hypergear

In regarding to GTR turbos we can currently high flow them to 350HP using factory housings, Response felt like the N1 turbos on road. I haven't had any one supplying dyno sheets on those yet. I'm happy to offer a 30% discount on those GTR high flows for some one whom can supply a dyno result at their peek capacity. Has to be in Melbourne. Been doing abit of thinking also, If we are going to engineer a turbo for GTR it would be a large single turbo with twin entry turbine housing engineered to bolton to factory manifolds and customized twin dump pattern for stock dump pipes. I will need to get a car to engineer that. probably be starting in the 2nd half of the year. Also the SS profile its some thing engineered for RB20dets, they run ATR28G1 or G2 chra with .60 comp and .64 rear similar to the 2530s. I'm currently doing some drawings for an external gate plumb back setup, will have some photos shortly.

Its going to be few weeks away as I'll need to engineer a good jig to ensure every turbine housing comes out are exactly the same. I will test out the prototype to see what its like on road and dyno before passing it onto any customers. Also how many percent of yous are running E85? The Servo near by have stocked this type of fuel. But if the majority is still on 98 then data from E85 would be pointless.

I heard from one of my engineering college whom said the material used in Toyota's engine components are denser which made them super strong. Probably related to the "Pan cake" ratio of the material when it was made. But I haven’t had this confirmed.

Steam valve seal only leaks on cold. I think its a turbo related issue. check shaft play, oil drain, breathers, and make sure engine is not over filled with oil.

Sorry I'll be back on the 9th. As Objectives for 2011: Object 1: We'll be updating ATR43's internal wastegate system to external gate pump back setup. Which will have an 50mm external gate attached to turbine housing with the screamer pipe run parallel to the dump pipe. every thing will be perfectly engineered, users have to spend $50 to have the end of scream pipe welded into the dump or it can be left it externally bleeded for off road applications. This should improve current boost control stability while keeping EGT slightly lower. I will try and manage to get that update done without having to increase the current price. Objective 2: We will be concentrating into further development of our SuperStreet series. Which is a reliable and responsive small turbo for around 250rwkws applications. Objective 3: We will be exploring the possibility with cam gears. If there is a clear advantage of having, it will be supplied with all ATR43 turbos at a very low cost with cam angles pre-adjusted. Objective 4 (bonus objective): You all know about the VNT housings. We will be using this foot print developing FNT (Fixed Nozzle Turbine housing) which has fixed blow direction nozzles in optimum angle. Objective 5 (bonus objective): The "Gen E ses" electrical and exhaust gas powered turbocharger system. Which uses a powerful electrical motor to spin a large CHRA assembly to certain RPMS. If I can get this idea to work we can possibly having 20psi of boost pre-2000RPMs in a 600HP turbo setup. If any of yous whom has any experiences, advise or suggestions on any of above objectives do feel free to share. We will be posting data and information as we run along. Any one who needs to get their turbo high flowed do feel free to send them in, I will be straight on to those when I get back. All the best for 2011!

Test difference in pressure drop before and after the cooler with boost controller engaged. If no pressure difference present, means exhaust manifold pressure have forced its way out of the wastegate. You can get either a larger turbine housing, more cropped turbine wheel, or a stronger actuator. The only actuator that seemed to work with boost controller for 25psi and hold 25psi applicaion is those large can ones or build your own with 2x springs inside the actautor hat.

AFM maxing out. too much boost for standard setup

Just get them from Supercheap auto. But get them in stainless steel.

What sort of T2x housing is it? got a photo? I might be able to get you a genuine Garrett housing or modify yours with a T3x flange.

Few things that I'm aware of when moding my test car. Hope those information helps: known issues: -Engine running 85-90 deg C, gets warmer after power runs leading to loss of power, Cooling system marginal. (aftermarket radiator?) Check for rust. Some cases the radiator has a build up of rust that affects cooling efficiency, flush it out of that is the case. Also RB25det runs of a clutch fan. When the clutch wears this issues also happens. -Crank angle sensor, RPM signal noisy, unstable after 5500rpm (no idea about CAS) Sounds like the bearing in inside of it. -Problems with Idle Air Control vavle and idle stability. Some hunting after startup especially when cold, Fuel mixtures and timing all ok. (IAC clean will fix this?) There's a small motor open and shuts the valve, normally a few spray of WD40 would fix it. Else get a new valve. -Car randomly drops down to 5 cylinders (2 occassions, after 30 seconds it fired back up) ( taking a guess, is it the ignition module or the CAS? or both?) Could be Coil pack miss-fire, spark plug flooded, faulty injectors, or coil ignition unit. if the car runs like a crap then I wouldn't drive it. normally tunners would retard of timing and make it rich. So fix every thing up get it fully tuned before driving it around. Also did you end up making a 4 inch metal intake pipe with a free flow exhaust?

More timing + Most boost = more power. Generally you would want to set more timing as possible with out "knock" also within the range which the engine is capable of handling. With ATR43G3 model you might want to ask your tuner to advance more timing around the 4000RPMs mark which would give you stronger mid rang, the .70 58 Trim version made 30kws difference. Also it looks like your tuner has deliberately tuned your car just under 300rwkws. So depending on how comfortable he is with your engine you can run those waste gate studs to creep more boost up top.

I think there is a way of fixing it by running 2x actuators without the gate controller. means 2x actuators gets connected to 1x extension rod. I'm pretty sure that would work, just need to engineer the bracket that fits the turbo and into the engine bay. Or run external gate plumbed back, I will design a housing for that to suit ATR43 series when I get back. In this case you can possible run a 50mm external gate with a .63 rear housing with G3 CHRA that should make 300rwkws+ with out much knock while gain lot better response.

Sorry missed your post earlier. Would you (or any one) know any advantages that should be mentioned in having those anti surge slots in this specific setup?

nope. a small T3x frame turbo. T25 won't fit

There is a rubber diaphragm in side those actuators. If the diaphragm leaks then it will not/hard to open by vacuum pressure. See if you can blow air through that actuator. If so it means its not good.

This understanding is very wrong. Air been pumped out of the compressor wheel is compressed. The air been sucked in is not. Small intake pipe and restrictive air filter system will limit the amount of air that can be sucked in. That makes the comp pressor wheel harder to turn: The most noticeable causes from that would be lose in power, boost level and response. On the hot side, slower shaft speed chocks the engine up on top, since the turbine wheel can not spin fast enough the blades of the turbine wheel becomes a major exhaust restriction. That increases EGT, causing detonations. On a simple term, you can suck in a lung full of air lot easier and faster through a bigger strew. This has been tested back n forward 3 times with back to back dynosheet in our thread. I've deliberately machined the inlet of the comp housing into 4inch so people have to to get rid some of the OEM parts that is not suitable for high performance applications. In term of fittment. The turbo with oil line supplied will bolton to stock every thing, How ever It needs an 2.5 inch 90 degrees elbow and a metal induction pipe to complete. We can supply those bits to complete the installation. Details instructions with photos are also on our thread.

Its just a 45 degrees silicon bend hose and a 4inch 20cm long metal pipe with bov return and a pod filter. I'm current overseas, Go to this place called Motul Weld at point cook, they can make this pipe for you cheaply.

By pod straight of the turbo I meant: Relocate AFM to cooler piping, Relocate BOV to cooler piping Have a 4inch metal front pipe with pod straight off the turbo. I would recommend a 4inch intake pipe for the ATR43G3. The Rev210 mods doesn't work, Don't try it. I've done back to back dyno test with it, detailed results are in my highflowing thread.

You normally hear a a spool down noise but a zz zz zz or abnormal high pitch sound would mean the bearing in it is on its way out. Also check the turbine wheel. Pretty much all GTxxBB high flowed RB25 turbos I've had for service / turbine housing upgrade had burnt turbine wheels.

Looks like 3rd gear maybe? Make sure you clean up the inside of the manifold before using it, had seen people with ebay or back yeard manifolds fallen to bits that chipped the turbine wheel. With the current turb you will need a .70 com housing with a 58 trim comp wheel to get upto 350rwkws at about 28psi on ron 98, which I can get that modified pretty cheaply. You will find slightly cooler EGT with bigger manifolds and external gate for about 1~2 degrees of extra timing.

remember to recondition your engine head with stronger valve springs. Very important for high powered Rb25det.

There are 2x types of return flow coolers. One has massive end tanks with the core sitting vertically while the other type has 2x small end tanks one side and 1x large end tank on another with the core sitting horizontally. I would recommend the 2nd type which is 2x smaller coolers joint together giving greater overall length. In theory is more efficient in heat lose.

Apparently all you need is to burn a 15 thou opening in the center of the injection ports, which sort of turns them to 800ccs. The spray pattern would be pretty horrible I guess.

For a GT3071R CHRA your perferred housing combinations would be a .63 rear with .60 comp (T04E type, none surge sloted). If you are not using original Garrett turbine housing, then make sure you ask them to touch up the blow angle (end of the snail) in the generic turbine housings.

need to press the bearing sleeve out of the BB shafts without bending the shaft. Sand blast out all the carbon the turbine wheel. bath all the bits, balance the shaft with new comp wheel and shaft nut. put every thing back together the was it was and its ready to go. Not an easy job.