hypergear

^^^^ Does this thing actually work? How much boost can this hold? I've seen turbos sent in with those setup and I swapped them all with high pressure actautors.

When comparing dynosheets, assume the car's got the same modes you need to make sure the dynos are running the same amount of ramp timing and configuration data. Dyno shoot outs with long ramp timing would appear really responsive with power, torque and boost shifted to the left, while runs based on lower timing would have every thing spread out to the right. Ie: Blue is 12 sec ramp, and Green is 9 sec ramp. 9 Sec is very close to a single driver on flate road, while 12 sec or above is more like going up hills. So If I run a 3540 with 17 sec ramp vs a 3076 with 9 sec ramp then the result in response would comes up really close making you think the 3540 is more responsive and makes more power. The readings out of the dyno sheet sections are mixed bunch of 9 sec, 12 sec and god knows what. So identical setups have different readings between dynos and tuners. When we our evaluation and tests, all Ramp timings are based at 9 secs unless stated other wise.

I can make them run what ever psi its required for the application. I was under the impression that you are using it for 250rwkws application so the original high pressure actuator was made and adjusted to suit. If you can make no boost with actuator adjusted to certain degree means the waste gate setup is perfectly working. At 6mm pre-load means you've already pulled out half of the actuation length then the 14psi creep then drops to 7psi is predictable. Ultimately it defeat the purpose of building this turbo, I'm looking forward to see you running high pressure actuator with supporting mods making that 250rwkws that you originally ask for. I’ll be happy to supply you with tunning maps if required.

The turbo was originally fitted with a high pressure actuator made to hold 18psi. Been told its too strong so I sent him a low pressure actuator. I have no idea how that was fitted as well as the rest of the bits. The actuator only pushes about 60 degrees out of a 33mm disc covering a 30mm gate which's not enough for it to hit the backing housing and if it does jam open then we should see very low boost. When I sent the low pressure actuator I don't have the turbo on front of me and I don't how long the rod needs to be but longer is always better then shorter, so if its too long then just cut and thread it down to size, and 6mms of preload is way too much, should be 3mm. I don’t get how it can run 14psi then goes back to 7psi. I have a feeling some of the vacuum plumbing is a bit strange or it is too much actuator preload. I'm guiding a novice DIYer and its pretty hard work. The car's needs injectors and a tunned for 18psi. Its not going to make much more power with stock tune and factory boost. And have to say its doing pretty good keeping up with a RB26dett stegea.

I've seen people over fill engine oils that cause engines to smoke. check oil level?

Send Matt (nistune owner) your ECU and get him to install the chip. I can give you my Nistune file suitting 550cc injectors. Load that up and it should start and drive as if its been tuned assume you have the same injectors and Z32 AFM. You can drive that to your tunner and do a quick check up making sure its not pinning or doing any thing strange.

Suppose to have a loud suction noise, that’s affects from FNT turbine setup as the shaft spins at faster rate compare to generic turbine based on same RPM scale. I've sent you an additional low pressure actuator. Swap the high pressure actuator over and it should sit the boost to around 10psi. But recommended to keep the high pressure actuator if the car's going to be tuned with supporting mods. High pressure actuator will also pickup better response.

We used to. Since every one are looking for a big mark up in boost and power with high flows, Components that are working with limited sized housings will have to stand greater amount heat and pressure. There are constraints in Garrett parts, I consider they are best working with their own housings. We are making our own bits and pieces since early 10 that I considered them been more “beefed up”. We've also engineered couple of customized wheels for better flow in restrictive housings. You can see how ours high flows and custom turbos making more and more No.s with better response and driving ability as our development progress. and yes, we normally generic T3 water cooled bearing housings for high flowing, they are very similar in size and position to stock R33 bearing housings. Lot easier to fit water lines with.

lol I killed them in one dyno run. Stock once actually lasted abit longer. Been using split fires for many ridiculously high boost runs and they've never failed.

Just get "Motul Turbo light". I'm using this for all of my cars. worked great. once turbo installed, start and let the car to idle for 2 mints, then go for a drive, I don't mind if you drive it hard (harder the better), you will find it slightly less responsive for the first 1KMs then that small drag goes away (from thick oil used to stabilize shaft and bearings on assembly). Also if you have oil residual from previous turbo you might want to let it burn off or clean it if necessary.

Refer to dynosheet earlier the peak power of 265rwkws at 6500RPM was at 18psi. Assume I can hold 18psi across all rev ranges I should still get around the 265rwkws mark. How ever I won't be able to run 24psi at mid range using this motor so should end up with similar peak power with slight less mid range.

High exhaust tem can burn turbine wheels tips which are only 20thou thick. I've had few of those too. the bearings are cooled by oil and water so the bearing housing it self is not affected unless coolant is not present. So did you connect water to the turbo? If oil drain is blocked or having issues drain oil, the turbo would leak oil out of both ends, how ever that doesn't stops the turbo from spinning, might seiz after a long period of time.

The XR6 turbo gets contaminates filled up in both filter and the pin. I did have few later model turbos in as well, XR6 turbo repair and high flow jobs are growing substantially this year (Some are due to lack of servicing or bad oil). Also happened to few other GT turbos sent in for repair. Have a close look at the relocation pin (oil feeding pin), it acts like a collection depo for oil contaminates.

There are 2x 20 thou oil feeding pins inside the oil feeding port. when that gets blocked up oil can not pass through, which happened to pretty much all the XF6 turbos we are rebuilding. Its more less of a design related issue which designers assumed all engine oil is 100% clean, How ever we do have engine filings, carbon deposits and etc that are circulating with the oil. Those oil contaminates comes to rest and collected by the turbo.

If you run 2871R in original .64 rear housing it should perform ok. But if you install it into a T3x .63 or .82 housing it still works but won't perform as well. .86 T2x rear housing will add lag, but not so much in power or torque. the HKS 253x housings are T3x housings with T2x flow tunnels made for an easier Bolton option.

Just had mine installed, instructions are at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__view__findpost__p__5876311 Please make sure the rubber hose used for drain pipe does not kink or bend under heat, if you can't get that nice bend then you can cut up the stock drain pipe and join it up to the drain adaptor. intake pipe for the SS-1 you can make it with 2x 45 degrees silicon hose with a bit of straight steel pipe like that: http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43g2/airbox.JPG http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43g2/turbo.JPG http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43g2/airboxon.JPG http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43g2/airboxonright.JPG You can post up in my thread or PM me if additional information is required.

This is the DIY guide for people who’s installing a SS-1 with stock comp housing. Its harder to install compare to a High flow or other ATR43 series, but nothing special. It was done at friend's workshop whom is an experienced and licensed mechanic. We started at 9PM and finished at 12.20AM. This turbo comes with: 1x Braided oil feeding line with 2x fittings, and oil drain adaptor. You need to get: 4x M18 fat brass washers 2mms thick each. 1x M10 brass Washer 1mm thick 1x M12 brass washer 1mm thick 1x 20mm hard oil resistant hose in 30cms long 1x oil drain adaptor gasket or gasket paper cut in shape If you are using the SS-1's original comp housing that has 3in inlet and 2 inches out lets you will need to make a hard intake pipe and a 2 to 2.5 inches silicon hose. Please refer to post: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5871912 This is what it looks like with factory turbo removed: factory oil lines and fittings must be removed: M12x1.25 Speed flow fitting supplied goes onto the block with the 12mm brass washer, the bracket holding chassis side water line must be released: Connect the straight hose tail of the braided oil feeding line supplied to the engine block oil fitting. Here comes the hard bit: Fitting factory water lines. The trick is to screw in the factory M18x1.5 banjo bolt into the engine side water fitting port of the turbo without securing it on to the exhaust manifold. Fit the turbo onto the manifold studs with the water line attached. Loosely secure the turbo with about 10mms of play on the manifold. Connect the chassis side water fitting by forcing the metal line 10mms downwards and 10mms forward toward. You must get a perpendicular angle for the fittings to go in. This is probably the hardest part. Once the fittings goes in, check to make sure it clears the drain port area, secure the turbo to manifolds studs, and secure water lines. It took 12 mints for my mechanic to secure both lines, uncut footage is at: http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43ss/installation/diy/fittingwaterlines.wmv Once water lines are secured, connect oil feeding line to the turbo (10mm brass washer is required in between the adaptor and turbo). This is generic aftermarket drain pipe: Fit the hard oil resistant hose on and extremely important make sure it does not bend or kink. Or you can modify factory hard drain pipe to suit like what I did: Connect dump pipe and install stock heat shield. Connect all pipings, start the car and check/repair any leak, and job is now complete. Driving on 7psi with the new turbo running stock ECU, the car pulls lot hard under throttle (1/4, 1/2 or full). I'm currently waiting for a set of 740cc injectors to come in from US. Will have it tuned shortly. Yes I'm waiting to get my other R33 back on road. Currently doing another engine rebuild due to previous mechanic's fk up. But FNT turbine have worked pretty well. Check previous reply regarding to FNT.

My apologies I miss referred your reply. I think that’s the reasons of why they made later versions out of plastic. So the materials are unlikely to do too much damage to the motor once sucked in.

That turbo is very specifically engineered with lot of parts beefed up and custom made. Turbo won't let go unless engine goes. Generally you would run 18psi of stock engine making around 250~260ish. But the response is there. You can call it T3x based CHRA working with none standard .64 rear housing. Back on the topic, if you are going to use a 2871 you might want to modify your stock setup to suit its original .64 rear housing for the best result.

If you run standard T2x turbine in generic T3x flow tunnel it won't perform. But if you turn it other way around it works out ok. How ever turbine housing must be specifically made and modified to suit. If every thing is engineered correctly you can get 2530's response with 3071's torque and power (Ie. SS-1 combination): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55845&view=findpost&p=5715683

I think the design of those comp wheels are not really perfect for response. The blades are too tall and too straight, means there will be lot more surface area catching greater amount of counter forced under boost, requires more turbine flow to turn, result in lag. But possibly more flow per rotation resulting more power with less boost. There is nothing wrong with the GT turbine wheels, and it is possible to generate more power and better response using more appropriate comp wheel design. Having said that the GTX turbos are not specifically built for small nissan engines, they could be performing perfectly fine on some thing like a XR6 turbo.

If any parts of that thing fails you might been boosting sky high without even knowing it. I would just use a good manual controller or a trusted brand EBC.

Well isn't "today's" turbo engineering is trying to get away from the tire frying behavior and concentrating on displacement? Power curve with sudden increase in power and torque are more likely to fry tires, while consistent increases are more likely to stick the car on road. Car that do stick on road during acceleration is lot faster then car that loses traction.

PMs replied. Cheers. Since the illustration car is going to be a daily driver I would prefer every thing to have the factory appearance. I remember mentioning the SS-1 high flows couple of pages back and here it is: This is the machined and modified comp housing, as mentioned earlier the stock surge slot has been taken care of: (can you notice how that was removed?) Before I have all the bits for tuning, I would like to stick with stock actuator. I've modified it and made it adjustable (to certain extent only). Turbo is on the manifold: Actuator is adjusted and fitted: And Factory turbo outlet is installed. I've arranged a mobile mechanic to install it tomorrow afternoon. Will post more photos as he work through.

Continuing with the SS-1 Installation. I've got all the parts for the SS-1 machined and made today. Took 7 hours labor to have all the bits machined, welded and touched to spec. For some people the outer appearance might be considered "rough", from engineering point of view I think its a work of art. All pressures are carried out suiting their building purpose. SS-1's CHRA is in: I'm sitting it up on a dummy manifold first to ensure the comp housing clears: Comp housing is now fitted with actuator angle adjusted Fitting on the stock dump pipe: The L pipe that goes from the out let of the turbo to factory cooler piping is a 90 degrees 2 to 2.5 inch reducer, I would prefer if you can get the long leg reducers. Mine is a short leg which needes a small piece of 2.5inch metal extender. I would like to run a 4inch metal intake pipe, To fit that on to the 3inch inlet you can either run a 45 degrees 3 to 4 inch reducer or install a hard rubber sleeve. My intake pipe is made out from a 45 degrees 4inches hose, with a 40cm long 4inches metal pipe and a $10 pod filter from Auto baron.