. Need better boost controller or external gate also.
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GT2871 is ok for Rb20dets. it maxes 230rwkws on stock r33 housings and gets red hot. If you are looking for high flowing our current std or pu options will perform lot better.
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Try to pre-load the actuator abit more, also noticed your are running sealed stock air box with lead on. Put a pod filter on it, or remove the led of the air box and filter. Give it in 4th on free way and monitor the boost drop. I think the sealed stock air box with the filter is the problem. Any way, Got some results from a ATR43G3 customer (Mr Abe) now running E85 with best run of 347rwkws: He has brought it back for the FNT turbine upgrade. Its on full stock engine and factory exhaust manifold internally gated. Looks it needs a better boost controller, external gate would be excellent. The tune is a little bit retard, there are heaps more power left in it. How ever he's doesn't want any more .
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Not getting the usual amount of boost there. If you are running a T boost controller means its reducing the vacuum pressure from the actuator. There are only 2x things that could happen. On turbo side: Actuator too soft, its got forced open by exhaust manifold pressure. Compressor wheel too small it’s straggling to feed the engine at given boost level. Those have been tested, plus you are saying its spiking boost, so they are not to be the cases. Restriction stopping turbo from sucking in or dispatching air. Restriction on intake side limits amount of air available. That causes boost drop Exhaust restriction causes high exhaust manifold pressure and slows down shaft speed. I would plug the MAP logging analyzer from the dyno into the out let of the turbo for a run, then do the same from the inlet manifold (not the end tanks of the cooler). If they are identical, I would drop my exhaust from the cat, and do another run. I can swap you with an even stronger actuator if you think its a actuation case, and give you data from Nistune and Adaptronic if you wish to compare timing and fuel logs.
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I'm interested in sorting out the problem. Manual boost controller should be fine. I haven't had issues with that dropping off boost in both of mine cars. Also that SS1 had 2x actuators. I'm wondering if the 7psi was installed during the run. That one won't hold boost. Also looking at Harey's final run: Test car's final run: and normal r33's final run: The final boost reading at 7000rpms should be around 17psi.
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How was it tested? this should be the boost curve with the SS1
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Do plug the gauge pre and after the cooler, and check for boost drops. More details are in page 83:
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Supertech Valvetrain Package ?
hypergear replied to Killer4Ever's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I'm running the supertech Rb25 set in our test car. have no issues. -
Before going for the next tune, Please drive pass and swap for a 20psi actuator once you have the coil packs fixed.
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Simon's made 261rwkws on a stock Rb20det. That is equivalent to 300rwkws+ on an Rb25det. Excellent result. Check all results from ATR43G3s in my thread, Your result with Rb25det is poor and 50kws below average. I don't know whats wrong with the whole package rather then the turbocharger alone. At this stage since its made more power from the car that it came out of, then, I don't think its a turbo issue.
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either Intake or exhaust restrictions causes turbine side to heat up as that stops turbine shaft from spinning. The .82 shouldn't get hot thou. Drop the exhuast and try again. I think the person whom sold you this turbo have made 265rwkws on pretty mild boost before went for the FNT version with larger comp trim. That should be the base line power.
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The .60 is the older version without FNT turbine setup. That had no issues making 300rwkws. Are you running stock intake pipe with EV21 mods? If so Run 3inch metal intake pipe with pod then return with exhaust dropped. Should make 60kws difference.
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yes Auto spools faster and no boost lose during gear shift. They can sit there and do burn out all day.
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Little update: This is from the very first ATR43SS1PU (or referred as a small trimed ATR43ss2) which was fitted to a R33 with rebuilt auto: In general Auto would lose around 20~25kws depending on how it was treated. So manual result would be around the 280rwkws mark. Any way, SS3 with .83 dual gate rear is built. Will be tuned this weekend, hopefully getting the 350rwkws+. The GenEses charger is almost ready, will post some photos later in the week.
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Need ATR43G3 or G4 to work on the RB2530det. Not sure about SS3 in .83 but all other SS series are too small for that engine.
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I'm planning to enable it with either a switch or some thing to the throttle cable or the acceleration paddle. The time it’s going to be activated for is only for couple of secs at once so it shouldn't cause too much drama with the backup battery. I can run it with an big turbocharger making it a twin sequential setup. How ever I think it will be most beneficial to the NA guys. I think the motors will run out of torque to generate any thing more then 6psi, as the boost is a form of compressed air that has a counter force acting against the compressor blades slowing it down or spin it backwards just like when BOV is not present. So it’s reaching an equilibrium pressure level. Also on the same time if more boost is discharged into the engine then there will be less counter pressure allow faster shaft speed might result none boost drop as equilibrium state does not change change in energy input level.
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Yes, I've noticed that. Its not a ducting fan in side a tube. Those ones can't produce any boost. mine is engineered to produce about 7psi of inlet manifold boost pressure. I don't think the batteries power drawn will affect a lot of engine’s performance as the car's only using electricity for its electrical components, comes to the worst, car stalls and won't fire up. I will run it on an insolated power source to make sure the charger it self actually work first. Then sort out the power drawn and other electrical related issues.
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The stock alternator for a Skyline is 14V 60Amp I believe, I will need other small bits and pieces to make the circuit complete. I will think through it once I get the charger working first.
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Little updates on the GenEses electric superchargers: The dawning is roughly complete, we will sit them on the CNC next week to have every thing cut out. Basically it is a consealed duel ceramic ball bearing ATR46 billet version turbocharger running on 3x 100 amps 12V motor in sum of 7HP. It does not require water or oil feeding. I've designed a mini gearbox with 1:8 ratio to up speed the RPMs of the comp wheel to roughly 25000 RPMs. Also keen to see differences from 1:10 and 1:15 ratios during evaluation This should generate about 1 bar of pressure when powered at neutral, Since pressure - vacuum = boost. it should make 10psi of boost depending on the engine size. I will be testing it on my Rb25det with turbo discounted. Assume every thing works as planed (never have) I should see 10psi when I activate the device and it will bleed down to roughly 6psi by 7000RPMs. Thats not alot of boost, How ever 6psi top end with 10psi mid range from a 1000HP turbo compressor should make some power. It will require 2x good quality 12v batteries in a parallel setup for this to work. I will post photos once its assembled.
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Yea true. I have feeling this new ebay manifold is actually a worse performer then factory manifold. I've noticed the colour of the collector below the T3 flange went bright yellowish while the rest is in dall orange. The turbine housing just start to glow till about 22psi. By colour code if I read it right its about 1000 degrees at that point of the collector. The stock manifold also glows, but lot more evenly.
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Supercharger For Extracting Exhaust Gas.
hypergear replied to Rolls's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I think its a good idea to set it up for a small scale test. It shouldn't be expansive. You can get a steel duction fan with external power supply, make some pipes and connect it on to the exhaust for few dyno run and see if that makes any differences based on a small NA engine. Shouldn't burn any thing.
