hypergear

The cost to high flow is $960 inc GST and braided oil feeding line. Every thing bolt back on. The cheapest ECU option would be getting a Nistune ECU installed and you need a set of at least 550cc injectors and a Z32 AFM. Will get you 230rwkws with 14psi of boost. With The Nistune ECU you can order direct from Matt on: [email protected] its $350 installed. Some of your local tuners can also install it as a package with the tune. Also some update with my engine build: The engine build has been complete and it is now back into the car. How ever it floods it self every time I crank. I guess I have to toll it to Sam to play with the map. Not having much luck with it this time.

Just high flow your stock turbo with a Garrett 2860RS core or similar. Which basically turn it into a 2530. That works pretty well with RB20det engines.

Its not going to work with just actuator. Tubine housing is too small. Which results very high exhaust manifold pressure. When manifold pressure > Actuator spring load = pressure forced open wastegate = boost drop. Force = Pressure x Area We spent lot of time investigating this problem and there are 2x solutions this problem. Type 1: fixed Force which is same as using a ultra high pressure actuator. This resulted massive boost spike at certain conditions. Type 2 which we currently using is made to reduce Area. That worked out very well by giving a very nice creep up top. Also depending on the combination of turbo that you've got. Not all turbos produces more power with more boost.

lol how many liters of oil does your catch can hold?

It will need brand new CHRA if wheels are broken. for a brand new Garret BB CHRA you will be looking around $1100. Or we can build you a sleeve bearing CHRA in idential spec for $800.

too much crank case pressure I guess. normally happens when rings are tired.

Just out of curiosity. Did you end up doing it?

Its a 71mm To4B comp with 1.15 T04E turbine with back crop. Its not good for any thing. The comp is too small for that sort of turbine, will create heaps of lag for little power. Its not going to work well on a RB25det. Specially with cropped turine in a 1.15 A/R Turbine . lol it will feels like down grading back to NA. We can build you some thing makes more power with heaps better response if interested.

Thats just oil coat burning off the casting. Pretty normal.

Thats normal for o2 sensors to jump around. If it doesn't jump means its dead.

From memory you had to swap few wires. PM STATUS he should be able to help you out.

We can machine your OP6 housings to suit a Garrett GT2860RS Disco core which makes it very similar to a HKS2530. Would max around 220rwkws with plenty of response on road. Since its a .63 rear you also might want to use a 52T GT2871R CHRA, which gives that little bit of extra power and torque.

Another update: This is a OP6 high flow that we did for a customer's R33 (none Neo engine) earlier using our updated turbine wheel. It made 241rwkws at 15psi full boost by 3450RPMs with 98 fuel. I'm pretty happy with it, Dyno sheet showing results of tuned maps before and after high flow. It made more power every where without more lag. The other thing that I'm pleased with is the power curve which sits lot more gradual instead of linear. So the wheels will be able to convert lot more of those energy onto acceleration momentum.

This sounds like a throttle position sensor or AFM issue. But more towards throttle position sensor. Or unless if you have a really really dirty fuel tank. Which dirt clogs up the pump or fuel filter casing inconsistent fuel pressure. You fuel pump would sound very loud when that happens.

Can you define "surging" in detail? in terms of your car's behavior when this happens.

If you get a Buzzz ..z zzz z.zzz sort of bearing noise on vehicle power off. It could be bearing noise. Which means they needs replacing.

All engines has blow by. You means signs of excessive blow by or indication of engine failure? If that is the case: Lots of oil throwing out of breathers, Poor engine compression, Engine noise, oil soaked spark plugs and etc.

If its just been complianced there are few of things to be done: 1. Install a front mount cooler (we can supply). 2. Install a strong clutch (recommend Xtreme clutch kits at Ace Brakes ) if your is stock. 3. Install a full 3inch turbo back exhaust with a honeycomb cat. (JSA are Xforce dealers they should have plenty). 4. Get a set of 550cc / 700cc injectors (Try Cjmotors). 5. Get a Z32 AFM. Try Japart or see if JSA's got one. 6. Get a 3inch metal induction pipe made up (Try Glenroy exhaust) and get your self a good pod filter. 7. Get a PFC or Z32 ECU with Nistune chip (You can get that done at my recommended tuners). 8. Bring pass your stock turbo and have a chat, we have few different profiles and turbine housings to choice from. 9. With few hours of Dyno time at Dr.drift or Status your car would be pretty sweet to drive.

Remove the engine breather out of the intake pipe and see if oil clears away. If not check oil drain and turbo shaft play.

For only 200rwkws with best response its probably better to just get a good 2nd hand RB25Neo turbo or a 2nd hand HKS2530. To fit this turbo you need custom manifold, dump pipe and all lines. We can modify its housings to suit Stock Rb20det. How ever probably not worth that money for the power.

If you run on Neo turbo with stock Bov on factory plumb back setup you obviously don't need to re-locate the AFM. But with larger turbo, after market bov and metal intake pipe you would consider to relocate it as the first component after the throttle body. Ie: Throttle body, AFM, BOV, Turbo, Intake pipe, Pod filter. Else you might find the car stalls after a turbo dose. I'm not sure if that can be tuned out with certain management systems. Hoo and by relocating AFM alone will not get you any extra power.

Well original goal of building this engine is not for that wow factor, I just need a very solid standard engine to evaluate max power out put on 98 fuel for all high flow profiles and bolton ATR43s. So Power vs Boost vs RPM would be identical with the same turbo on any standard RB25dets. This is also a None Neo motor, Neo engines would pickup better power and response. Results with fully moded head, cams, and manifold would be deceptive as no one else has the same mod. But I will get them to run with race fuel and Nos after the evaluation for abit of fun .

The compressor map with the standard high flow would be identical as: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...60-15comp_e.jpg Since its running the same size wheel in same size housing. Further updates: The ARP bolts, Bearings and full Gasket set cost $691. Engine come back horned and cleaned ($535). The job was abit rough thou, I spent hours buffing out the left over residuals from previous head gasket, Which I paid to get it cleaned. Any way: Engine block with pistons back in and head assembled:

They will be $950 per turbo. Need about a 4 days to get both done. Huge amount of engineering work involved, very time consuming.

Looks like a 82mm comp wheel. Its a custom build turbo trying to archive 600HP. The GT3582 would be lot more responsive. Its going to be very laggy to run on a RB25det. Probably good for a 3L+ engine.