hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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Its a TO4E with in .84 split pulse turbine housing with a Cropped turbine wheel. I can't see your comp wheel, but they comes out of factory with a 76mm 56T tall wheel that is rated to about 500HP. Its very laggy even with standard turbine wheel, its going to be even laggier with the crop. I'd say it will hit 20psi around 5500RPMs with plenty of torque.
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Engine block's been sent away to Reflex engine services. Its going to cost $260 to re-bore all 6 cyc with block thermo bathed. Engine head cost $250 to trim and bath. Also for people whom owns a pair of CT12a Powered 1JZ Soarers. We can high flow them to 2860rs Disco CHRA specifications in sleeve bearing: -
Further updates: Apart from turbochargers our engineers are also dedicated in to engine building, how ever I'll not provide this service to the public. I will show every one how it’s done and costs involved. Any useful advise is welcomed. Primary goal: This engine will be used for our turbocharger evaluation pusposes, My goal is 350rwkws. This engine will be built with stock cams using forged pistons only, so Power vs Boost generated from it would be identical to any other healthy standard RB25dets. Engine: 96 model RB25det engine bought from local wrecker. An hour later its in bits: Cracked piston in cyc 6. But bore seems to be in ok condition I’ll be using forged CP 20 thou over sized RB25det pistons with rings and pins. The piston set cost $1150 AUD.
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I haven't had any customers using OP6 high flows on RB20det yet so I can't give you an exact figure. I would say roughly 230rwkws.
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Well I don't think they can over speed on 20psi. How ever can fail due to oil contamination which wears bearings, increase tolerance, resulting in shaft play and vibration at high speed. Wheel contact occurs once shaft movement exceed its housing clearance. At high speed it breaks both wheels and bend turbine shaft. Or if you don't have a BOV high surge pressure can also twist the shaft.
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Peak power was around 7000RPM. Check the 2nd run with people in the boot. Power rise till red line, the curve is very similar to the 268rwkws run with restrictive intake and the 316rwkws run on with the sil180. car was not strapped with wheel spin, Reved to 7000RPM as usual.
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Installation information with photos are in page 39. cheers.
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I had 21psi by 4100RPM. its drives very nice and pulls hard on the road.
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Another small update: Still remember this ATR43G3 unit with .82 turbine and .70 comp? Got it dyno tuned today, car mad 298.5rwkws on 21psi with miss-fire. Only done 2 runs, car miss-fired very bad after, we changed plugs cleaned coils and nothing helped. I will give another try with splitfire coils in few weeks. I didn't grab the dynosheet this time. But dyno footage with 3 people in the boot is worth to look at: (click on photo below to watch that video footage) Also my engine comp shown: 130, 125, 125, 120, 125, 119 Next run will be with a new forged engine
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What Could Be Causing Lack Of Power?
hypergear replied to Ruffels's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I found this car's abit strange. Its running a .63 high flow, same profile has pulled 260rwkws on another RB25det, infact same turbo on a RB20 also made 260rwkws. I also run a .63 rear with same profile pulled run after run nothing turned red like this one did just after 1 run. The only way I can cool it down is using a .82 rear. which's been proven 260+rwkws on R33s. I will machine one for you comming week, If it doesn't work I really don't know whats the go with it. -
You get full boost by 4300RPMs with RB25det using .82. It pulls lot harder. If your purposes of buying this turbo is for mild power street use the .63 is fine, But it does get really hot under high boost if you use it for drifting or tracking.
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This was with a G2 in .63, My engine blew up on dyno during the next run. Even thou that made the power and response, I still prefer .82 for high performance RB25det. unless if that was a 3576 profile. .63 works out ok on RB20dets. You find Rb25det with .82 rear makes power lot easier with less boost and lot less heat.
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You need .82 for RB25s. will max around 300rwkws.
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Depending on the engine size, for 1000HP you will need a 1.2 A/R turbine housing, and 87mm 85T turbine wheel. The T04Z runns of a 74mm 76T turbine wheel which is rated to 700HP, so it needs to go up in size. Either way its not a cheap exercise so unless your T04Z is blown, its probably worth selling it and buy the T51R which we can supply at a very reasonable price.
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Every thing fits the way it was, they are still your OEM housings. The T2x bearing housing is few mms short. But it doesn't affect installation.
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Have to modify toyota housings to suit Garrett bearing housing first, then profile them to suit larger wheels. They can be high flowed to some thing close to a 2060rs disco. you will need new water and oil lines once done. Very similar to this:
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Can possibly high flow it with a BDR351 Comp wheel working with GT45 turbine wheel. Should pump out 1200HP. What sort of housing is it in?
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Naa looks like the turbo's can't suck in any more air out of stock induction pipe and air box. This turbo should be able to make a healthy 280rwkws.
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Small update. This is from a customer's skyline running ATR43G2 in our .82 bolton turbine housing with restrictive intake pipe and stock airbox which resulted in boost drop. Not the best but I think its still a good overall result in comparing power curve with some of the OP6 high flows, and the power band still rises at 7000RPM, will make lot more power with a free flow 3inch metal intake pipe and a pod filter.
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Nope. Unless Variable A/R turbine housing is made to work, this turbo is too small for a RB engine.
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Using standard turbine housing and factory actuator you will experience a boost drop to 15psi at 7000RPMs. With wastegate controller and a high pressure actuator you can hold it on what ever psi you want to 7000RPMs.
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I think the OP got abit confused. The OEM housings is in .63 which is the OP6, the next one up is in .82. I'm confident that the OEM .63 housing can push out around 260rwkws, but if the power goal is higher then it is definitely better to go for the .82 rear. You find it makes power lot easier using less boost, with better torque and lot less heat. The down side is .63 is more responsive, while .82 is laggier, So if its a every day car its probably worth going for the standard high flow, But if this car serves most of its life on tracks then the .82 is definitely better. So three things should be put into consideration: 1. In future will I want more then 260rwkws. 2. What is my purpose of building this car. 3. Would I prefer the current driving ability with mid-low power range (ie Very aggressive with 1st, 2nd and low 3rd gear.) or some thing with hug mid-high power range (ie very aggressive on 4500RPM+ 2nd, 3rd and 4th). I've got few dyno sheets on my thread, Please have a read which will be very helpful to your decision.
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Guys I would like to keep this thread clean with information on turbo profiles and results only. My diagram is not up to spec, just simply drawing so people get the idea. Please do so if you would like to draw a more detailed and specific diagram. No more arguments about the drawing. Thank you all. Please let me know if any one's welling to evaluate the new turbine wheel. Free dyno tune at Dr.drift for people with adequate mods.
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I'm not going to argue with the interpretation. This issue have been arose before, This diagrams explain the very nature of the problem.
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That was just a basic diagram so every one can understand what happens in there. Diagram is not upto scale. A 2.3inch pipe does not flow any better then a 2.5 or 3 inch pipe. Simple as that.
