hypergear

Some updates. I've made a new type custom turbine wheel aimed for power incensement with OEM turbine housings. Its expected to gain HP by roughly 10%。 Let me know if you are interested to try them out. I will pay for your tune at Dr.drift. You must have a fully working car with all supporting mods including ECU, injectors, Z32 AFM, 3inch turbo back exhaust and a metal intake pipe. Also I want to make a note for people who's currently running this type of split dump pipes: First of all the divider isolates the internal gate area which the gate flap does not open to a full 90 degrees. This result boost creep issues. Diagram not up to scale, just give you a basic idea of what happens. 2ndly the inner diameter is 2.3 inches with the split pipe plumbed back. Factory dump has 2.5 inches inner diameter. In another word factory dump would flow better then above, it will create exhaust flow restrictions resulting high back pressure and high exhaust manifold temperture affecting overall power output. For the best results please run a 3inch turbo back pipe or a bell mouth dump with 3inch front pipe.

We can supply the turbo and Tail gate, PM if you are interested.

Yes very interested. Can you drop it off to our factory in Campbellfield? Like I said only welling to pay $55, and only interested in Blown once.

First of all this is just a friendly discussion about highflow profiles, I'm not trying to insult any one else who is in the business and hope you are all reading it with the same manner. The all overall solution might help to produce a even better high flowed unit or a better combination for future customers. Looks like every one's got their own opinion about high flows. I believe the current GCG high flows runs of GT3071's 56T 71mm spec comp wheel with a Cropped TA34 turbine. and I'm taking about the Same comp with GT30 turbine. The main agenda is on the turbine profile which needs to work with a restricted OEM housing, the better flow the more power. The GT30 turbine wheel compare to a TA34 Cropped turbine wheel. The GT30 wheel produced 20kws more at 4000RPMs while still making the same top end, and that is very noticeable difference in on road. The water lines and etc are just all minion details which can be modified before assembly. Any way, as you stated that GT30 profiles pickups better power and response which results in un-useable power band, I think that’s good enough reason for to sticking with that.

GT3071 56T or GT3076 52T is the best possibly solution. One's rated to 450HP and the other's rated to 480HP. They are not rated to 500~550HP and you are only thinking about the 76mm 56T or larger trims which the factory comp housing run out of materials The dynamic of the GT30 turbine wheel is lot better then the older style of TA34 crop, in terms of: 1. Taller inducer area: resulting better turbo response and greater exhaust flow. 2. smaller inducer dia, less turbine fins: resulting less overall weight, contributing to response. 3. Larger gaps between fins: resulting better exhaust flow less back pressure. and I'm very sure that you are fully aware of that. the Higher flow rated turbine wheel the better it is for high powered high flow applications as you are dealing with a very restrictive turbine housing. on Road the GT30 turbine wheel comes in earlier and provides lot smoother power delivery. I'm not interested if we get the deal. But the OP needs to have the correct correspondence and best recommendation to his solution.

The GT3071 450HP or GT3076 52T 480HP is the better CHRA profile for OP6 factory housings and a common high flow profile. It will produces better response as well as smoother power delivery compare to 450HP traditional TA34 cropped turbine wheel 71mm comp wheels. Do a compare in the dynosheet section and you will find out. The person whom mentioned a "butchered turbo" doesn't intact know what it is or much about highflowing. While my advise is based on solid evidence.

That is a high flow using GT3076 BB CHRA, Basically machine your factory housings to suit it. it will produce about 260rwkws after a decent tune. Once high flowed every thing bolts back, no modifications required. We can carry out this service at a very decent cost.

That point is precisely 3mms with .5 bar actuators. Try it your self if you don't believe it .

Just get your turbo high flowed, fuel pump and a ECU. stock injectors are ok for 230rwkws.

I will be recommending GT2860RS Discos in .64 turbine and .60 comp. or high flowing your stock turbo to the same spec if you want abit more response.

Hopefully every thing works out and your car makes more decent good power. Did your tuner take advantage of the wastegate controller?

As listed want to buy blown R33 or R34 GTST RB25det / Neo turbochargers only. Welling to pay $55 each including shipping. Cash / bank deposit paid upon delivery. Please PM or call 0413457185 if you have one for sale.

Cheap way is just to cut off the metal line and replace the mid section with abit of good rubber hose and clamps.

What I've found that low power out put generally associated to the manner of how car owners wanted to modify their cars we well as the government regulations that every one have to obey. Performance of a turbo mainly consist of: Flow capacity. The more cool air you can get in, and more hot air to get out the better the performance. I think you've got a exhaust related restriction as hot air can not be dispatched fast enough so it stays in your combustion chamber causing detonations. (cat restriction?) Install a 3inch metal intake pipe with a good pod filter and a 3inch turbo back exhaust with no cat. Assume your engine condition is good enough with a reasonable tune and good fuel you will get the expected power level.

They would normally be set at 7psi. the average pre-load should have on the actautor is 3mms. You then need to use a boost controller to increase overall boost sittings.

I can machine you one. PM me with a photo of it if you want.

With this specific profile. full boost around 4500RPMs. at 18psi and a good tune should see some where around 270~290rwkws.

I've modified that rear housing alittle since tuner mentioned it was too hot. Should have more chance of hitting 300rwkws now with a larger turbine housing. Just depending on how hard he wants to push the car.

Few local tuners advised smaller CHRAs in larger housings enables them with better efficiency while maintain similar response. For a weekend project, I've decided to modify and install one of my current ATR43G3s to run on .70 comp and .82 turbine. I've taken some photos for people who's interested to see how things were done. First stage is casting. This is the stage of a comp / turbine housing when it was first delivered to our factory. Surface profile to suit back plate and comp wheel: Test fit: Clean up: Drill pressure plate pattern: Fitted to turbo: Big thanks to a member who came and gave me a hand on installation. It was difficult to fit using stock manifold due to limited engine bay room, and the first problem was the actuator bracket not been able to fit into the engine bay. After making custom actuator bracket we've managed to fit the turbo in, a 12mm spacer was required to space out the comp housing from exhaust manifold. There are 2x brackets holding factory water lines, they must be released before bending them to reach the CHRA (mainly due to the spacer) Dump pipe was easy. Braided oil feeding line goes to engine block: Looking all good: For cooler piping plumbing, I've used a 2.5inch 90 degrees bend and a 3inch long 2.5 metal pipe. The Power steering fluid bottle had to be re-located: Pod filter goes on: and job is done. After going for a quick spin, I've noticed the turbo made louder suction noise (lol). and power delivery was lot more smoother compare to smaller .60 / .63 housings. Full boost of 24psi is at about 4200RPMs, very noticeable amount of pull sensation after 4500RPMs. Will get it tuned shortly with results, If better then standard I will update this combination into the current G3 profiles. I’m expecting around 310rwkws.

Should've got all the parts before the tune. Generally you need: 550cc injectors Z32 AFM Boost controller 3inch metal inake pipe with good pod filter 3inch exhaust with Honey con cat High flowed turbo Strong clutch fule pump Nistune or better ECU Feed it with BP ulitmate.

I had a xforce exhaust on my sil180. I replaced the its cat with a Meta cat (200 cell?) and it made 282rwkws fine. Every thing fitted ok. The only thing bad is its too loud (none varix) if that was for road use. I drove it from NSWs to Melbourne, It made my ears ring bells for the whole evening. Got pulled over and EPAed, that cop said I was heard from 500 meters away lol. I've installed a HKS silent power cat back after that. It was lot quieter (like 5 times not exaggerating.)

Get a 3inch half meter long pipe, 1x 3 to 2.5 inch 45 degrees reducer, and a pod filter. Remove all the crap that is connected to factory intake pipe: BOV metal pipe and breather metal pipe. (lol funny how Nissan makes metal bov and breather pipes) Connect the reducer to the turbo, 3inch metal pipe to reducer, pod filter to metal pipe. Then: Move your AFM to cooler pipe, and BOV before the AFM. If you do want to use stock BOV you need to connect a one way valve in the vacuum hose that connects to it. With the breather just run a rubber hose and connect it to a catch can. Job done.

naa its not some thing you can do at home. involves many procedures and man hours. engineering must be made perfect for it to work.

But you limiting topend power. For .63 rear 3576 is better. For 3582s it should be run on .82 rears on RB25det engines.

Well the restrictor is on stock oil feeding line. If its not drilled out then that might be a problem. Also is this the Ceramic BB units? If the wheels and shafts are in re-useable condition it shouldn't be too expansive to repair, other wise it could be very costly. Its best to speak/email to your supplier or manufacture for support, they should be able to assist you on repair.