hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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lol. You'll kill the turbo by running a oil restrictor in it.
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Supercharger For Extracting Exhaust Gas.
hypergear replied to Rolls's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The engine need inlet manifold boost pressure to carry out the more air burn more fuel = more energy theory. By charging the exhaust it can virtually lower exhaust pressure after the turbo. Ie. I run 24psi out of my pretty quite exhaust and I have 6psi in my exhaust by 7000RPMs, Using a very powerful exhaust charger I can get it down to maybe 1~2 psi, might alter tinny bit on the dyno reading up top. How ever running it along would give similar effect as a big exhaust perhaps. Also to get a electric charger powerful enough to produce or suck 6psi you are going to need a 8.4HP electric unit, run that into a 12V setup the current draw is about 600amps? (not exactly sure). Might require less as the dispatching requires less energy then compressing. Try it out and prove it works or not. -
Been busy with the SS3 development at moment. So haven't done much into it yet. I will get back to it when I have more time.
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Its not really a smallish turbo. Its about how the compressed air is dispatched. The only units that did have the old comp housing profile is that Sample unit, Every one whom bought later samples (after 2nd Aug 2011) or brand new SS1PU units has the updated housing profile, So no need to panic about it. Ok lets talk abit into it. Based on the old SS1PU sample’s dyno reading: I'm very sure using the 15psi actuator and boost controller the red curve represents the exact curve of the 259rwkws you've tuned. So realistically the peak power was reached at roughly 15psi. I'm a bit concert using the high pressure actuator as the peak boost might be too much for a stock engine to handle. Compare to current SS1PU’s dyno reading: Notice I’ve made more power on less boost, This is by the changing of compressor profile that allows compressed air to be “dispatched” faster resulting in lower dispatching temperature. Final results was very consistent as we did about 10 runs and every single run at that boost level was above 280rwkws, while the cooler stayed just little warm. Also the boost level that I'm running on is ok for a stock Rb25det engine. The older sample SS1PU was not as consistent as the first run with cooler cold it made 291rwkws as the discharging temp increases the average power dropped to about 270rwkws after 10 consecutive runs. The cooler was literally hot to rest my hand on. That's real life R&D, I only have a feel that some of the drawnings "might" work out better then others, how ever I can't prodict final results till its been individually evaluated. Any way, DVS, I'm happy to update the comp housing profile for your customer if he can send his housing in for a day.
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will cost $450 to drill, weld and make scramer pipes, including material and tax. Please make sure the gate comes with both flanges. cheers the finish is going to be the same as the one in page 29
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Yes can be done, how ever big external gates are more effective when working with big turbo in small turbine housings. The SS2 and SS1PU versions has welly matched wheel size and housings. It might not make much difference in that setup. I got the TFI filter for $10 inside discounted tray at Autobarn. lol. Its a 4inch filter with 2 set of sleeves. Worked fine, didn't had any restrictions at all.
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Those manifolds seems to work fine. If it can get me a certain percentage of extra power and torque then I won't need to design a huge turbo reaching target goal. Also every thing fitted and lined up fine. I will make this SS3 externally gated through turbine housing.
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I bought that off a guy on ebay for $400. I think its a coated ebay manifold. I've fitted the SS1PU back on it seems to have lost abit of response on partial throttle, how ever does seems to delivery wider torque range on wide open throttle. I might do one comparison run using the SS1PU first, to see the behavior of the power and torque delivery due to this aftermarket exhaust manifold.
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Are the stock BOV and breathers currently plumbed back into that bit from the factory intake pipe? Any way, further updates with the SS-3 unit. This turbo is made for 350rwkws with optimum response. To make this work at its full capacity as possible I’ve replaced my factory exhaust manifold with an aftermarket item. The new manifold held the turbo at factory position, so stock dump and exhaust lined up fine. In car: With the new manifold it feels awesome at full open throttle, how ever it also feels like it have added lag down low. I will do a back to back comparison with the SS1PU after this run.
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I don't know how many times I have to ask people to stop metal sleeving their stock intake pipes, I even machined all my turbo's inlet to 3inch so it won't fit and there you go, some people still find ways around it. You won't make any thing better then 240rwkws regardless how big the turbo you've got on there. Get a proper 3inch metal intake pipe before take it to the dyno. Cost wise you can try Dr.Drift, RE customs, Created motor sports or email Trent when he's in a better mood. Generally you get charged $150/H and to tune it from scratch, takes in average of 4 hours.
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If the AFM is moved to cooler piping the car do needs retune. Try to run a 3inch straight metal pipe with AFM and POD connected to the end of it first. Which should be fine. Also check for any exhaust related restrictions. Once the intake pipe has been replaced, I would try a 2nd opinion on the original dyno that it was tuned on. I remember you had 241rwkws, if the current tune feels lot more aggressive on road then that should be lot more then 3kws difference.
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Status has a hub dyno. There is a 2kws variance between his to a dyno dynamics roller on a 261rkws setup. I'm aware Sarge's car did not perform as expected (not sure if it was on your Mainland dyno). That is more due to the fact he's running a metal sleeved stock rubber intake pipe. I've asked all my customers to run a at least a 3inch hard metal intake pipe, done back to back testing regarding to it result is in page 57 Car gained 65rwkws by going to a 4inch metal pipe. He will be back for further tuning once his intake pipe is sorted. Expecting more results.
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Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
hypergear replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
93 R33 GTST Rb25det with forged pistons (factory compression) and stock every thing else. 550cc injectors Z32 AFM HyperGear ATR43SS-1PU turbocharger with updated compressor profile. 3inch turbo back exhaust Ebay cooler Nistune chipped ecu 3inch metal intake pipe to air box. The most power made was 287rwkws, and average was 280rwkws @ 17psi. Very consistent result with consecutive dyno runs. -
Update: This is an update on few minor changes to the ATR43SS1PU's compressor profile aimed to lower inlet manifold temperature, as the initial release had the habit of cooking coolers. In comparison the updated profile gained in average of 10kws peek, using less boost. The power delivery was lot more consistent in consecutive dyno runs also. The most power made was 287rwkws, and average was 280rwkws @ 17psi.
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SS1xx installation guide with video footage is in page 90. You can use factory water lines, took our mechanic 12 mints to install, so its not that easy to get on but can be done.
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The figures are based on what I've paid for mine allow my test car to arhcieve all those results you are seening today. I'm not bad mouth Nistune, I would run their ECUs in any of their directly supported vehicle models. The comparison is based on the total "value" delivered in the package, You can obviously use other peoples component in the benifits of on your own car, How ever your self does not own that component unless you "buy" it. Finally I only recommend this ECU for R33 GTSTs as I've personally trailed it, it is clearly superior, there for I recommend it and I will look after my customers to own those benefits at their least expenses possible.
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Yes you can
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Update on the adaptronic ECUs: The Retail price on the Plug in R33 ecu is $1500 We can offer $400 discount off the total price if this ecu was purchased with any of our turbochargers, rebuilding or high flow services. Rough price guide based on the value: Using Adaptronic plugin ecu with software and cable: Plug in and play, no headaces. $1100 including discounted. Using Nistune: Donnor Z32 ECU $250, Nistune chip $286, installation $66, Z32 AFM $300, AFM plug $50, software $220. Total: $1172 (not including cable of $95) Using PFC: $1600, Z32 afm and plug $350. Total: $1950 We can also pass on this discount to any customers whom have bought our service or turbochargers in the past.
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Little update: This is a from a scrapped blown Ford XR6 turbo that we've rebuilt from scratch with a ATR45 core. Its fitted back on to a Auto XR6 (edit: NA+T) 4L with 3500 convert. Car made 295.5rwkws on 11psi with Caltex E65. Looking back from where we first started, my dynosheet pile is about the same height as a Nissan skyline engine manual and it will keep on getting thicker. Any way, ATR43G3 is back on the drawing board for the 4th time, I'm hopping of gain better response while not losing the consistency, top end power or peek torque.
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Its actually cheaper making the T67 alike setup as there is not need spending timing in making all those bolton adaptors as well as internal gate setup. Like we only charge $1000 for the internal gated ATR43G3 units.
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The G2 is only a small turbo. Also Its more of the factory exhaust manifold restricting flow so the power figure is well kept around / under 300rwkws mark. Probably not worth investing a turbo that pushes beyond that unless its going to on a high mount ext gated setup, and I'm pretty sure all the current ATR43G3s has no issues making 340rwkws+ on it. I'm considering of going for a high mount manifold with ext gate once there are nothing left to improve using factory setup. How ever that will not reflect the power figure of those without the same setup.
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Great to hear, You car finally made power . The G2 unit is made for about 250rwkws mark the max I managed to get out of it was 267rwkws and that was with plenty of boost. It did turn out to be a tuning related matter which I was suspecting from the very start. The dyno dynamic's hub reading depending on their software, there was only 2kws variance in readings from local roller dyno vs Status hub dyno. I found readings from roller dynos seems to be affected from the quality of tyre used as well as how tight or firm the car was strapped down. Hub dyno gives more accurate comparison in terms of RPM VS Power VS Torque VS Boost. How ever if the true reading on your hubs is 350rwhp then I would probably stick with that. Any way, you can also ways go back for a dyno run on a roller dyno other then hyper-drives to see if power curve and figure varies. Or pump in more boost.
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Great news the Adaptronic ECU. It worked beautifully today, and the car is very smooth to drive. Every thing worked out great, no glitches with their software, pretty easy interface, it worked on both AFM and MAP, but the MAP sensor is lot easier to tune. No head aces at all, Its perfect. The car made 247rwkws at 17psi with the SS1 High flow. Full boost of 19psi by 3400RPM on 9 sec dyno ramp. Its brilliant to drive on road. Regarding to the ECU I'm unable (not allowed) to retail it alone for under the RRP. How ever I can offer a generous amount of discount on total price if its purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow services. I'll announce the discountable amount when ready. Also big thanks to Trent, whom is a great tuner and have offered great customer care for this service. Above tune was done free of cost at his own time following earlier unsuccessful Nistune Z32 ecu attempt. With the GTR high flows, I don't believe they are going to be responsive. They are better for top end. Like I would definitely recommend to use a big Single turbo over the twins.
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The plugin ECU series fits into stock ECU casing. which is more stealth then Z32 ECUs. lol. It cost more for this aftermarket casing, as I'm selling my ECU with nistune chip. It supports Both AFM and MAP so you can keep afm if required. I think no AFM is great as its lot easier to setup the intake pipe, you save money from buying the AFM, and there is one less part could go wrong.
