hypergear

Never tried doing FNT on Garrett units. That should make a massive down low differences without changing top end or any of your original setup. else run .63 rear with a big 50mm gate which should also increase response without dropping much top end and torque.

Stock water lines for R33/R34 Rb25det skyline is in M18x1.5. I remember the M35 stagea has a totally different turbo to skylines, I think this one is no difference, sorta make sense that nothing fits. Stagea owners might want to make a note. I wasn't aware its going to a stagea. If you still like to use the SS-1 turbocharger, send it back with your stock turbo, I can modify it to have the exact fitting position as well as fittings to your factory unit at no additional cost. Or I'm sure skyline owners would be happy to purchase it from you.

might be out of your area, check Osaka imports. They are pretty decent people and carries most of the stuff you need.

You find the water lines are about 5mms behind. The chassis side is pretty easy to reach, For the long one comming behind the engine, There are 2x brackets holding it on to the head, you see it if you trace it back, once they've been released that line would move pretty freely. and that will fit. Add: Took few photos of the high flowed M35 Stega turbos. They are off a smaller combination then the usual 21U and OP6 units for better on road response working with factory Auto. This mainly applies to the SS-1 units as they bearing housing setup is very different. High flowed units using generic T3 bearing housings are lot easier to fit factory water lines with. But either there are no issues using factory water lines.

Those are braided hose half meter long with straight hose tail on one end and a 90 degrees hose tail on the other. You can generally buy from any hyduralic hose places. The engine fitting is M12x1.25 and the turbo fitting depending on the thread that the builder has drill. We use ATR28G1 CHRAs which is equivalent to a 2860RS-5. Need different bearings, different sized shafts and etc, probably cost more to fit them all into factory bearing housing. New lines are required fitting them back into the car.

At moment not. Only done 2 sets this year with stock actuators and the owners all seemed to be the install and drive it type. I've been told they feels nice but not sure how much power they are making with all the stock gears. No one has made any complaints. In theory both of those should be maxing towards 500HP as a simultaneous twin. I'm building ATR43SS-1 for the DIY project will have it finished with some photos soon.

with the exhaust if its got a stock cat you would likely to have a 2.5 flange on the ends of the pipes, Please make sure all exhaust plumbing are in 3 inches. Mine held boost pretty well, I didn't had issues. I don't know much about th EBCs, I think manual boost controller worked best. As for the BOV please check this page: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=261613&view=findpost&p=5190870 thats how its setup on mine

Thanks for the feed back on the SS-2. Please run a BOV (just in case you are not) and reduce the “surge dose” to minimum as it could damage the comp wheel and shaft on high boost. While tuning please make sure it has at least 3inch hard intake pipe with pod, unrestrictive cooler and exhaust. I've posted the timing and fuel map of it on my car in page 75. Please print those and take them to your tuner as reference. Should be able to replicate my result with those data.

I really wish he did. unfortunately he did not get back to me ever since. He also stuffed my 300ZX during a turbo change last year for the ATR25 development that coasted me $6G to get it back to working order, he tried to make up for it back then. How ever he did do few good less complex jobs as most people I referred him on turbo changes are satisfied with his work. I believe there are two types of business/trades people: 1. People whom are using his/her skills doing their best to benefit the broad society. 2. People whom are using his/her skills doing what they could to benefit him/her self. As the manager I feel I must have the knowledge and responsibility to ensure our customers receive the full benefit of our produces, be responsible and supportive to customer's needs regardless if the deal resulted in profit or lose. Same rule applies to my engineering team, and my tuners. Every job must be done properly to suit its purposes. people whom are irresponsibility for their work / products cares only for their own benefits are not the type of people that we want to deal or work with. Graph is on the dynosheet section: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5847954 I believe Toshi have done great jobs and well proven by his results. Personally I would still prefer to get my tune done on a dyno by an experienced tuner. I have meet a ford engineer, been told that all XR6 / 8 ECUs are individually adjusted to suit specific engines as data sent from individual sensors varies.

hahaha they are actually all alright. Noting was abnormal with any of the pistons or con-rods. The one with the pin slided out has 2x tinny hair cracks undernees from the pin movement, and that was about it. I replaced 1x pistons and all rings, with conrods and crank machined and checked. So it was all good. Should have it back on road in about 2 weeks if every thing goes smoothly. Be comming back for more tunning.

I don't know. its supplied by member: FOOLBOOST ask him

Please ring 0421361472 and as him to message you photos. Cheers.

thats the cooper washers. I normally run 2mm fat washers then the factory 1mm thin washers. Which don't usually leak. Or you can apply very very very thin layer of silicon glue (last option) on both side of the washers, that also stops leaking.

I've just bought a clean stock R33 to show you the DIY. Assume engine setup are identical you should be able to fit it your self with out additional parts flowing my steps. It starts from: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__view__findpost__p__5862570

few updates with the engine: Have got the short motor professionally assembled by Reflex engineering. Had the damaged bore sleeved, with conrods and crank machined to exact clearance. So much differences in terms of professionalism and work quality compare to my "mechanic mate" whom just slapped every thing together with machined block. I've given the short engine to AMR work shop whom rebuild my forged SR20det S14 and CA18det Sil180 back in 2008 with plenty of success in researching ATR28 series. Also I've been question by one customer about DIY installation of the ATR43SS-1. The SS-1's is harder to install with factory water lines due to limited working space. I had mine fitted by a licensed workshop with every thing done when I picked it up so I did not have photos interms of how it was carried out. As far as I'm aware, the out side line fits on pretty easily, there are 2 small brackets holding the engine side oil feeding line to the head, they must be removed allowing that extra bit of float for it to reach the feeding port. That water line connects to a bit of rubber pipe behind the inlet manifold. I've promised to shown DIY work out for the SS-1 so here it is, I've purchased A clean close to stock R33 Spec 2 With all factory gear including factory heat shield and dump pipe. I will be aiming for a good responsive 250 streetable rwkws using the SS-1 with fully factory appearace (heat shield and etc goes back on), I will post photos and instructions along as the modifications progresses. (By the way, stock turbo suck, simply out of puff at 4000rpm, Its so slow compare to my guinea pig R33)

Its not hard to install, Just depending on how experienced the installer is. The SS-1 is harder to install due to limited working area, need smaller tools. All High flows and other ATR43 models are lot easier to fit. I should have taken more detailed photos of factory water lines before our mechanic fitted them on. I will buy another stock R33 next week and guide you through the installation.

The most response we can get out of Standard T3x turbine housing with T3x based wheel is: (Generally with GT30x turbos) Compare to a T3x based wheel but built into the SS customized turbine tunnel: Exact same top end, SS1 with customized turbine tunnel is 700RPMs more responsive. Standard T3x turbine tunnel is very smooth on road but I want some thing more dynamic. So we've trailed few housings. This year we've tested the idea of FNT turbine, which worked outstandingly combine it with the most "responsive" housing supports the relevant power range and we ended up with the SS-1. Here are some photos of the rear housing taken during manufacturing: finished housing: Its not a very nice looking finish. But best for the job. Installation: The water lines are abit hard to fit, The chassis side fits on pretty easily, the turbo to engine side is not, There are 2x bracket holding the line to on the head, and its connected to a rubber hose from the inlet manifold side. Once the brackets are loosen the hard water hose "floats" and thats how I managed to fit that on to the bearing housing. The bolt behind the buttom right was hard to tight, needs a 13mm nut with a small spanner. The oil drain adaptor just connects to a hose which goes to the drain port. It is harder to install compare to ATR43 normal versions, but wasn't some thing really special thou.

Might want to say some thing: The SS-1 is a complex turbo to build, To get most response and most power with the least RPMs possible it runs ported T2x flow tunnel, FNT turbine nozzles, T3 turbine inlet with a Nissan 6 bolt outlet. This make the highest power out put within the most usable rpm range equivalent in response to a HKS2530 while maxing out similar power and torque as a 3071. The turbine housing do require welding and plenty of other fabrications to archive the desired ending result so its not nice looking at this stage, and I believe Ebay turbos do infact "look better". I've personally installed this turbo on my own R33 twice and had a mechanic installed it in to a R34 GTST (Harey) I've posted photos of installation as well as photo of the actual turbo in my thread for every one to look up unless Stagea's setup is slightly different. Technical installation instruction based on GTST is on our thread using factory water lines, oil feeding and drain pipe adaptor supplied. But either way happy to assist with installation and instructions.

This is a 21U turbine housing. From R33 not OP6. For the best shape graph I would perfer boost to peak 20psi at 3500rpms then allow it to drop to 17psi at 7000RPMs with a high pressure actautor. that would give the most mid range.

The Shape and figures looks very like 9 sec ramp in comparison to the others did at status. I think you can tune the dip out of 95~115KM/H, Its just like mine with G2, which was just 1 degrees variance in timing.

FNT

Posting a little update: This is a member with the updated Turbine wheel profile for the 21U high flow (stock R33 turbo). It made of 260rwkws on 15psi of boost. This looks like on factory actuator. Notice how much the torque curve have improved. Its holding lot better to red line. pretty happy with this ending result.

I got my rings from CJ motors. they are $35 a pack (for one piston).

Plastic wheel explodes under high pressure (should say high shaft speed), but both of their turbine side explodes under high pressure and heat either way. Steel wheel would be still be a better pick.

Update 27/05/11: Rid (seller) have changed his mind and now wants $200 for the front or rear bar and $100 for pair of side skirts.