hypergear

get a .82 rear housing and actuator. 270rwkws+. But good luck with sale.

Well we can upgrade steel wheels for $660 per turbo including Garrett 360 degrees thrust bearing kit installed and balanced. Or $880 high flowed to sleeve bearing -5 spec. Ball bearing -5 is $1250 per turbo brand new with actuator. -7 is $1320 per turbo Brand new with actuator. We don't currently stock -9s but will be able to supply them are a very reasonable price. Also working with a 15 ~ 20 years old engine, I don't really find BB turbos are that reliable unless you run in line filters through them. 60% of total amount of turbos came in for overhauls are ball bearing turbos, and the age of them are also lot younger. Garrett BB CHRAs got 2x 20thou pin hole for oil feeding, once they are blocked your turbo is dead. This is a problem, I think this is some thing Garrett needs to think about in their coming designs.

Stock GTR turbos are sleeve bearing. I Actually recommend you to have your ceramic turbine wheel replaced rebalanced with steel wheel plus 360degrees performance bearings and seals installed. Our charge for above it is $660 (inc GST) per-turbo.

I'll get another one measured up to swap the one you have. It is strongly recommended that if you do run a external gate. I found external gates holds boost lot more steady. I will inform you tomorrow when I get the Vband checked.

HI John: Great to get some track side feedbacks. With bigger and heavier steel wheels it will obviously be laggier. Its a turbo so can't get both power and response on the same hit. I understand that you are racing in stock class, But I'm not sure if OP6 R34 turbine housing is classified as aftermarket upgrade. Strongly recommended if If not, that would give an extra 40Mn of torque, and with injectors (not for your current class) should see 260rwkws.

Some photos of a fresh built ATR43G4 in .50 Comp with .82 rear. 600HP rated (Looks similar to CN KKR but very different ) . This will bolt on to stock Rb25's manifold and dump. Generic actuator is likely to have problems holding high boost on RB25det. We are intergrating an 38mm external gate into it for greater boost control. I will post up photos of it as we move along.

.63 and .82 6 RB25det bolt on rear turbine housing is available. $350 with high flow or $500 retail.

Thats too hot man. you won't get a very good reading at a 41 degrees day. Try again at a 15~20 degrees day you will see lot better power.

All balanced individual pieces doesn't really mean it will be balanced once assembled as a whole. It must be re-balanced if you are putting a new comp wheel on.

I don't think stock turbine housing can be high flowed to archeive 250rwkws on RB20 thou, ATR43G4 (3582 spec) CHRA in a .82 rear internally gated should be more then enough to make 250rwkws with supporting mods. Stock internals should be able to do the job with out much issues.

Some small leaks in the vacuum system, or some small and spiky materials on front of the turbo vibrating. If the sound do gets louder, none above issues were found and you are experiencing lose of power then that would likely be a turbo issue.

Is any one interested to purchase a evaluation unit of ATR43G4? its in identical spec as a 3582R in .82 bolton rear housing internally gated. I will do one unit only for $1500 with oil feeding line, and I will refund $400 after receiving its dyno reading. The car must be good enough to run on 20psi of boost with supporting mods. Perferred Melbournese, and dyno tunned by Status or Phase Auto.

Good day. For the best result the .82 rear housing is recommended working with a ATR43G2/3 CHRA on a RB25det. It is noticably laggier compare to a .63 rear housing, but it will be able to hold steady boost to red line. The .63 is be able to get you over 330rwhp (250rwkws+) with similar response to a stock turbo. How ever it is not capable of holding high boost. you will find it always drops to about 17 psi towards red line unless you run an external gate. I've tested it my self and done lot of reading through forums and webs, and I've seen this happening to all GT30x .63 internally gated turbos. Personally I would recommend you to run a ATR28G2/3 with .82 rear housing, even there is little bit of lag down low it will still produce plenty of torque to give you this hard pull sensation. and when do have better mods you can get power just by increasing boost level. Ps. Crans in case you are reading this post. I've sent you a ATR28G4 with .82 rear housing instead of .63 as you were after 280rwkws+. Also like to add one more thing. Our ATR43's .82 rear housing has T3 flange and 6x bolt pattern dump for OEM R33 upgrade. This can also be purchased with any high flow options for $350 additional. Or $500 for any one who wants to upgrade from smaller rear housings.

Might be very slight difference, But appears to me they are pretty identical. We make custom bolton .63 rear housings with 3071R 52T sleeve bearing CHRAs using stock RB20det turbo's comp housing. It worked lot better.

We did this type of stuff for a customer earlier this year. We machine off the Mitsubishi flange and weld on a T3x flange then machine out the 4 bolt flange off the rear and weld on a OEM 6 bolt flange. Once that is done every thing bolt on with out modifications. Same thing can also be done to GT2860Rs which you turn that in to a HKS2530.

If you can send in the CHRA we can profile a .82 internally gated rear housing to suit it that bolt on to your stock manifold and dump for $500. This housing is capable of holding 22psi of boost on internal gate.

The M18mm whole is for water and the M12 whole is for oil. Oil feeding port must be facing up. If this is a Sleeve bearing turbo you must use a Dash 3 oil feeding line and fittings

Yea that needs to be pulled apart, have every thing sand blasted and cleaned, then put back together with new seals (new bearings too for sleeve bearing setup). Once the CHRA is ready then we need to get the right A/R turbine housing and machine that to suit the new turbine wheel. Not really complicated but little bit of work involved.

Yes the bigger turbine housing will make more power and better torque, But you lose some response down low. Extra volume will also reduce turbine housing pressure which also allows you to run extra few pound of boost specially for internally gated setups.

We can build you an identical spec sleeve bearing version of 2530 for about $1450 with oil line. Its ok for up to 230rwkws with super fast response. or we can sale you a high flowed R33 turbo for $1180 with oil line. should do similar sort of HP with slight less response.

Flargh: You only need to lose up the 6 bolts under the comp housing. Then rotate it by very slight. then it should be fine. Geraus to get 250rwkws you will need to run it on a OP6, or .63 rear housing. Or I can crop abit of the turbine wheel for better flow. We also have .82 rear housings with the same bolt up pattern which I'm putting one on as we speak.

or put a vented bonnet on. It also helps.

Check for shaft play, Check oil drain make sure its not blocked or kinked, Normally a turbo would leak from compressor side if its flooded. I'm happy to have a look at your turbo and quote, if you can come to Brunswick.

If you have in and out shaft play then it is the turbo. Or check oil drain pipe make sure its not kinked and engine is not over filled.

Plugs, loom connecting to the Coil packs and the earth wire to the coil packs (on the end of the loom close to 4th cyc).