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Everything posted by hypergear
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Best Rb25 Turbo Upgrade For Drifting
hypergear replied to Cr@zY FreD's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
for $1800 we can make you a Garrett GT3071R BB CHRA in a .63 Bolton housing in .60 A/R Comp with 14psi internal gated actuator. that would be pretty responsive for your power goal with good torque. -
To test the actuator simply blow air into it. If air do come out of it means the actuator diaframe is broken. Make sure the actuator do line up with the wastegate flap and the boost source that goes into it is not leaking. If above doesn’t work then you need to install a bigger wastegate flap and machine out the wastegate whole on the turbine housing.
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If they are 2nd hand ceramic turbos I suggest you to not do it. All the once that came in for high flow breaks its turbine wheel while we trying to hammer the turbine housing off with a cooper mallet. Most of them a rusted together, specially the once with oil leaks. Have to heat up the housing before hit them apart. Brand new once would come apart once they are unbolted.
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Rebuilding R34 Gtr Turbos With Steel Wheels
hypergear replied to No.96's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
mmm the GTRs turbine would work with a .49 rear fine. Even now Garrett still use them as upgrades on the 300zx and GTR OEM turbos. Putting a big comp wheel in to small housing will cause surge. But this wheel is not big enough to do that. It will still make reasonable power, in any twin turbo setup you can't have 100% efficiency out of a single turbo out of any housings you put in. any way, we can supply Garrett GTRS-5 for OEM GTR upgrade at $1250 each. So might want to pay abit more and get that with brand new housings and actuators instead. Depends on your buggdet -
ATR43 G1 is made to produce around 250rwkws. You should be able to get around that with stock cams around 20psi of boost on a RB20.
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For the RB20det It depends on turbo's profile. if you run G1 profile it would be very responsive on road. Should see boost around 3000RPM and get 20psi by 4600RPM.
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This is for some one that is interested in 300zx. This is a initial run with my 300zx test car running twin ATR25s at 18psi. Stock injectors has been maxed.
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Standard comp housing can be used on G1 and G2 profiles only. with this G3 profile I'm getting 13psi at 4000RPM. You probably get 20psi at 4500RPM. I guess for 300rwkws its not too bad. any one's got some cheap 550cc injectors for sale? PM me. Pickup only
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Just had a ATR43G3 installed on a test car. Some installation Notes: The turbo fits directly onto standard manifold, and dump pipe in exact position. How ever due to the larger diameter of .63 turbine housing, one factory water line that comes behind the engine (towards engine side) touches the turbine housing by very slight. To fix this just loosen up the hollow behind engine and alter the steel line few mms lower. On intake side. The ATR43's compressor out let is round in 2 inches and intake is round in 3 inches. There are plenty ways to adapt them onto pod filter and cooler pipings. I've just sleeve 2x rubber pipes to get the car back on road. Or you can send in your stock comp housing which requires no intake side fabrications when putting it back. Photos: Thing looks pretty standard. haven't had other mods put in yet. car felt like taken off on a jet. Will get fuel related mods and ecu. Hopefully seeing 300rwkws with stock cams and 98 fuel.
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Well there are 2x sorts of noises. one is a howling sound. This is common to BB turbos, and it gets very loud from time to time, then you have fins rubbing housings making a grinding noise, turbo stops function. You also get a small grinding alike bearing noise when power off your engine. If this is the case then the turbo needs to be taken out and looked at. The other sound is a high pitch whistling sound. This is generally due to air pass though a small gap. could be a leaking pipe, or any gaskets on the intake system.
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If it turns on to grinding noise it means bearing failure that causing wheels to eat in to housing. Normally due to oil contamination, insufficient oil pressure or flow. Normally BB turbos give that sort of noise before failing. Check for vacuum leaks.
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Ok. in this case the turbo would also be boosting as normal. Then just need to check to see where is leak air.
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ok. did you use the braided oil feeding line supplied? and is the turbo boosting and running as normal? If so then you need to check for air leaks.
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Opss I thought this is a SR20det T28. they got steel wheels from factory. If that is a Skyline turbo we can only high flow. which cost $880.
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Rebuilding R34 Gtr Turbos With Steel Wheels
hypergear replied to No.96's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Well. as soon as steel wheels are in. noticeably more lag. Drove N1 and Normal R32, defiantly be able to tell which one's what. Bigger turbine housing will help making more power with more lag, its only a 1.3L 3cyc engine per turbo. I think machine -5 to stock housing would be a less laggy option for up to 350rwkws (I've seen 345rwkws). -
Yes we can overhaul for $400 with Garrett 360 degrees thrust bearing kit. overhauled turbo will be able to handel lot more boost. Or we can high flow your current profile to a sleeve bearing GT2860 or 71 spec for $800.
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Video footage from Jambo race way last weekend. Chris's TR44 Powered 1JZ crowna. 315rwkws, Ran a PB of [email protected] with 1.67 60ft. Click to view footage Also like to add This is a 3 years old TR44. The current version will be able to pump out 330rwkws without Nos.
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This normally happens when the belt is wet.
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Can A Stock R33 Beat A Civic/integra Type R/s?
hypergear replied to Savin's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The Supra vs Civic video is interesting. Once again the Supra is a lot heavier car. Close friend owns a Civic Type R I dragged him with my 344rwkws CA18det Sil180 lol. If both cars are moving I drove pass him like he's stationary. From a red light I wasn't be able to over take till 3rd gear. -
Rebuilding R34 Gtr Turbos With Steel Wheels
hypergear replied to No.96's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Idential specification. In sleeve bearing. -
Chris how about I will machine you a ATR43 .63 Rear housing for half price of retail. Just see the amount of power gain with bigger housings as I don't currently have a Skyline to get those data my self. Also a Stock RB25Neo should've produced around 210rwkws on 14psi but only 175rwkws out of that dyno. So I guess it is possible the dyno did read out low.
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I really don't know why it didn't make power on yours. The CHRA that went into it all OP6 housings are idential. Also most of R33 2IU's people's high flow have made around 235rwkws mark. Status Hub dyno reads within 1 KWs to Mainland roller dynos. it can't be 50KWs off unless the dyno you went on actually read low. also Are you using BP or Mobile 98 fuel? Was your rubber intake pipe sucked shut on boost? Or clutch slip? The .63 rear housing that bolton to your stock manifold and dump cost $500 to make. I will need you to send the turbo back for its housing profile.
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With .63 will be looking at 20psi at around 4300RPM. But it will be able to flow lot more power. But either way OP6 rear housing is good enough to flow upto 260rwkws with 98 fuel and a decent tune.
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Hard to say. So far I've seen 256rwkws with OP6 Rear housing. and 235rwkws with R33's 2IU housing. We also have another way to high flow which can increase about 20HP more but trade away fair bit of response. Also one more thing I would like to address its funny that not all Turbos that came off a R34 had a OP6 rear housing on it, wither its been changed or came out OEM I don't know. You might want to check and make sure there is a OP6 stamp. This is a reading out of a OP6 housinged R34 Any way, we also have .63 Bolton housing available at this stage. If interested to upgrade please let me know.
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ATR28G4 and ATR43G3 is the same turbo. Except ATR43's has bolton turbine housings to suit OEM manifold and dump.