hypergear

From What Matt (Nistune) told me that you can use any Z32 ECUs and swap pins to make it work with R33, they can do it for you if you can send a Z32 ECU over. My current one is a Z32 TT ECU with pin alterations.

Waoo, How did you manage to do that. lol. thats some very hard metal. Pulling the rust jammed bearing housing out of the stock turbine housing with a ceramic wheel can be very challenging, Normally the wheel would break through the shock when you are trying to hammer or get them apart. My suggestion is to actually machine out of the stock T3x turbine flange and weld in a new one without pulling any bits of it apart. Try your local machinery shops. If no one wants to do it we can have it done for $200.

I had this problem before. Mine was a timing belt issue. It got lose and skiped 1 tooth.

Thanks for the support. I Probably go to status with the new R33 S2 in few weeks. I won't be taking my current R33's result very seriously, this engine's knocking with poor compression. Also this Fluctuating RPM probably indicated huge amount of blow by.

In General if there is a high pitch sound normally means air is traveling out of a small whole and causing the materials around it to vibrate. remove intake pipe and have a look to see if there are any pointy bits on it. Inspect the comp wheel and have a feel of the shaft, and check all the silicon hoses to see if any of them got a leak.

With the top end. I'm suspecting that is due to the exhaust housing maxing out, or might be some thing to do with the actual engine. floor 4th gear the RPM fluctuated its way from 5500 RPM to 7000RPM. But it does not fluctuate on neutral. I’m not sure if all my boost were turned into blow by.

To Get about 260~270rwkws we can machine your stock comp and OP6 turbine housing then use ATR28G3 CHRA with a ATR28G3 with a cropped turbine and 14psi actuator. That should be ok for up to 270rwkws assume your Auto can hold it. To do that it will cost $800 + $150 Turbine wheel modifications and actuator + $80 braided oil ine + GST = $1133 we will need roughly 5 days on it. With ATR43 .63 turbine you can get similar power without having to crop the turbine wheel which get you lot better response. To high flow with the cost of turbine housing is $1230 + GST = $1353 including oil feeding line Here's one with RPM in it (transferred the scale from Dr.drift's dynosheet): Unfortunately the Boost analyzer at Phase auto got run over by a customer's car and currently broken. I have a sheet from Trent last week.:

hoo in this case assume shaft and housings are ok to re-use. We normally charge $440 for a set of Garrett 360 degrees bearing kit fitted and balanced. You still need to send turbo in to do that thou.

Yes we make that. you need to send in your turbine housing for us to measurements. PM if interested.

My last R32 was in 06. The ATR43G3 has been installed on this R33 for few weeks now.

I Just tested mine today. With .63 rear and 76mm comp. managed 273rwkws with a pretty poor conditioned engine. probably be picking up another 15KWs if engine had better compression. But if you are going for bigger power you need to put that setup in a .82 housing. If you want it high flowed with steel wheels we can do it for $880 + GST but you need to send it to Melbourne. Or try your local MTQs.

First of all Big Thanks to Nick at Phase Auto in Campbellfield for trouble shooting and tuning. After the few dyno runs he spotted the electrical fault, and issue was fixed. Dyno results below are based on BP 98 Fuel. This would be the first set of data for the ATR43 G3 .63 Internally gated. Today's result was abit average, taken consideration my engine compression is below 122psi. People with better engines should be able to make another 10~15KWs. The turbo is pretty responsive, it was set to 19psi and it dropped to 17psi after 6000RPM. I'm going to do another run with .82 rear housing and compare results before cropping turbine wheel. First set is Dr.drift remap with stock injectors and stock turbo back in May 09 Which made 205rwkws on 13psi of boost and stock ECU running 13psi of boost. The Stock turbo had half of turbine wheel missing when I purchased this car. This is the ATR43G3 .63 14psi actuator. It run 19psi and set off at 17psi after 6000RPM. Compare data with Dr.drift's remap and factory map with stock turbo.:

Trent has been very helpful. I have nothing against them. I was disappointed as I didn't get result I was expecting from the actual car instead found all those problems. Turbo spooled nice, early and held boost fine which is a good thing. Any way, I'm in a process of buying a 96 Spec II R33 as my next ginny cop (why's word pi g kept turning into cop?). going to check it inside out before purchase. For me buying a cheap, aged, crappy looking car and believed the the little pricks its going to perform is just very wrong.

Trent said he spent 4 hours on my car and can't fix. I'm Very disappointed with the out come. I'm going to put it back to stock get rid of it and get another R33 or R34 that works better. Turbo seems to be holding boost fine, There're no signs of dropping off like the stock housings did, and its pretty responsive on the road. But here's a copy of the boost curve: With the Powered up option basically what we do is taking about 12 degrees off the turbine wheel, So it can flow more but you lose some response Pre-4000 RPM. I'm working on custom shaft at moment which is made to balance out the lag and top better.

Anthony tunned my Sil180 about 5 years ago. made 183rwkws out of a full stock CA even with stock intercooler using MT8 ECU. Did costed me $2500 for the tune but I havne't seen any one else whom managed to do that. He's probably the best man for Microtech systems.

Depends on how bad the turbine shaft is. In most of the time its the ring grove that wears. That could be sleeved and re cut pretty cheaply. and even it is bent we have machines to make it straight. But if the fins are broken or gone then that can not be re-used.

The Fuel Gauge reads off a plate that is attached to the end of your fuel lever in the tank. if that is not contacting or bent it will read funny. Assume the ECU is good. The factory tune in it wouldn't change. If you are using a remapped or programmable chip in it then it could be in the chip. I had the same issue with my CA sil180 as the tune kept altering it self and it tuned out to be corrupted data in the chip.

To overhaul the turbo with original Garrett Ball bearing bit is $700. And a comp wheel is $180. slap every thing together and you are back on the road. The turbine shaft is the most expansive part, depends on the part No. They cost aorund $300. The Oil out put volume is fine for BB CHRAs. They don't needs much oil to run, But the oil that goes into it needs to be very clean.

Well since GCG build your turbo its probably good idea to work some thing out with them. If you can't work things out, and assume it is a Garrett BB CHRA that is in it and your turbine wheel is not broken we should be able to overhaul it for you in its original Ball bearing form for lot less then $1200. Also for our sleeve bearing units. Well it is cheaper to build, and I believe this is still the most reliable setup for aged engines. I still get full boost at 3500RPM out of our 520HP Turbo. We've lighted the shaft and modified the bearings for minimum friction, its not really the same as the older Garrett's sleeve setups.

Yes, the glue normally gets crushed into the drain pipe and blocks it up. Also I like to update that Powered Up options for, 2IU, OP6 and .63 ATR43 turbine housings is now available. It can increase about 15~20KWs in between 4000~6000RPM but will lose about 20% in response pre-4000RPM. This option cost $150 Additional on top of the $800 plus GST. and comes with a 14psi Actuator.

It is very important that you must use the hollow screw supplied. Not your stock oil feeding screw. Also do not use silicon glue on the buttom of the drain flange.

This end goes to your engine. You have a black hollow screw in the box which goes into the turbo.

Yes I have the .63 rear housing.

Technically yes. Also compression test and it came up 120 145 120 125 125 130 Is this a average result for a Rb25det engine?

That is a sheet to show where the problem is. I'm sourcing information to fixthe car issue, so I could know what parts I need to replace and make life easier for Trent and my self next week. I should've never bought a cheap crappy looking car and trusted the previous owner that its mechanically A1. end up spending the heaps of $$$$ fixing bits and pieces, and now this f*ken engine is knocking. Here's the 226rwkws 10psi tune based on the same turbo on a healthy R33 if you like to see.