hypergear

The ATR43SS-1 PU version is installed this morning. I only took it for a test drive based on my old tune. It feels like a huge turbo with babe turbo's response. Its got this really big pull under throttle, I haven't give it much yet, but very new driving experience, will have a interesting result soon. Also you are all welcome to discuss engine changes and torque plus etc in this thread as they would all some sort related to a turbo, I will index them all on the front page making it easier to locate your discussions.

Torque delivery and driving ability is a major concern when designing new turbochargers, you can keep on posting in this thread. I will index it on the front page.

Some very constructive ideas. any way, refer to the GenEses development, The belt supercharger probably won't do as by looking at the dynosheet of SS-2 All I need is some thing makes 2psi+ pre 2500rpms, which should increase down low torque and extend mid range. I'm looking at a 35V electric motor: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1276604 Run that into a 3inches duction fan I think I have a pretty good chance getting that to boost. I'm hopping it doesn't self destruct when turbo is sucking at 24psi, or I will need an additional intake pipe which opens when intake pipe pressure becomes negative. If I can program some sort of relay that activate this device in a short block of 5 secs at certain throttle position and have its battery(s) charged all times then it should be pretty consistent. How ever if I do get 300rwkws with the new prototype with stock response then there might be no need for it. Either way its going to be a interesting hobby turbo to work on in the weekends. Torque and wheel spin, if the torque is a built up in a 45 degrees angle then that will be lot less likely to wheel spin then some thing shoot up in a 75 degrees angle. As the driver I personally would like to feel my car's pulling all the way to red from the second I step into throttle. So far the SS-1, SS-2 and G3 FNT have felt great on road. I did have a customer whom I recently built a FNT G3 for, he's made 265rwkws at 17psi on a super safe tune, even thou it didn't max lots of power but he's got a very linear curve and peaked heaps of linear torque at 4000RPMs, then that torque held very straight towards 7000rpms. I will post up his sheet this weekend, that sort of curve would feel excellent on road and beating V8 with.

Do you mean some thing that’s really good for wheel spin and smoke tyres with? like been able to do easily lose traction and wheel spin through out rev rang?

I cut my factory BOV open and there is just a diaphragm, one spring and one piston. Once the bay pass whole is blocked the diaphragm gets sucked upwards and the piston opens. I sort of got it to work by placing a one way valve into the pipe that connects to the bov to inlet manifold. As for the GenEses, I'm planning to use a high powered electrical motored duction fan working with a turbo. Can be high voltage external batteries based. The Fan only operates till the turbo takes over. Depending on how long the battery pack can last, we can wire 2 or more battery packs and have some thing switching between the battery packs when one is running low. That battery will have a 12V charger charging it when laid off. So a super responsive high efficiency turbo is required as a base for this setup. Above is just a theory thing at early stage there will be lot more in it. Might or might not work and the finished product might be too expansive to sale. But would be good project to give a shot at proven its possible or not possible with what we've got. There are lots of failed earlier examples that I've already known, so no need to post that. But do post constructive ideas and tell every one what you think that might make this work.

Still thinking about it, As soon as throttle opens the intake pressure drops, so pointless of building up pressure pre-throttle unless its lots of pressure. Need some thing spins quickly, makes enough pressure to fill the drop with bit of room for positive boost. Then switch it self off when turbo comes on. That didn't work for me, the stock bov just kept on getting sucked open by vacuum.

That 2 psi is pre-throttle body pressure. So when throttle is given the car launches with 2 psi of boost and build up from there. Still thinking about it, at this stage its 55% looking possible.

Just disconnect and block off the recirculation piping (the hard black metal pipe connects from BOV to factory intake pipe) off your stock BOV start the car and you will get what I mean. You can obviously get it to work with a plumb back hard intake pipe, which the guy's busting to drive it and don't have time for.

You must plumb it back after the AFM thats all. Its got a recirculation hole in it, means it will circulating air regardless if the piston opens or shut. I really hope the prototype works then we will be concentrating in the GenEses development, the principle on that is having a turbo car idle at 1~2 psi based on a 500HP turbo, so people can take off and drive on boost all times. Making "turbo lag" history.

Needed to upgrade the BOV as stock BOV must be plumbed back into the intake pipe after the afm as it has a recirculation port that stops the BOV piston been sucked up when the car is on vacuum. Importance in selection BOV: I've had few China made BOVs that don't work probably including some branded off shelf ones. Some of the springs are too soft, that gets sucked open by vacuum, makes this ciii ciii ciii sound on idel causing engine to hunt, Some of them leaks between the piston and bore, which I call it wrong clearance from manufacturing. A good BOV needs to have just the right amount of spring tension stopping the piston from sucking up, seals perfectly when shut, and release as much surge pressure as possible when pops. If I can't find a good one at the right price then I make it my self. What we did on peter's car is a basic 3inch intake pipe connecting turbo to factory air box. the recirculation pipes needed to be cut short as they are on the way, but can be left bolted at original spot. block off factory BOV and run a BOV in cooler piping. Perferred to have AFM after the BOV but can't do it unless been tuned, any way the idel hunt can be touched up with a tune. Information on BOV and cooler piping fitment is at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=261613&view=findpost&p=5190870 Also had few members inquiring custom turbo building that can perform at 300rwkws level with factory response. I did few drawings and made some modifications on wheel shapes and trim plus the FNT angle to the SS-1: If my drawning works then we should have 270~300rwkws with stock turbo's response and factory driving ability. With every thing bolt on and stock looking of course.

Got a High flowed R33 turbo with a .60 comp housing (3inches intake with 2 inches out let) for $1000 with braided oil line and high pressure actuator. PM if interested. Cheers.

They are all the same. You will need to cut off the rear end of stock actuator then tab in thread on to actuation rod. Once done attach the adjustable extender.

You mean this stuff: Can be done, I got it to hold 9psi without boost controller, but that was it.

That would be from boost controller, I found this boost creep and drop behavior happens to customers with return flow coolers. check hary's result pre and after cooler tests: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__1640__p__5772487#entry5772487

Important: Who ever buys the TR43, make sure to contact us or hyduralic places for a dash 4 size restriction free braided hose. Turbo will fail working with standard RB2x oil feeding lines. This is a old TR43 .58 unit, not a ATR43. This turbo is good for RB20 or a 4cyc engine.

Thanks for the feedback. Comparing the ATR43SS pagethe FNT affects on above dynosheet is identical. Its more then just the few hundred rpms better in response. It changes the car's driving ability making it lot quicker in acceleration from standing and gear change. To Add FNT nozzle into G3 housings cost $200 including return shipping. All ATR43xx and PU high flowed units produced from 1/1/11 has FNT nozzle permanently casted into the turbine housing delivering better driving ability while not affecting top end power.

Well I've referring to RB25 powered Stegeas. We used 1980 cosworth wheels 4 years ago, they worked "alright" did not pull enough power nor mid range. Its not just the size, its the overall layout of the wheel. Our current wheels flows more, makes more power without flat spots, better torque, and within same better response range. Its not about the thing " makes the No.s " its about how the numbers are delivered. Skyline has the majority of market with a very good testing plate form. If the new wheels profile makes more power every where on a rb25 skyline, (I have lots of result to prove that) Then rb25 steaga makes no differences. Stock oil line don’t supply enough oil, and could be clogged with years carbon deposits. Might be the reason for your stock turbo's death. That’s the only reason I want them changed. I don't understand what the argument is. Why should we avoid superior technology today and use stuff 30 years old. I choice modern technology that delivers more and better, I don't expect my customers to live up in the past.

factory run M12 banjo fittings, they are likely to leak on diy. Oil feeding line we sale with our turbos run speed flow fittings: a flared fitting in a 90 degrees hose tail, you gota install it before putting the turbo on to manifold. that won't leak unless incorrect size washers, its a better technology in hydraulic hosing. How ever if that causes issues in the stegeas then I will go back to benjos. Turbo design Vs stock turbo obviously not as responsive (can be with the SS-1) as it is bigger, but no flat spots, pulls all the way to red, very good to drive. Also extremely important to run 3inch metal intake pipes with pod filter. Turbo won't perform and will run wired on dyno with stock rubber pipe, as it will suck it self partially or fully shut under load.

They are 1980s. we only put in 2010 stuff. Not exactly a 3076 core, more of custom core made to pump more, That’s for skylines. stegea is all different and more work.

On idle， the BB setup is obviously quicker with PJB where the opposing surge pressure is not present and oil pressure is low. Notice how the BB ATR43 Alfa units behaved off the car and on idle. How ever once the comp wheel takes on opposing surge pressure then it requires greater forward spinning energy from turbine wheel. So based on the same turbo and setup I believe the shaft speed from 1 psi and above should be very identical. Shaft speed on idle varies depending on the size of the turbo and idle rpm. Some of the large turbos don't even spin on idle. Generally cases looking at 50~200 RPMs or more depending on variances.

Yes I'm getting both car tuned shortly, will post result when ready. Regarding to powered up SS-1, I've made few drawings on different shaped comp and turbine wheels which I will cut them out on a CNC machine for trails runs. I think getting 300rwkws with stock response on factory setup and 98 fuel is looking very possible. SargeRX8: The SS-2 is at its best with 18~20psi, but depending on what you and your tuner are comfortable with. Stronger actuator will improve turbo's response and on road driving ability as it doesn't "starting to open" so early. Looking forward to see more power.

looks good but how ever I think those 2x runs are not based on the same dyno sittings, the GTX appears to have more ramp load then the GT run unless some thing with the car or the tune was not 100%. By going larger sized comp wheel without any modifications to the turbine wheel or housing is not going to end up with that much better in response, its suppose to be opposite as larger blades fights against greater amount of surge per rotation. Plus it would not shift the areas of whe the car is on vacuum. But any thing can happen with E85, does it feels that much of differences on the road?

With the 040's there is a metal filter on the bottom they normally "can't suck in fuel" when that blocks and generates a very loud high pitch buzzz sound. the pump would work as normal If you clean the filter and fuel tank . Or get rid of the filter.

Update 30/06/11: Finally got my test car's back together assembled, still got a small oil leak from the crank seal which will be changed. Took for a drive it’s going very strong. Currently got a KAI OP6 high flow on it will be getting that tuned for a proper reading once run in is complete. This is from the member whom bought my SS-2 prototype. It made 240rwkws at 11psi on a low pressure actuator. Pretty good power for the boost? Car's had some miss firing issues to sort so that’s all it can do with out triggering the issue. For a bit of fun side of turbo building this is a customized ATR43SS-1 made for an external gate setup with a 4 inches inlet and 2 inches out let. It runs 3inche Vband adaptor in the back: with a trumpet outlet: Happy with our welding work ?

ok. any way, to OP yes we can build you actuators with 2x springs that holds around 18psi depending on the housing, intake and exhaust setup. Or modify your turbine housing to hold what ever boost you want it to hold.