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hypergear

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Everything posted by hypergear

  1. Well if pistons and head gaskets have dropped the engine compression then you will need more boost to make the same amount of power. Make sure you have a 3inch metal intake pipe and a free flow exhaust. Try a run with dropped exhaust, high power gain means restrictive exhaust. Also highly recommend a high pressure actuator if you are running a stock actuator. This turbo is capable of doing around 260rwkws.
  2. Just Nistune ECU with 800cc injectors. It was noisy and rough, had broken ring lands on 3 pistons and chewed out valves due to float. Should really run forgied pistions and stronger valve springs to do any thing like that. and its 431rwHP instead of 428 lol.
  3. Mine made 428HP on stock motor with 98 fuel and full boost by 4300RPMs: Except the motor didn't last too long.
  4. Job is complete. Will be CODed back to you in the morning.
  5. Ok little update: This is our very first 5 axis machined comp wheel. It is based on the older 56T 71mm casted model. The material we've machined out of an block billet alloy (pan caked). Which we can remove more materials of the hub leaving greater suction area, and run longer blades. Since more materials are removed the wheel is noticeably lighter in weight, longer blades with additional suction area would result in greater induction volume based on the same shaft speed. I'll be expecting a very slightly increase as in boost response as in terms of when it starts to spool, and incensement in top/mid range power. I will be testing this with our current ceramic ball bearing CHRA assembly once my engine head is reconditioned. I'm looking forward to see any difference in comparison to current results.
  6. For the lash setup there isn't much of choice, I only found Tomei Type A, B and Supertech. It appears the supertech ones are 15LBs stronger then the Tomei Type B spring kit. I will be using those. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Supertech-Valve-Spr...=item3a52093c3b Hanalado: The cat won't appears as melted like butter. a good performance cat has very big cells. Ie. 120 cells in a 4inch barrel. Also been a .63 rear housing the amount of lag you've got is greater then people using a .82 rear housing. I would suspect leaks on the intake side which including unsecured spark plugs, BOV, head, plus all clamps and hoses.
  7. Well I don't want any thing that could alter the performance of a stock RB25det. So it will still be a stock head with stronger valve springs.
  8. Check valves. Same happened to my car. Engine felt very strong with crisp throlle response after rebuild. That slowly went away and felt worse after each dyno run. Been told by engine builder this is due to unsealed valves, mine were all under 40%.
  9. Couple of thing that is extremely important. 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can supply 2x simple steel plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs.
  10. That is very strange. what sort of intake and exhaust setup are you running? would you have the boost curve? was this a .63 or a .82 rear? a photo of it would be great. Also what sort of fuel are you running?
  11. Check the oil drain to make sure its not blocked, and nothing is leaking oil onto the housing it self. If it isn't then I would pull it off and have it check out. BB turbos can only be cheaply rebuild before wheel contacts.
  12. Seals are just stainless steel C clips. When a BB unit blows smoke it means its 90% had a rub on the housings and needs a new core.
  13. That would increase exhaust manifold pressure before turbo, but pressure would drop as soon as air travell through that valve. In theory it makes not affects. unless if the valve is directing combusted air to an more favorable spot of the turbine wheel which spinning it faster. But lots of the pressure / flow engineering stuff makes no sense. Would be interested to see if any one could do a controlled run on a RB25det in Australia.
  14. Thanks for the feedbacks Trent: Thanks for the job. That customer like to have power but concernt about his transmission. Yesterday he decided to go with the powered up profile so he won't need to upsize the turbo when he's hardware are ready to take further, So probably keep it just under 270rwkws for now. Turbo's just finished today, it will make some serious power without much boost. Have fun power digging
  15. Parts of the turbine wheel broke? It would feels like that.
  16. Thats all the information sent by the customer. Its a manual stock 1JZ VVTi Gear box. So not sure if KM/28 * 100 rule applies. If so that would be 20psi by 3700RPM which is similar to the OP6 high flow. Thats the basic high flow, I would expect it to be pretty responsive.
  17. As for people who's interested in our 1JZ VVT CT15B high flowed result: Above is off a unopened Manual 1JZGTE with factory exhaust manifold.
  18. Thanks for the feedback. We are in the process of designing few new machined comp wheels. Will have a new series of Ceramic BB turbos with machined comp wheel soon.
  19. That noise is form your engine head. If oil change doesn't help check those hydraulic lifters. I would recommend Motul Turbo light 4100 engine oil.
  20. I think its a mocked up KKR430 sort of a turbo. Photos would help.
  21. The only turbo that I would build for a street driven SR20det would be using a 2871R CHRA or a equivalent ATR28G2 in .64 turbine. GT30 turbine is noticeably laggier unless greater torque is more important. You can machine little bit off the inducer from the comp wheel which would give you bit more power up top. The GTRS wheel has 9 fins wile the S15 has 11 fins. The difference is larger in inducer and blade gapping. The GT2860RS would produces similar power as a normal T28 with more torque.
  22. housing is $400 including machinery work and the Plate that blocks off the wastegate whole. I will need your turbo for a day.
  23. Thanks for another member sending in his footage with an ATR43G3 in .82 turbine running Vipec ECU. 298rwkws with VCT always off and 285rwkws with always VCT on. Not sure how that ECU system worked.
  24. Test car's got engine head problems. Power curve is not responding correctly to tune change due to valve bounce. I will do another run after head reconditioning and get some overplayed sheets with more accurate results then. Also As far as I can seen I don't really think I can get any thing more responsive then Abe's in this size. Its not about the bearings, its about the surge pressure acting against the large flake of the blades. That slows the shaft speed till the turbine wheel produces more torque. Need to get the anti surge slots working or reduce the size of the blade for more response.
  25. Duel ceramic Ball bearing ATR43G3 Prototype 2 R33 RB25det fully stock head and forged bottom. 800cc injectors Nistune ECU Z32 AFM 600x300x75mm FMIC 3inch turbo back exhaust 4inch intake pipe with pod. 98 Fuel. Power curve of last two runs. (car's developed a valve bounce issue) Boost
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